1999 vs 2004 electronics - buying advice

The main issues with the 2006:

1) PCM. The fix for this is WranglerFixPCM (auto transmission $650; manual $1250)
2) OPDA. The fix is a Crown OPDA (~$100)
3) NSG370 Transmission. The '06's seem much better than the '05's, but 1-2 can be rough and R can get very difficult to get into.

Other than that, no. Every year will have some issues and I've probably seen more people rave about the 2004 TJ's than any of the others. All in all any of it is fixable.

Looked at a 2006 stock rubicon today. The only negative I can tell is It has a slow fuel fill. Asking $15k with 90,000 miles 2 owner
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT
Looked at a 2006 stock rubicon today. The only negative I can tell is It has a slow fuel fill. Asking $15k with 90,000 miles 2 owner

The fuel cut off valve is stuck. Drop the tank, remove the pump, reach in and remove it, sand down the edges, and reinstall. The procedure is described in more detail in a video linked to somewhere on the forum. No big deal though.
 
Looked at a 2006 stock rubicon today. The only negative I can tell is It has a slow fuel fill. Asking $15k with 90,000 miles 2 owner

At about 280K on my 06 MT.

Change the trans fluid every now and then, don't believe the lifetime fill in the owner's manual.

Inspect the OPDA for gear wear or being hard to turn.

Replace the PCM when it starts acting up with a Wranglerfix.

I haven't had the slow fill issue, but do have the fuel burp issue sometimes which is caused by the same part.
 
At about 280K on my 06 MT.

Change the trans fluid every now and then, don't believe the lifetime fill in the owner's manual.

Inspect the OPDA for gear wear or being hard to turn.

Replace the PCM when it starts acting up with a Wranglerfix.

I haven't had the slow fill issue, but do have the fuel burp issue sometimes which is caused by the same part.

Will do. Something else I forgot to mention is that the transmission was popping out of 1st. Have you had this issue with yours? I’m guessing the trans has to be rebuilt.
 
No issues with it popping out of 1st or R.

Are you sure it doesn't have a body lift causing the console, etc to interfere with the shifter?
 
  • Like
Reactions: NashvilleTJ
Well, if it's on stock size tires, you can start off in 2nd on the street. I hardly ever use 1st unless off road or starting off on a hill on the street. 1st was also good for creeping in line to get on base in the mornings as I didn't have to keep clutching it.
 
I have an 05 TJR Unlimited manual with 113k. No issues OPDA issues are exaggerated by folks who don’t have 04-06s IMO. That being said mine was replaced under recall by PO.
 
Looking at a 99 with 80k miles and a 2004 rubicon with 30k miles. Both well cared for and no rust anywhere.

Which year of the two is least likely to have electronic issues in theory? This assumes both are mechanically sound, which it seems they are. I believe the 99 was the last year of a distributor before going to a coil rail plugs (can position sensor).

Only asking because I’m trying to avoid potential cam sensor issues (and other electronic issues), since jeep doesn’t make the moapr part and a $30 sensor can render the jeep unreliable - at least from what I have seen people post on here. I could be blowing this out of proportion, but thought I would ask anyways.

Thank you,

Based on your parameters, I would go for the 1999 model.

As the TJ got newer, they became more electronic and complex. That is why I also prefer the earlier models.


And you are correct that 1999 was the last year the TJ had a distributor. My 1998 model has 160K miles, and my distributor hasn't given me any problems. Just replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor every 60K miles for basic maintenance.

In addition to a simpler ignition system, the 1999 model also has a much simpler exhaust system. The 1999 has only one catalytic converter, whereas the 2004 has two. And the 1999 will have only two O2 sensors, whereas the 2004 has four.

And if the 1999 model has an automatic transmission, it will have the very simple and archaic 3-speed 32rh. This is considered one of the very best automatic transmissions ever made by *anyone.* I think the last year for it was 2002, when it was replaced by a far more complicated (and problematic) electronic-controlled automatic overdrive.


And on a personal note, I prefer the interior and seats on the 1999 compared to the lowered seats of the 2003+ model.

Above all, I absolutely DESPISE that problematic multi-function light stalk that the 2000+ models all had.
 
Last edited:
Based on your parameters, I would go for the 1999 model.

As the TJ got newer, they became more electronic and complex. That is why I also prefer the earlier models.


And you are correct that 1999 was the last year the TJ had a distributor. My 1998 model has 160K miles, and my distributor hasn't given me any problems. Just replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor every 60K miles for basic maintenance.

In addition to a simpler ignition system, the 1999 model also has a much simpler exhaust system. The 1999 has only one catalytic converter, whereas the 2004 has two. And the 1999 will have only two O2 sensors, whereas the 2004 has four.

And if the 1999 model has an automatic transmission, it will have the very simple and archaic 3-speed 32rh. This is considered one of the very best automatic transmissions ever made by *anyone.* I think the last year for it was 2002, when it was replaced by a far more complicated (and problematic) electronic-controlled automatic overdrive.


And on a personal note, I prefer the interior and seats on the 1999 compared to the lowered seats of the 2003+ model.

Above all, I absolutely DESPISE that problematic multi-function light stalk that the 2000+ models all had.

Thank you! Will keep all of this in mind! Going to look at another one this weekend
 
What are some thoughts on this jeep? Is it priced fairly for a 2004 Rubicon 27k miles? Insurance said they only cover up to KBB value, if its a total loss. I guess that's the risk

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicle/729775046

Why are you even looking at Rubicons? 🤨

All Rubicons are 2003 or newer.

Which means all of them have a cam sensor.


Didn't you say THIS in your first post?
Only asking because I’m trying to avoid potential cam sensor issues (and other electronic issues), since jeep doesn’t make the moapr part and a $30 sensor can render the jeep unreliable - at least from what I have seen people post on here. I could be blowing this out of proportion, but thought I would ask anyways.
 
What are some thoughts on this jeep? Is it priced fairly for a 2004 Rubicon 27k miles? Insurance said they only cover up to KBB value, if its a total loss. I guess that's the risk

https://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicle/729775046

Why are you even looking at Rubicons? 🤨

All Rubicons are 2003 or newer.

Which means all of them have a camshaft position sensor.


Didn't you say THIS in your first post?
Only asking because I’m trying to avoid potential cam sensor issues (and other electronic issues), since jeep doesn’t make the moapr part and a $30 sensor can render the jeep unreliable - at least from what I have seen people post on here. I could be blowing this out of proportion, but thought I would ask anyways.
 
Why are you even looking at Rubicons? 🤨

All Rubicons are 2003 or newer.

Which means all of them have a camshaft position sensor.


Didn't you say THIS in your first post?
Only asking because I’m trying to avoid potential cam sensor issues (and other electronic issues), since jeep doesn’t make the moapr part and a $30 sensor can render the jeep unreliable - at least from what I have seen people post on here. I could be blowing this out of proportion, but thought I would ask anyways.

based on the responses, the cam sensor issue seemed to be minor, considering all potential issues