2" lift w 33" inch tires

so now if I have some more questions about body lifts, should I make a new thread? I know this one is posted under wheels and tires, I just want to make sure I'm following the rules of the forum... or does it not matter
 
alright well in that case, would I need to replace anything at all if I do go through with the body lift? probably will follow through with it after Christmas.....
longer shocks? the shocks on right now are not stock. I assume they are longer than the stock once since there is a 2" lift already. if there's a way to tell by measuring I can do that
 
A body lift doesn't change anything in the suspension. You are simply separating the tub from the frame by 1". Only issue you might run into with a BL is binding of the transfer case shifter linkage. You might need to adjust the linkage, or worst case purchase a Savvy Offroad cable shifter.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
A body lift doesn't change anything in the suspension. You are simply separating the tub from the frame by 1". Only issue you might run into with a BL is binding of the transfer case shifter linkage. You might need to adjust the linkage, or worst case purchase a Savvy Offroad cable shifter.
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and how do I know if this does or does not happen after the lift is installed
 
It will be tough to shift the transfer case if it binds. I plan on a body lift this winter, and I'm adding the Savvy cable shifter to the budget. The stock linkage is just WAY too complicated in my opinion...I've had it pop out of 4 lo on me too many times...and I'm mostly stock!
 
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Ranger_b0b said:
It will be tough to shift the transfer case if it binds. I plan on a body lift this winter, and I'm adding the Savvy cable shifter to the budget. The stock linkage is just WAY too complicated in my opinion...I've had it pop out of 4 lo on me too many times...and I'm mostly stock!
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so is it a guessing game as to whether it happens, or is it pretty much guranteed?
 
glwood said:
Stuck. Hard to get in/out of 4wd. Nothing adjustment shouldn't take care of.
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okay.... just wasn't sure if I need to have an aftermarket cable ready but if I can just adjust the stock one, that should be fine.
I guess that's all I really have to ask, all of the help was amazing, definitely a good 1st experience on the forum
 
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so if I measure the springs and they ARE sagging and I decide to buy new ones, could I just buy springs that are 2" longer and get rid of the spacers all together?
 
2006TJ1 said:
so if I measure the springs and they ARE sagging and I decide to buy new ones, could I just buy springs that are 2" longer and get rid of the spacers all together?
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Yes, and that is the preferred approach. Use springs not spacers to achieve the desired lift. With spacers its very easy to compress your springs into a condition called coil bind, where the coils are fully compressed against each other. That is bad for a spring and you should bump stop to prevent that condition from happening. Correcting coil bind with bump stops can leave some articulation on the table. If you want maximum suspension travel the correct springs are the way to go. If it's all for looks, it doesn't really matter.
 
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StG58 said:
Yes, and that is the preferred approach. Use springs not spacers to achieve the desired lift. With spacers its very easy to compress your springs into a condition called coil bind, where the coils are fully compressed against each other. That is bad for a spring and you should bump stop to prevent that condition from happening. Correcting coil bind with bump stops can leave some articulation on the table. If you want maximum suspension travel the correct springs are the way to go. If it's all for looks, it doesn't really matter.
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how long should my bumpstops be? or how long would be safe for the 33s I have? I just want to start correcting things asap. I plan on doing the body lift after Christmas
 
2006TJ1 said:
how long should my bumpstops be? or how long would be safe for the 33s I have? I just want to start correcting things asap. I plan on doing the body lift after Christmas
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Good question. There's a nice write up here about setting your bump stops correctly...let me see if I can find it for you. There's no canned setup to follow when you set your bump stops because of all the variables involved. It's a "cut to fit" process. BRB.

Edited to add: Here ya go!
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-set-your-bump-stop-on-a-jeep-wrangler-tj.2474/
 
Based off my jeep, which has a 2.5" lift and 33X1050X15 tires and 1" wider Rubicon flares, I needed 2" bump stop extensions in the front, and 1.5" bump stop extensions in the rear. I'd start there and adjust to suit your rig. You'll have .5" less lift, wider tires, and narrower flares. It's a bit of work but the best way to set it up is to pull the springs and shocks then set the axle at full bump then you'll find out real quick what hits and what fits. You have to pull the springs anyways to drill/tap threads for the added bumpstops.

In this photo, I'm drilling/taping thread in the front axle lower spring perch to add bump stops, which happen to be 1" hockey pucks.
100_0872.JPG
 
Update: based on the looks of the differential cover, I do think I have the Dana 44, which should take away the danger of 33s, right?
 
2006TJ1 said:
Update: based on the looks of the differential cover, I do think I have the Dana 44, which should take away the danger of 33s, right?
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I don't think the Dana 35 is too weak for 33's, but the Dana 44 is more than up to the task.
 
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