Yes on the flat pitman, plus a flush zirc on bottom of TRE.
And create a few others, especially with the gear in the stock location. And it will still hit the tie rod when you stuff it if you try to move the axle forward too much. It’s been a while since I’ve seen a stock steering setup, but wouldn’t a flat pitman hit the frame?
Our upper limit is typically the joint body smacking into the bottom of the AC compressor. We move the upper over to the outside to tweak a bit more here and there. Not too far since the further you go the more it runs up into the bottom of the frame side mount for the motor. Some combination of AC, motor mount cut out, and such generally give us the balance we are after. It is also common to trim down the front side of the upper control arm mount to slow down interference with the radiator hose and then trim some off of the hose at the lower radiator side to push the bend forward.
We get 6 1/2" of up with moderate lift heights, tolerable belly heights and the steering gear in the stock location all the time. You can't pay me enough to move the steering gear. The list of other problems that creates make all the rest of the tweaks look like a snack of a few peanut butter crackers next to a full blown Thanksgiving spread for 10.
Negative on Savvy mount. Clayton JK Dana 44 truss modified a bit and their upper link mount. Not sure I'll use it or if I do, it will get cut up a bit.
I definitely get that. I moved mine, but for me it was to get the axle far enough forward to get my front tires out of the back of the fenders at full articulation / full lock. But damn, it was definitely a crazy amount of work.
I agree. I'm not going crazy. 2" and I think it could go more but if I were to get a flat pitman and keep a fabricated track bar (from 1.5" DOM) and an aftermarket mount, packaging gets tight with diff cover, track bar, drag link/pitman clearance and factory gearbox location.
We only use 1.25" diameter bars and tube for steering and trackbars. No need at all for the extra bulk of the larger stuff. Our trackbars are 1.25" x .120 wall with zero failures ever.
Straight bar with heims. Been working well.
We don't use anything with a 3/4" thread. Our rod ends have a 7/8-14 and our tie rod ends have 7/8-18. Well, that and without a lathe or some other special stuff I don't want to deal with, tapping tube is not as much fun as it should be.
Not that part, the other part. Heim is the inventor of the rod end. Not all rod ends are the Heim brand.
you trust that thickness with bends (3" offset) in it? that i might could bend me up 1 or even .188.
No, if I had to put bends in it, I would either use very heavy wall or sleeve it with solid aluminum bar stock first and then do the bend.
For me the flat pitman was only benefit, i'm forward about 1" from stock. If you make the pitman arm long it will hit the frame, Toximus notched his frame i believe. I build a telescoping pitman arm to adjust the length such that i could match the max turning radius with my axle UJ's. My flat pitman does not hit the frame. If one needs more turning radius, you and I already know the answer.... cutting brakes!
