Would this be an okay ratio for highway driving? This is gonna be a long distance runner to get us out there to explore.
2004 LJ Camp and Crawl Build
- Thread starter Posthvman
- Start date
Would this be an okay ratio for highway driving? This is gonna be a long distance runner to get us out there to explore.
Even with that said, I think going 4" is still going to open a can of worms isn't it? The biggest appeal in staying where I'm at now (which I think is 2" spacer + 1" spring) is the ease of labor... and wear and tear on my wallet!
I think I could get away with just swapping my springs and spacers for 3" springs and getting fresh shocks. Out the door with fresh components for like $500-600. I can't afford to go down the rabbit hole right now and do everything it sounds like 4" will require. But please correct me if I'm wrong!
Based on 33" tires ... 5.13 will put you at ~2600rpm at 70mph and ~3000rpm at 80mph. It's the best you can do with the Dana 30 front axle.
http://www.grimmjeeper.com/gears.html
Keep in mind you need to measure actual tire height. A 33" etc is almost never 33" diameter
for more accuracy measure your tires from the ground up to the center of the wheel hub and double it. Use that measurement for the tire size in the calculator
Absolutely. I used 32" for a quick estimate.
I checked it out and the crack is coming up from one of the flare extension mounting holes that is missing a bolt. The paint chip has laid back down, I'm guessing due to temp/humidity swings. I'm going to pull the flares off this weekend and do a more in depth assessment of the damage.
First parts started trickling in today. It has begun!
So far just the 2" rear coil spacers and stock bump stops.
So far just the 2" rear coil spacers and stock bump stops.
Yes, I understand its a LJ build but even at that wouldn’t 4” lift require some other mods like a MML or TC drop?
That is a great thread. I did get a little “lost” between what might not be needed on JL vs the TJ. Either way I think 3” of lift would be fine for me.
Yeah, I think 3" is a safe bet. That's sorta where I'm leaning as well and I "think" that's what I have now, according to measurements in yet another insanely informative thread.
Got a line on a Warn 8274 with no cable and new wiring for $625. Sounds like a go to me? I've always wanted one and the price seems alright for what they fetch anymore.
So while I can appreciate that it has been cleaned up here is what I would check for:
Does it have the remote? If it does not it will cost you $130 or so for a retrofit plug and remote.
Does it run? Motors are not cheap if you are not planning for upgrading.
Does the brake work. You test this by holding the inner disc and rotating the outer back and forth. You should have about in inch of rotation and can see the cam pressing the plates together.
Does the clutch knob move freely. You should be able to push and pull it with just a small amount of effort.
I would use those tests to your advantage to negotiate on price. For me I would try to get it for under $500 if you can.
Great info, I appreciate it!
I do plan to upgrade the motor, so maybe it would be better to wait out finding one that needs a motor and using that to get it cheaper?
Also have this one that's a little bit of a drive. Needs some work, but asking $400 obo
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Has remote and two extra "Cylla noids"
Totally dig the winch plate with this one too.
If upgrades are part of the plan then spending less in the beginning is usually a good thing. That being said if you find an older 8274s with the metal control plug with the remote those pieces are worth some money to the right person doing a period correct restoration.
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