06 Rubicon No Locker Light On Dash

Simple heavy duty SPST 2-lug switches are all you need. I didn't tap into any of the locker wiring, I wired them directly to the compressors after cutting the factory wiring off at the compressors. And while not required I also moved both compressors into the engine compartment on top of the driver's side fender well.
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Simple heavy duty SPST 2-lug switches are all you need. I didn't tap into any of the locker wiring, I wired them directly to the compressors after cutting the factory wiring off at the compressors. And while not required I also moved both compressors into the engine compartment on top of the driver's side fender well.
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That’s awesome If my lines are cracked might as well! Any designs how the vacuum lines are ran? As far as testing the pumps can I run them to a 12v source?
 
That’s awesome If my lines are cracked might as well! Any designs how the vacuum lines are ran? As far as testing the pumps can I run them to a 12v source?
They aren't vacuum lines, the rubber hoses carry 5 psi pressure air from the compressors to the lockers. Yes you can test the compressors with 12 volts. The compressor's black wire is grounded and +12v is supplied to one of the other two wires to turn the compressor on. Per the 2006 FSM, the hot wire for the front compressor is tan with a red stripe, and the hot wire for the rear compressor is red with a white stripe.
 
They aren't vacuum lines, the rubber hoses carry 5 psi pressure air from the compressors to the lockers. Yes you can test the compressors with 12 volts. The compressor's black wire is grounded and +12v is supplied to one of the other two wires to turn the compressor on. Per the 2006 FSM, the hot wire for the front compressor is tan with a red stripe, and the hot wire for the rear compressor is red with a white stripe.
Just curious what is the third wire? You have been extremely helpful!
 
Great new.

The pumps do indeed work when wired to 12v I took the assembly off today to test. So it looks like I’m gonn be moving forward with the pump relocation under the hood. Any advice on how to run the lines?
 
Great new.

The pumps do indeed work when wired to 12v I took the assembly off today to test. So it looks like I’m gonn be moving forward with the pump relocation under the hood. Any advice on how to run the lines?
I ran all new rubber hoses, easy-peasy. You can keep the compressors attached to the OE bracket if you just trim it a bit with tin snips so it fits on the fender well. That keeps the compressors mounted via the rubber isolation mounts.
 
I ran all new rubber hoses, easy-peasy. You can keep the compressors attached to the OE bracket if you just trim it a bit with tin snips so it fits on the fender well. That keeps the compressors mounted via the rubber isolation mounts.
Great idea. So I’m a tad confused here the diffs have a attatchment point inside or outside? And then where do the other hoses go to?
 
Great idea. So I’m a tad confused here the diffs have a attatchment point inside or outside? And then where do the other hoses go to?
The locker air ports are outside at the top-rear of the differential housings, they are the only thing a rubber hose is attached to.... easy to find. The compressors only have two ports, an inlet to take air in and outlet that connects to the locker. Easy-peasy. :)
 
The inlets are connected together where the compressors are now. They pull their air through a common inlet you'll see when you remove the assembly from under the jeep. I replaced the common hose with a longer one and zip tied it up out of the way.
 
So new find.. pull and tested the relays.. they have 80 ohms acrosss and nothing the other way seem fine..

Jump relays pumps come on.. think the switch bypass trick will work here?
Bypass all the Jeep OE wiring, the relays are not needed for the compressors. The relays are only used by the "logic" system that prevents the lockers from operating independently of each other. Like it won't allow you to just select the front locker without having first turned on the rear locker.

I'm not using ANY of the wiring, relays, or switches for my Rubicon lockers.

These are the switches I installed to control the lockers. Butt-simple, easy, bulletproof.

Locker Switches 2.JPG
 
Bypass all the Jeep OE wiring, the relays are not needed for the compressors. The relays are only used by the "logic" system that prevents the lockers from operating independently of each other. Like it won't allow you to just select the front locker without having first turned on the rear locker.

I'm not using ANY of the wiring, relays, or switches for my Rubicon lockers.

These are the switches I installed to control the lockers. Butt-simple, easy, bulletproof.

View attachment 290216

When you bypassed them how did you wire the switches? And do the sensors still detect on the dash that they are engaging? Sorry for all the questions!!

I did chop my factory flares today !

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When you bypassed them how did you wire the switches? And do the sensors still detect on the dash that they are engaging? Sorry for all the questions!!
You wire the compressors with a simple on-off switch exactly like you'd use if you were wiring a simple 12 volt light. As I mentioned in my #19 post on the first page of this thread.

The sensors indicating the lockers are locked will no longer work nor are they needed. No other lockers we install into our Jeeps have or use sensors that verify they are locked. You can easily tell when they are locked/unlocked by how your Jeep drives.