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05 Flame Red TJ Build
- Thread starter JMT
- Start date
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I’ve been dealing with a few issues since the transmission swap.
First, didn’t have a solution for the front turn signals and side marker. That’s all fixed with four 3/4” Amber LED’s. Two in the GR fender holes and two in holes I drilled in the stock fender. No feedback on the instrument cluster. Success.
Second, the used Mopar starter I purchased on EBay was not always engaging the flex plate. I ordered a $90 chinesium so I wasn’t stuck with downtime. It’s working flawlessly for now. In the meantime I took the Mopar starter apart and cleaned it really well. If China craps out I’ll toss Mopar back in.
Third, I got a P0058 code. Bank 2/Sensor 2 or PCM. My gas mileage last tank was 9.7. I started with the sensor. Frustrating bc the sensor was brand new NTK. The new one works well and the code is gone. 13.6mpg on this tank!
Now I’ve got a clunk underneath. I’ll look for it tomorrow.
I still need to install the Setrab cooler, but I’m in the middle of a laundry room make over.
First, didn’t have a solution for the front turn signals and side marker. That’s all fixed with four 3/4” Amber LED’s. Two in the GR fender holes and two in holes I drilled in the stock fender. No feedback on the instrument cluster. Success.
Second, the used Mopar starter I purchased on EBay was not always engaging the flex plate. I ordered a $90 chinesium so I wasn’t stuck with downtime. It’s working flawlessly for now. In the meantime I took the Mopar starter apart and cleaned it really well. If China craps out I’ll toss Mopar back in.
Third, I got a P0058 code. Bank 2/Sensor 2 or PCM. My gas mileage last tank was 9.7. I started with the sensor. Frustrating bc the sensor was brand new NTK. The new one works well and the code is gone. 13.6mpg on this tank!
Now I’ve got a clunk underneath. I’ll look for it tomorrow.
I still need to install the Setrab cooler, but I’m in the middle of a laundry room make over.
OP
I’ve got some electrical problems I could use some help on. Instrument cluster back lights don’t work. Fuse #10 (Instrument Cluster) is good and getting current. I pulled the instrument cluster and unplugged both plugs just to make sure they were seated. Plugged back in with no change. Turn signal indicators work, check engine works, et Al, but no backlighting.
Fuse #1 was glowing and I removed the fuse quickly. It was extremely hot and blown. I put another fuse in and the sequence is it gets hot and starts melting the plastic, then blows the fuse, but keeps glowing and melting the plastic. I cleaned the fuse blades and receptors as well as I could with no change. When I put a new fuse in I see a spark in the input side and it Immediately gets hot.
Fuse #4 (door defeat) is good, but no current passing through the fuse. When passenger door ajar there are three sets of double beeps and then nothing. When driver door ajar it beeps as normal till the door is shut. Any ideas appreciated.
Fuse #1 was glowing and I removed the fuse quickly. It was extremely hot and blown. I put another fuse in and the sequence is it gets hot and starts melting the plastic, then blows the fuse, but keeps glowing and melting the plastic. I cleaned the fuse blades and receptors as well as I could with no change. When I put a new fuse in I see a spark in the input side and it Immediately gets hot.
Fuse #4 (door defeat) is good, but no current passing through the fuse. When passenger door ajar there are three sets of double beeps and then nothing. When driver door ajar it beeps as normal till the door is shut. Any ideas appreciated.
OP
If the tension in the fuse holder is not good then the connection will not be good, and heat will build which can blow the fuse.
Aluminum oxide can also build up on the fuse blades causing a poor connection with the same result.
Not sure how to fix the tension in the fuse holder. I can get better fuses with a thicker blade for a better connection, but the original fuse was a good fuse. Some of the others weee lower quality Amazon bulk.
Aluminum oxide can also build up on the fuse blades causing a poor connection with the same result.
Not sure how to fix the tension in the fuse holder. I can get better fuses with a thicker blade for a better connection, but the original fuse was a good fuse. Some of the others weee lower quality Amazon bulk.
Were you having these issues with the wiring harness prior to the auto swap & new wiring harness? If not then I'd be looking at what you did when you installed the new harness and see if you can find an issue.
It's really strange that it will blow the fuse but continue to get warm.
It's really strange that it will blow the fuse but continue to get warm.
OP
I did not have these issues before the auto swap. I swapped the dash harness, but the auxiliary fuse box is the same. However, some of the problems could be in the steering and instrument cluster area. I don’t know, but I’m terrible with electric. I think like Blaine said it’s the fuse quality. I need to go to the other thread and ask what a good quality fuse is.
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I’ve been working on a home project. We got a new washer and dryer. That led to my wife having dreams of renovating the laundry room. It looked like this, and I agree it’s ugly and not very user friendly. So I started tearing things up.
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The plan was two floating shelves, tiled back wall, and butcher block countertop over the washer and dryer. I convinced the wife we should raise the sink, pull it forward and make a single countertop 30” deep across the whole room, buy a new sink and faucet and make it look nice.
The water outlets are higher than the countertop and they look like crap, so I planned a removable shelf made out of butcher block.
Floating shelves will be 1.5” thick. Built outside and moved into position. Screwed and glued.
The water outlets are higher than the countertop and they look like crap, so I planned a removable shelf made out of butcher block.
Floating shelves will be 1.5” thick. Built outside and moved into position. Screwed and glued.
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Turned out good and perfectly level which will be required for the tile.
I really don’t like tiling. This was my first attempt. It’s just a very messy process, especially with the grout. I used a grout with sealer in it so I save some steps.
Butcher block cut and mounted
Sink hole cut.
Sink set in the hole and the removable shelf built to cover the water and electrical area. Later I’m going to steal the 220V outlet behind the dryer and send it to the garage for the welder. That’s a result of convincing my wife we could switch to a gas dryer since a line is already there.
I really don’t like tiling. This was my first attempt. It’s just a very messy process, especially with the grout. I used a grout with sealer in it so I save some steps.
Butcher block cut and mounted
Sink hole cut.
Sink set in the hole and the removable shelf built to cover the water and electrical area. Later I’m going to steal the 220V outlet behind the dryer and send it to the garage for the welder. That’s a result of convincing my wife we could switch to a gas dryer since a line is already there.
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Finished the tiling and grout. Did I say I didn’t like tiling? It turned out good though.
OP
The sink was 16 gauge stainless and didn’t have a hole for a soap dispenser. Found one in brushed nickel for $10, just needed to drill the hole. That was the biggest PIMA ever. I didn’t realize stainless Harden’s as it heats up. After 5 hours of making minuscule progress I discovered slug knocker and borrowed from a friend who has everything. I broke his 3/8” drift bit, but it finally worked. 16 gauge is pretty thick. I bought my buddy a new drift. Now the 1” hole cost about $75. 
But I got a soap dispenser. 
But I got a soap dispenser.
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My wife had a great idea to use some of the extra butcher block to make a matching edge on the floating shelves. Filled the nail gun holes after. Easy and really ties it together. I used a matte Polycrilic on all the butcher block. It adds protection and doesn’t change the color. Sand-Apply Coat-Dry, repeat as much as you want. Painted the walls white in the process. It’s coming together. I still have a cabinet I’m building in the corner tomorrow. It will get painted too and I’ll make a butcher block edge facing so it will tie in.
I like it. Nice work Jeremy. Great touch edging the floating shelves.
OP
I’ve been planning to ask you if you make your own cabinet doors or if you buy them. I’ve always bought mine, but I noticed yours for your recent project and wondered. They look perfect.
Laundry looks great. Back to the Jeep…you have to have a short to ground somewhere. That’s the only thing that would be heating up that fuse enough to melt it like that.
Blaine’s comments about fuse quality I think were more directed at that fact that it’s not interrupting the circuit like it’s supposed to. To me, that means is a BIG short, and it’s melting the contacts together.
Do you have a clamp that measures DC current for your multimeter? Probably doesn’t matter, since a short that big should be easy to find…think screw through a wire scenario.
Unfortunately, you’ll probably have to pull the dash apart again to find it
Blaine’s comments about fuse quality I think were more directed at that fact that it’s not interrupting the circuit like it’s supposed to. To me, that means is a BIG short, and it’s melting the contacts together.
Do you have a clamp that measures DC current for your multimeter? Probably doesn’t matter, since a short that big should be easy to find…think screw through a wire scenario.
Unfortunately, you’ll probably have to pull the dash apart again to find it
Those were coped raised panel doors, and yes, built by me - hack fabricator, hack furniture maker…