HP Tuners

I'm not familiar with the tuners myself, but here are a couple of old threads on this topic you can browse:
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...access-for-2005-2006-jeep-wrangler-tjs.16403/https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/97-06-jeep-wrangler-tj-ecu-pcm-tuning-options.13974/

1. Timing tables are pretty good until around 60 kPa. With stock timing on my 04 there was not really any point in going past 1/2 throttle and actually seemed to lose power at wot. Timing on the interstate was between 16 and 23 degrees. A lot of changes I made at low load and RPM I put back to stock and probably need to put the rest of the low load and RPM back to stock. I don't really have much for tuning at altitude. Your KOEO map is probably around 84 kPa in Aurora and around 70 kPa at 10,000 ft. I don't really see any reason the tune would be any different at higher elevations. You just would not ever use the column or 2 on your table.

2. Jeep 4.0s show high IATs for sure. I wonder if heat soak is showing manifold temp vs actual air temperature. It would be a good experiment to find an 1/8" npt IAT sensor with the same specs and use a plastic npt reducer to mount it in stock location to see if the IAC is being influenced by the hot aluminum intake. It is not uncommon in the hot months for me to see 170+ IATs at idle and 150 on the interstate. The aluminum intake intertwined with exhaust makes cool IATs tough. I am going to try to do some heat shielding on the bottom of the intake when I rebuild my motor. The LS platform uses plastic intakes that does really conduct heat like an aluminum intake.

It is true that timing tables are conservative, probably due to the lack of knock sensors). I've had good results both adding timing to the midrange and smoothing the timing table as there are a number of odd/abrupt transitions.

One other tip related to your IAT question is to look at the modifier tables (cold spark)and notice the amount of timing that is being pulled out at a given IAT. This can be cut in half. The other modifier tables such as Minimum Spark and Tip In should be look at as well.

One other tip is look at the Power Enrichment tab, particularly the delay settings. You realize that stock you need to be literally WOT for a decent amount of time (8seconds) before fuel enrichment even starts. Zeroing this delay and lowering the WOT voltage yields a noticeable result when you put your foot into it. There are a couple other settings to tweak but beyond these basics you'll probably need to look into a wideband O2.

Last- I have a wrapped intake tube with an aluminum heat sheild between the valve cover and tube ( same concept as what Brian mentioned). With the ducted outside air, my IAT runs fairly close (10-20 degrees) to ambient and any build dissipates quickly which is great on the street. Once crawling around, everything under the hood starts to heat soak and temps do climb. I've also experimented with relocated the IAT closer to the airbox in an effort to relieve heat soaking of the sensor with mixed results.

Google Windstar airbox

airbox relocation

@jjvw did temp readings.

My stock 4.0 is def peppier.

Agree with ceramic coating the manifolds. Keeps the heat in the exhaust pipe where it belongs.
Unfortunately the easiest way to gain hp is to remove all the electronics and put a carb on top. Even the stupid TV shows know to use a carb on the dino.

Goatman said:

Unfortunately the easiest way to gain hp is to remove all the electronics and put a carb on top. Even the stupid TV shows know to use a carb on the dino.

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You are hereby banned from any power adding discussions.


Does HPtuner have the ability to change the speedo calibration or disable CELs?

I have a SS SYE and no rear o2 sensors.

scottgraham said:

Google Windstar airbox

airbox relocation

@jjvw did temp readings.

My stock 4.0 is def peppier.
View attachment 154873

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With a wrapped Windstar and hood louvers, typical intake temps are between 10-70deg above ambient, depending on road speed and the direction of the wind.

I've driven in subzero temps and seen subzero intake temps.

whitrzac said:

You are hereby banned from any power adding discussions.


Does HPtuner have the ability to change the speedo calibration or disable CELs?

I have a SS SYE and no rear o2 sensors.

Click to expand...

Yes it can disable CELs. No to changing the speedo.

Rubihara443 said:

Hello All,
About a year ago, I purchased an LJ. Love the thing. It’s a Rubihara with the 6 speed manual. Found out yesterday I can write to the ECU with HP Tuners Pro. Had my daughter drive around last night so I could data log. Two things stuck out. 1: the tables are ultra conservative. 2: the intake air temps are really high. Has anyone had any luck wrapping the intake with anything to reduce intake temps? The temperature never dropped below 102 degrees even on long stretches of highway and would climb quickly to 117-120 when stopped at a light. Ambient was around 55 degrees. I flash gm trucks a lot and a 20 degree delta is about all you see. Also, does anyone have experience programming the 05-06s with HP Tuners? Any tips you can offer would be great. I will get there, but anything to reduce the learning curve would be great.
Thanks
MikeView attachment 154767

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Mike, I run a Banks cold air intake and see IAT equal to outside ambient air temp. Don't expect to see IAT on a stock system or any aftermarket intake that is sucking in under hood air ever be less than the under hood air temp.

Like Chris like to say, after market intakes are largely over rated.

Hoping this will allow me back....

There are several ceramic type coatings used on firearms today. Some even come in a spray can. Hundreds of color options too. This might be ideal to coat intake and exhaust manifolds to help lower engine bay temps.