I may have hurt his feelings since I can't find the post or picture. I meant to snag the pic but didn't.
04 LJK Repair, Redo, Recycle - The 3 R's of a First Build
- Thread starter B00mb00m
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B00mb00m
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Moley moley moley. Hahah.
I got the edges all trimmed up and the holes drilled on driver side last night. Everything bolted up great! Should I glue the spacer blocks onto the main plate for ease of assembly? I have some flexible loctite super glue that would probably work well. I just need to notch around the transmission pan a bit more. I want at least 1/4" clearance there.
I was shocked by how easily the Diablo metal blade on my circular saw hogged through this 3/8 plate. My Makita metal chop saw does terrible with aluminum. I think maybe it's time for a new blade on that thing.
I got the edges all trimmed up and the holes drilled on driver side last night. Everything bolted up great! Should I glue the spacer blocks onto the main plate for ease of assembly? I have some flexible loctite super glue that would probably work well. I just need to notch around the transmission pan a bit more. I want at least 1/4" clearance there.
I was shocked by how easily the Diablo metal blade on my circular saw hogged through this 3/8 plate. My Makita metal chop saw does terrible with aluminum. I think maybe it's time for a new blade on that thing.
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B00mb00m
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Two final tasks to wrap up this project and drive it. I need to make the cutoff exhaust pipes meet in some manner. The front is OEM 2.5" the rear is about 2.4"OD and 2.25" ID. I'm thinking get a piece of 2.5" exhaust pipe (need about 28") weld a couple to slip over 2.5" on one end then slide it over the 2.4" and weld on rear and use a tube clamp on the front.
Or should I weld flanges on??
After that just need to drill holes for engine skid and take er for a drive see if anything makes contact, rattles, check how bad engine vibs are.
Or should I weld flanges on??
After that just need to drill holes for engine skid and take er for a drive see if anything makes contact, rattles, check how bad engine vibs are.
I fasten the spacers up to the frame with flat head screws.
When cutting aluminum with the metal specific chop saws that use blades with carbide teeth, give them a squirt of WD-40 while cutting. The reason they cut so crappy is the aluminum gums up the teeth on the blade then you wind up trying to cut aluminum with aluminum.
For the absolute best value so far to date on steel cutting blades on the chop saw get the Steel Demon from Diablo. Cheap at 40ish per blade for the 60T. So far the one we are testing cuts better than the others do when new and it has about a 100 cuts on it so far.
I made 5 cuts on it, ordered another one. After using it for a couple of weeks, I ordered 3 more. I've used the Makita very high dollar blades, several from Carbide Processors, a few no name off brands, the very high dollar Tenryu professional stuff, and a few more. None are as good as the Diablo so far.
OP
B00mb00m
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Oh nice, ya fastening to frame would work great also.
Ahh that must be what's happening with my saw blade. I'll pick up a Diablo blade then because my Makita metal chop saw was basically stalling cutting the 3/8 x 2 6061 and I'll add some oil while cutting. Thanks!
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B00mb00m
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One more step down. This was another fun mini project. Went to NAPA and they let me peruse their exhaust tubing options. I ended up just getting 2.5" tube, two pieces that have the flair at one end so you can join them. I slipped that over the OEM tube and used an exhaust clamp. I welded the tube splice together in the middle then slipped it over the 2.4" tube. I kind of squeezed it together best I could then filled in the gap with weld. This was in the fairly open area so I could mostly reach the Mig Gun in easily cept for the top I kind of blindly dabbed with weld.
Blaine told me I would need to reweld the hanger on but after looking how the tube was I actually thought I could get away without a hanger since I had added an extra hanger on the pass side of my engine block to help with front driveshaft clearance. Well when it was all mounted up I had about .01 clearance between xmember and exhaust. So I holesawed the OEM mount to fit the 1.5" tube, then lopped off the bottom and tack welded it to my cross member. I happened to have some solid rod that fit the OEM bushing so I bent that up in my vise and my press and shoved the tube up and welded it to give it around .25" clearance.
Now I'm ready to notch my skid for the transmission and mount and drive!! So stoked.
Blaine told me I would need to reweld the hanger on but after looking how the tube was I actually thought I could get away without a hanger since I had added an extra hanger on the pass side of my engine block to help with front driveshaft clearance. Well when it was all mounted up I had about .01 clearance between xmember and exhaust. So I holesawed the OEM mount to fit the 1.5" tube, then lopped off the bottom and tack welded it to my cross member. I happened to have some solid rod that fit the OEM bushing so I bent that up in my vise and my press and shoved the tube up and welded it to give it around .25" clearance.
Now I'm ready to notch my skid for the transmission and mount and drive!! So stoked.
OP
B00mb00m
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Just to note I currently will have to remove the back half of the exhaust to pull the xmember. I might go back and mount the solid rod to an exhaust clamp to make it removable.
I would highly recommend making sections of it removable, finish welding while it’s on the bench helps prevent holes or gaps
plus it will be easier to drop the crossmember.
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B00mb00m
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I wanted to and bought an extra clamp but I had too much of a gap to get a good deal. I welded everything on the bench that I couldI would highly recommend making sections of it removable, finish welding while it’s on the bench helps prevent holes or gaps
Easier to cut the mount off of the side of the trans mount and the redo it with bolts.
OP
B00mb00m
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Shit. Ya I should have done that. Now I got a bunch of tack welds to cut off... Well I'll leave it for now and when I have to remove the xmember I'll make it bolt on. Drilling and grinding on the bench will be much easier.Easier to cut the mount off of the side of the trans mount and the redo it with bolts.
To help with future design stuff, that gusset you put on top of the tube to the bushing sleeve was wholly unwarranted. The piece of 1.25" .090 wall tube will handle about 2200 lbs before it takes a permanent bend. You have more than enough weld area at the cope to bushing sleeve.
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B00mb00m
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Noted. But is it more better? Also... This is .120 wall x 1.25 (DOM). I know also not needed but it's what my buddy had.
Everything you need, nothing you don't. That and I'm only going by what you said. I didn't make up the .090 wall thickness, I got that from you. .120 is stronger.
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B00mb00m
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Yes! I love that philosophy and agree. The gusset is a bit unsightly too, should've been smaller.
Just to explain myself, I added the gusset mainly because I did such a shitty job coping the tube I needed something to hold the bushing body where it was while i filled in the cope welds. So the gusset was there so that the welding shrinkage wouldn't pull the bushing out of place.
I appreciate the design feedback on the why's of doing things not just the how's. This is what I need.
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B00mb00m
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Got her Buttoned up tonight! I looked at the exhaust hanger again to see if there was aneasy way make it removeable right now but no it's going to have to wait till I do midarm and I'll be pulling the exhaust anyway.
I pulled tires and Checked driveshaft at droop and doesn't look like ill have any contact there.
I notched the skid to clear the trans pan with the circ saw and a jig saw.
Then drilled and countersunk for 3/8 fasteners.
I have one spot of very tight clearance between xmember and skid right beneath my ultra shitty weld. It didn't clank on the test ride, but if it does then I'll chop and plate the bottom of the tube to get some space.
I pulled tires and Checked driveshaft at droop and doesn't look like ill have any contact there.
I notched the skid to clear the trans pan with the circ saw and a jig saw.
Then drilled and countersunk for 3/8 fasteners.
I have one spot of very tight clearance between xmember and skid right beneath my ultra shitty weld. It didn't clank on the test ride, but if it does then I'll chop and plate the bottom of the tube to get some space.
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OP
B00mb00m
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And here is the final product! Man what s great looking belly, super smooth and mean enough to scare off rocks.
OP
B00mb00m
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Ok so not quite the final product. Items to complete next week, I'm going to countersink frame bolts add rear brace / stiffener that bolts to the skid.
Been driving it a bit more, loving to get out in nice weather. I do notice a engine vibration in my butt around 2500 rpm. Idle has no noticeable vibrations.
I cut an inch off my hitch bike rack and got it to work with my SWAG bumper so I could get the kids out for a bike ride. Worked pretty nice and I'm going to leave the spare off for a bit.
Been driving it a bit more, loving to get out in nice weather. I do notice a engine vibration in my butt around 2500 rpm. Idle has no noticeable vibrations.
I cut an inch off my hitch bike rack and got it to work with my SWAG bumper so I could get the kids out for a bike ride. Worked pretty nice and I'm going to leave the spare off for a bit.
OP
B00mb00m
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In the spirit of Blaine's ethos, "everything you need and nothing you don't" he coached me through an awesome stiffener for the back of the skid. Had to do a little modifications to get clearance around the UJ and exhaust but otherwise this is a pretty sweet way to brace.
My favorite part is the gussets. They are 1x3x.120, cut a 1" length then split it diagonally to get two triangle U's. This was also a great project to practice welding. I'll be honest at this point I'm about ready to get a plasma cutter. I think a man can only burn up so many cut-off wheels before he goes crazy.
I'm 98% done with the skid. I drilled the skid for flathead bolts into the frame but I have to source them still. So I'm going shopping at Tacoma screw tomorrow, they should have them.
My favorite part is the gussets. They are 1x3x.120, cut a 1" length then split it diagonally to get two triangle U's. This was also a great project to practice welding. I'll be honest at this point I'm about ready to get a plasma cutter. I think a man can only burn up so many cut-off wheels before he goes crazy.
I'm 98% done with the skid. I drilled the skid for flathead bolts into the frame but I have to source them still. So I'm going shopping at Tacoma screw tomorrow, they should have them.
Looks great! What is the thought behind the horizontal runner across the top? Won't bolting the brace to the skid already stiffen the brace from folding?