2" lift w 33" inch tires

JMT said:
Your 2” spacer and 33’s on an aftermarket wheel with good backspacing and the Dana 35 should be ok as long as you do light wheelin and don’t disconnect your swaybar.

As mentioned, that tire size on factory gears will result in less performance than stock. If you have 3.73 it’s probably livable. The 3.07’s would be worse.

Flat flares will probably not increase the space for your tires. It’s the fender that is the bigger issue. If you replaced fenders and flares, by a company like JCR or MetalCloak, you could get more clearance for tires. A small 1-1.25” body lift will also give you more clearance for tires, and is a cheap and good solution.

Your shocks might be skyjacker or Rancho, hard to say. Shocks control your ride quality. It only matters as far as your preference in ride

Last thing, you might want to measure your actual lift amount, considering the fact that your stock coil springs might be sagging. To do this measure the spring and spacer. Stock front is 12” and rear is 8”, so anything greater than that is actual lift.at least then you will know where you really stand.
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I don't necessarily know what acceleration and performance SHOULD feel like, but mine doesn't seem to be atrocious so if I had to guess I'd say it was the higher one.... like the axle tho I'll check when I can....

also this may be a stupid question but what exactly is the difference between the flare and the actual fender?

& I feel like everything I read about body lifts is completely against them but are they really that bad? I get that they don't get you the flex of an actual lift but then again neither does a spring spacer and that's what I'm on right now. I'm just thinking if I can spend a little for a body lift until I have the money to get a quality 3.5" or so lift, that may be the best move so long as body lifts aren't actually the devil like I've read about them.
 
Body lifts aren't bad as long as you stick with 1.25" or smaller BL. This is what the fender looks like without the plastic flare,
20150802_134741.jpg

The arrows indicate the most common points where the tire will hit if not bumpstopped properly.

Here I'm checking for clearance at full bump with the wheel at full lock.
20150802_134721.jpg
 
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bobthetj03 said:
Body lifts aren't bad as long as you stick with 1.25" or smaller BL. This is what the fender looks like without the plastic flare,
View attachment 26446
The arrows indicate the most common points where the tire will hit if not bumpstopped properly.

Here I'm checking for clearance at full bump with the wheel at full lock.
View attachment 26447
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can I replicate this myself to see if the bump stops are right? and if not, would a 1" body lift solve the problem?.....

and in addition, would I need anything else? motor mount lift, t case drop, etc?
 
Only thing a body lift will do for you is give you more suspension travel before the tire hits the fender. This would be beneficial if you end up needing to add more bumpstop to avoid interference with the fender.
This is 2" of added bump stop to the front for reference.
20150802_154610.jpg

By adding more bump stop you are also limiting your suspension up travel. Moving the body up 1" allows the suspension to up travel that 1" more before the tires would rub. The other option would be taller springs, but that opens up another can of worms.
 
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2006TJ1 said:
so is this something that is an issue every time I drive or only offroad? I'll check when I can to see whether I have the 35 or the 44
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A stock Dana 35 and 33" tires is something that you only need to worry about if you spin your tires and shock load your axle shafts. That typically happens off road, though it can happen if you jump a curb getting out of a parking lot and things like that. The Dana 35 has an evil reputation in certain circles. It does not deserve that evil reputation. There are tens of thousands of Dana 35's that function just fine under the back of a TJ (and other Jeep vehicles) Ask yourself this, when was the last time you saw a Jeep broken down beside the road with a broken rear axle? Don't abuse the Dana 35 and you will be fine on the street and for mild off roading. Don't loan a Dana 35 equipped TJ on 33's to your nephew for a prom night ride. Don't lock it without upgrading the axle shafts. Don't drop the hammer repeatedly on it. Drive it like an adult and it will last a long time. Just don't be horribly surprised when it eventually does twist off an axle shaft at the splines. The damage is cumulative.
 
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StG58 said:
A stock Dana 35 and 33" tires is something that you only need to worry about if you spin your tires and shock load your axle shafts. That typically happens off road, though it can happen if you jump a curb getting out of a parking lot and things like that. The Dana 35 has an evil reputation in certain circles. It does not deserve that evil reputation. There are tens of thousands of Dana 35's that function just fine under the back of a TJ (and other Jeep vehicles) Ask yourself this, when was the last time you saw a Jeep broken down beside the road with a broken rear axle? Don't abuse the Dana 35 and you will be fine on the street and for mild off roading. Don't loan a Dana 35 equipped TJ on 33's to your nephew for a prom night ride. Don't lock it without upgrading the axle shafts. Don't drop the hammer repeatedly on it. Drive it like an adult and it will last a long time. Just don't be horribly surprised when it eventually does twist off an axle shaft at the splines. The damage is cumulative.
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And this is the kind of good information you get from this forum! Folks with actual experience and a wealth of knowledge...
 
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There are some of us who spend waaaay to much time thinking and talking about TJ's. It's some sort of obsessive / compulsive disorder probably. @Chris set the tone and provided the platform and the rest of us just sort of followed along. And like most other things, the more you put in, the more you get out.
 
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A small body lift is fine, and actually sets you up to do a tummy tuck later, if you wanted. TJ Guru Blaine says it’s the cheapest mod for the most benefits (or something to that effect). Gives more room for an aftermarket TCase Shifter like Savvy makes, but not necessary for your purposes. Just don’t get over 1.25” body lift or it starts to look stupid and be a problem.

If you do a body lift without a motor mount lift you’ll have to lower your fan shroud 1”. If you do a motor mount lift with the body lift then no issues with the fan shroud.

The flare is the plastic part, usually black, but sometimes color matched. The fender is the metal part it is attached to that forms your wheel well.
 
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Squatch said:
I think you just called @Chris an enabler... :D
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Oh man, now THAT'S funny! @Chris the enabler... I wonder how much time and money he has cost folks through the simple act of building and maintaining this site? How many broken homes and ruined marriages? How many people came to this site looking for a simple cure for Death Wobble and ended up building a Savvy / Currie rock crawlin' TJ and wearing a "Jeep is Life" t-shirt?

:risas3:
 
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You should ask my wife about this site... She'll tell you, "He spends so much damn time on that site!".

It's her fault though... She pushed me to get a Wrangler years back. Not that I didn't already want one, but she fully supported it!
 
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StG58 said:
A stock Dana 35 and 33" tires is something that you only need to worry about if you spin your tires and shock load your axle shafts. That typically happens off road, though it can happen if you jump a curb getting out of a parking lot and things like that. The Dana 35 has an evil reputation in certain circles. It does not deserve that evil reputation. There are tens of thousands of Dana 35's that function just fine under the back of a TJ (and other Jeep vehicles) Ask yourself this, when was the last time you saw a Jeep broken down beside the road with a broken rear axle? Don't abuse the Dana 35 and you will be fine on the street and for mild off roading. Don't loan a Dana 35 equipped TJ on 33's to your nephew for a prom night ride. Don't lock it without upgrading the axle shafts. Don't drop the hammer repeatedly on it. Drive it like an adult and it will last a long time. Just don't be horribly surprised when it eventually does twist off an axle shaft at the splines. The damage is cumulative.
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okay thank you. like I said, my wheeling is limited and not anything crazy when I do go. it's my daily driver so especially now that I know I'm not properly set up, I won't be taking any serious chances. is this much less of an issue for the Dana 44?

I've already learned so much just from this one post, really glad I came to this group!!
 
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JMT said:
A small body lift is fine, and actually sets you up to do a tummy tuck later, if you wanted. TJ Guru Blaine says it’s the cheapest mod for the most benefits (or something to that effect). Gives more room for an aftermarket TCase Shifter like Savvy makes, but not necessary for your purposes. Just don’t get over 1.25” body lift or it starts to look stupid and be a problem.

If you do a body lift without a motor mount lift you’ll have to lower your fan shroud 1”. If you do a motor mount lift with the body lift then no issues with the fan shroud.

The flare is the plastic part, usually black, but sometimes color matched. The fender is the metal part it is attached to that forms your wheel well.
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so 1" is proper for if I ever wanted to do a tummy tuck? just don't want to limit my possibilities from the the start
 
2006TJ1 said:
so 1" is proper for if I ever wanted to do a tummy tuck? just don't want to limit my possibilities from the the start
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Yes, 1" is all you need for a body lift. Anything over that is unnecessary and will look stupid too. All of the aftermarket "tummy tuck" skid plates out there only require a 1" body lift.
 
piratemonkey said:
Ah. The good old auto/mechanical locker.
I've never heard them refered to as a lunch box haha
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A Lunch Box automatic locker utilizes the existing carrier, like the Auzzie or Powertrax lockers, and replaces the spider gears. That's different than an automatic locker like the Detroit, that replaces the whole carrier. One can be a driveway setup, and the other requires that the ring and pinion gears be reset. One works better in the front differential than the rear and one is typically installed in the rear differential, though it can be used successfully in both.
 
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2006TJ1 said:
okay thank you. like I said, my wheeling is limited and not anything crazy when I do go. it's my daily driver so especially now that I know I'm not properly set up, I won't be taking any serious chances. is this much less of an issue for the Dana 44?

I've already learned so much just from this one post, really glad I came to this group!!
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Stock Dana 35 vs. stock Dana 44? Yes, the Dana 44 is more robust in stock form that a stock Dana 35. It will still break though, just like any other mechanical part when abused. It's just not as exciting when a Dana 44 breaks because the axle shaft stays put. The wheels can and usually do come off a Dana 35 when you break an axle shaft.

People break Dana 60's and 14 bolt axles.
 
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