04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build
- Thread starter B00mb00m
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OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Ya the swag break looks super useful. I want to get that and the portaband table.
Got out to my local park today. Soooo good. Belly clearance is noticeably better. I almost had to try to hit it. In fact the time I drug it I was also dragging driveshaft. Made an obstacle I couldn't last time due to bellying out.
Got out to my local park today. Soooo good. Belly clearance is noticeably better. I almost had to try to hit it. In fact the time I drug it I was also dragging driveshaft. Made an obstacle I couldn't last time due to bellying out.
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Got my 98GC hood vents in this weekend that I got from @Squatch. More and more j just want things to be a bit different than the normal. So I couldn't bring myself to buy a PS hood Louvre. I also like that the GC vents have pans considering the location I wanted to place the vents would drip on my TCM and fusebox.
Whelp, the first one was quite the learning experience. I massively fawked up and flipped my homemade template half way through. I salvaged and did things right on the second one. It went so smooth and easy and I even notches the pan and recreated water channels to keep most water off the TCM.
My positioning may seem a little strange but it was primarily due to extremely tight clearances to the hood from my fusebox and my TCM.
I also wanted to follow the heat map that was generated long time ago for tj hood heat which showed outside back as high heat locations.
The color is a Rust-Oleum hammer finish rattle can. I really like how it pairs with the OEM desert khaki. I am probably going to repaint my rear fenders rockers and bumper in this instead of black.
I moved the vents as far aft as possible and as far outboard as possible and put the lowest bolt right next to the hood support and right at the start of the hood bend. From there just aligned the angle of the vent to parallel the hood lines.
Whelp, the first one was quite the learning experience. I massively fawked up and flipped my homemade template half way through. I salvaged and did things right on the second one. It went so smooth and easy and I even notches the pan and recreated water channels to keep most water off the TCM.
My positioning may seem a little strange but it was primarily due to extremely tight clearances to the hood from my fusebox and my TCM.
I also wanted to follow the heat map that was generated long time ago for tj hood heat which showed outside back as high heat locations.
The color is a Rust-Oleum hammer finish rattle can. I really like how it pairs with the OEM desert khaki. I am probably going to repaint my rear fenders rockers and bumper in this instead of black.
I moved the vents as far aft as possible and as far outboard as possible and put the lowest bolt right next to the hood support and right at the start of the hood bend. From there just aligned the angle of the vent to parallel the hood lines.
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They look good after you got 'em cleaned up and repainted. The paint was chipping pretty bad on them, so whatever you did, good job!
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Thanks, ya sanded them up then primer / paint and clear from rattle can.They look good after you got 'em cleaned up and repainted. The paint was chipping pretty bad on them, so whatever you did, good job!
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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I got the new silicone parts to fix up my intake today. I previously the cone sitting straight in line with the tube but noticed it had been hitting the insulation on hood and I was getting a whistle when it was hot and it was trying to suck in the insulation. Figured the whistle was likely due to air filter setup. So I got the the 45deg and cut the tube down some more and was able to get the cone down by the back of the coilover hoop.
Test drive went great and I could feel the heat pouring out of the hood vents so hope that helps and no more heat soak rough startups.
Test drive went great and I could feel the heat pouring out of the hood vents so hope that helps and no more heat soak rough startups.
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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I considered it. I should be good now and Id like to keep any fire protection I can.
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Cringe. It hasn't been delivered yet. Temp-sender arrives on Thursday so possibly a weekend project... I hope... Depending on what needs fixing.
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Got into some bigger rocks at the more serious of my two local ORV areas. I was here over a year ago. Pre coilovers and all. I drug over EVERYTHING back then. In fact this drop in the picture is how i got a softball dent in my UCF skid. The rig did SOOO much better. I didn't even touch the skid here. Also, with the front JL Brakes I have so much better control coming down the steep stuff. I got to sit and watch the buggy lines and chat with a buggy designer / builder. Wow that's a whole different world.
I drug my SWAG body mounts down an obstacle and they did exactly as they were designed. Skid right by. Last time I was here I bent 3/6 of the main frame body mounts.
I did give my steering ram one good whack so I do need to do some kind of skid there before it costs me a ram.
Also you will be happy to know I am over the rear short arms. I put in the order for Currie joints last night. Going to order the aluminum links from WOD today. I really need to snag some half doors too visibility is just terrible with the full doors and steep stuff.
I drug my SWAG body mounts down an obstacle and they did exactly as they were designed. Skid right by. Last time I was here I bent 3/6 of the main frame body mounts.
I did give my steering ram one good whack so I do need to do some kind of skid there before it costs me a ram.
Also you will be happy to know I am over the rear short arms. I put in the order for Currie joints last night. Going to order the aluminum links from WOD today. I really need to snag some half doors too visibility is just terrible with the full doors and steep stuff.
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Ordered links just now from wide open designs. Seeing as I'm working from home right now there really is no better time to do the rear midarm install. I was trying to do more at once like I see a lot of builds. I am plagued by doing things three times. My only kind of wildcard is I wanted to do some sort of cutting brake setup but I guess I can do that when I install an Atlas later on. I can deal with the turning radius for now what I really need more of is traction and getting rid of the short arm Lca land anchors.
Finished getting the pan and temp sender installed and took it for a test ride doorless in the rain because I couldn't wait any longer! I thought the sender was broken. It really takes a while for the sump to heat up. I have a hill to go test it on that should show how hot it really gets but didn't get to do that today.
Finished getting the pan and temp sender installed and took it for a test ride doorless in the rain because I couldn't wait any longer! I thought the sender was broken. It really takes a while for the sump to heat up. I have a hill to go test it on that should show how hot it really gets but didn't get to do that today.
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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Where is that? I'm thinking the speedway hill from the ferry terminal all the way up. It's perfect 3rd gear torque converter open speed. Other than that the actual best test is forest roads 4-hi up STEEP grades at 30mph.Dutch hill?
If my sump temps get over 220F then I think I will add in a second aux cooler. small one with a fan that way I get cooling via fan on slow crawls and cooling by speed on highway and everything working double on steep forest roads.
OP
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
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I am but the ferry hill is the only hill long and steady enough where i've managed to get my old temp gauge (mounted on aux filter) to go over 220F.By the ferry? I thought you were in Snoho bud, my bad