What did you do to your TJ today?

I've seen it previously reported that using synthetic oil may cause leaks. The first picture is what mine looked like when I bought the Jeep and up until I changed the oil two months ago. It would drip pretty regularly on the ground. Not large amounts, but often enough to notice it on the driveway. The last oil change sticker from the previous owner showed synthetic had been used.

IMG_20200108_154548.jpg

I bought a box of conventional 10W-30 from Sam's Club. After changing it, I cleaned the area. I took the picture below today. Other than the minor wet spot in the middle, it looks pretty good after two months of daily driving. Plus I haven't really noticed any new oil spots on the ground.
IMG_20200707_063844.jpg
 
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il buono said:
I've seen it previously reported that using synthetic oil may cause leaks. The first picture is what mine looked like when I bought the Jeep and up until I changed the oil two months ago. It would drip pretty regularly on the ground. Not large amounts, but often enough to notice it on the driveway. The last oil change sticker from the previous owner showed synthetic had been used.

View attachment 175322
I bought a box of conventional 10W-30 from Sam's Club. After changing it, I cleaned the area. I took the picture below today. Other than the minor wet spot in the middle, it looks pretty good after two months of daily driving. Plus I haven't really noticed any new oil spots on the ground.
View attachment 175323
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Good observations, however, a few notes:
You are comparing an unknown number of years (possibly 15 years) of grime buildup to two months after a good cleaning.
That minor wet spot in the middle might well, over many months, cover the general area in oil and dirt.

As is often the case, it's a bit hard to make out from the pic; but it looks to me like you have some definite, though not excessive, leakage still occuring. I would check your valve cover gasket to see if there are any signs of it leaking there and replace if necessary. If not, you should consider the possibility that you have the early signs of a rear main seal leak and, in that case, should work on a plan for setting aside time to fix it. It's not a huge thing but it will incapacitate your TJ while your doing it...so, set aside at least two days in case something goes amiss.
 
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TJ Hunnicutt said:
Good observations, however, a few notes:
You are comparing an unknown number of years (possibly 15 years) of grime buildup to two months after a good cleaning.
That minor wet spot in the middle might well, over many months, cover the general area in oil and dirt.

As is often the case, it's a bit hard to make out from the pic; but it looks to me like you have some definite, though not excessive, leakage still occuring. I would check your valve cover gasket to see if there are any signs of it leaking there and replace if necessary. If not, you should consider the possibility that you have the early signs of a rear main seal leak and, in that case, should work on a plan for setting aside time to fix it. It's not a huge thing but it will incapacitate your TJ while your doing it...so, set aside at least two days in case something goes amiss.
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Yeah I definitely leaned towards the grime build up part with that photo. Even with the new photo still showing some leakage, the oil spots on the ground have basically stopped forming. That's where I noticed it more. I used to put a piece of carpet below that area, but it's no longer needed. I'll clean it again tomorrow and see what happens after I get some more miles on it.

Prior to doing the oil change, I was already interested in doing the valve cover gasket. From my previous inspection, it looked good, but I could've missed something from the end.
 
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Cool. Sounds like your change was for the better.

One other thing that is strictly my opinion; I would not use "high mileage" oil. Those contain chemicals intended to expand or swell seals so that they stop leaking. Unless you have a situation where you have a known leak and just want to "kick the can" down the road for a while before actually fixing the problem, these can cause an issue in that, if you (or the next owner) stops using them, then those same seals (and others) will "dry up" and shrink down to even smaller than what they were before, causing even nastier leaks. I try to stay away from any kind of "leak fix" remedies other than just replacing the leaking seal. Unfortunately, the "high mileage" oil usually does not say "on the cover" what it does, just that "you should use it if your engine has over 75,000 miles". :rolleyes:
 
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TJ Hunnicutt said:
Cool. Sounds like your change was for the better.

One other thing that is strictly my opinion; I would not use "high mileage" oil. Those contain chemicals intended to expand or swell seals so that they stop leaking. Unless you have a situation where you have a known leak and just want to "kick the can" down the road for a while before actually fixing the problem, these can cause an issue in that, if you (or the next owner) stops using them, then those same seals (and others) will "dry up" and shrink down to even smaller than what they were before, causing even nastier leaks. I try to stay away from any kind of "leak fix" remedies other than just replacing the leaking seal. Unfortunately, the "high mileage" oil usually does not say "on the cover" what it does, just that "you should use it if your engine has over 75,000 miles". :rolleyes:
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:rolleyes:
 
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Woah, boogie! Decaf, man, decaf!

From pennzoil.com about the PENNZOIL® HIGH MILEAGE MOTOR OIL, a conventional-base oil:
"Pennzoil® High Mileage motor oil is formulated with Active Cleansing Agents™. It is specially formulated to help stop leaks from seals and reduced oil consumption in worn engines. Because at Pennzoil we know, a cleaner, well sealed engine is better protected and responsive."

From Mobil.com...the blurbs on two of the four High Mileage oils they off specifically mention leak prevention:
Mobil Full Synthetic High Mileage -
"Helps protect worn seals and prevent leaks in high mileage engines."
Mobil Super™ High Mileage -
"Formulated for vehicles with more than 75,000 miles to combat sludge and prevent leaks"

From ChevronLubricants.com about Havoline® High Mileage:
"Synthetic blend motor oils designed to help extend the life of engines as their age and mileage increases. Deposit Shield® Technology protects against deposits and sludge while special anti-wear, cleaning and seal conditioning agents help minimize oil leaks.

From team.valvoline.com about HIGH MILEAGE with MaxLife Technology™ Synthetic Blend:
"Maximize the Life of Engines After 75,000 Miles
The original high mileage motor oil featuring MaxLife™ Technology
Synthetic blend formulation helps resist motor oil breakdown in tough conditions
Thick and durable layer of anti-wear film to prevent engine breakdown
Premium seal conditioners help treat and prevent leaks
Superior antioxidants resist breakdown in extreme conditions"

The Valvoline full synthetic HIGH MILEAGE has the exact same seal conditioner statement.

From royalpurple.com about their HMX oil:
"A properly formulated High Mileage oil like HMX will help reduce oil consumption and restore lost power. HMX is chemically enhanced to revitalize hardened seals reducing oil consumption common in higher mileage engines."

From shell.com about their Helix HX7 High Mileage oil:
"Synthetic technology motor oil – Helps to stop the ageing process in your engine.
  • Contains anti-wear agents to help protect engines and prolong engine life
  • Contains seal-conditioning additives to help reduce oil leakage and thus oil consumption
  • Faster oil flow for quicker engine warm-up"
Their HX5 High Mileage oil has the same "Contains seal-conditioning additives to help reduce oil leakage and thus oil consumption" statement.
 
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168 warm white LED Bulbs came in today. Replaced the driver's footwell light. Wow, what a difference! The OEM socket for the passenger side should be here Saturday. All these years I just thought Jeep didn't think the passenger being able to see anything when getting in was important, then I found the connector shoved up in the dash this week. 🤣 Haven't investigated how to get into the overhead light yet but will soon.

Dorman OEM style brake and clutch pedal pads came in today as well. Removed the PO's clutch and brake racing pedals while I was waiting on dinner to simmer 25 minutes. Have to clean the stobs (that must be one of my hillbilly words, because it's getting the red squiggle. 😆) off before putting the new pads on. OEM gas pedal is still on, but the racing gas pedal is slipped over it. Haven't quite figured that one out as far as removing it from the OEM pedal, and I didn't want dinner to scorch, so more on that later...
 
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Did a thorough cooling system flush a couple weeks ago and filled it back up with Zerex G-05 coolant. Checked it today and all is clear and clean 👍

Coolant two weeks ago
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Coolant today
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After I had been tortured for days by the USPS, the damn Metra speaker pigtails for my older Jensen speakers that I put into the soundbar FINALLY arrived. So now the rear speakers work. As I pretty much expected, they're not as sensitive as the new front "Kickers", but they're rated for far more power although that doesn't matter in this application. In any event, biasing the fader a bit towards the back balances the sound nicely, but its going to be a couple of months before I replace the head unit and can actually test everything with MY music.

For anyone wondering: No, I don't know the sensitivity rating of the Jensens. Its not marked on the speakers (although their 150w capacity is), I can't find it on the 'net anywhere, and I even asked Jensen who replied that the speakers were too old so they didn't know the spec either! But adjusting the fader on the crippled stock stereo rearward to about 4 of 10 balances the sound. Good enough!
 
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WHBNM said:
Replaced 3 front driveshaft u-joints. Vibration happening. View attachment 175449 Front one had some play, did'em all. Spicer 5-1310x times 3.
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I just tried rebuilding my rear drive shaft and discovered that the drive shaft was tweaked from wheeling. Ordered another Tom Woods and it just arrived today 👍

IMG_20200703_113233.jpg
 
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I finally pulled the trigger on some Currie front and rear bump stops and 4” springs, and some new Spicer ball joints. I also ordered a Jeep Air AC kit. The “free flowing air” I currently use while driving (top down, windows out 😂) has lead to a couple episodes of heat exhaustion due to the hot weather/humidity. Unfortunately the first place I purchased it from cancelled the order because the kit is apparently on backorder. The second place I ordered it from is saying it should be back in stock and available to ship by the end of the month. Fingers crossed!
 
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