2005-2006 TJs: OPDA and other problems?

Daz7 said:
So whats the issue with it?
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There is only one issue with the 2005-2006 OPDA and that is its a shit design fault that can strip your cam gear! lol
I had a Crown unit sitting in a box waiting for issues and should have just changed it out as soon as I got it.
But I agree whats the issue with Jonzer63,s OPDA if the issue has been for weeks?
While I got you there Darryl Your o2 sensors you got from Rock auto did you get export ones? I couldnt see export o2,s so just got the NTK,s some time ago but havent changed yet as I was told they were different to export.. I did ask on your Channel but I think you were busy with the camper.
 
I disagree with the OPDA internet drama, it's blown out of proportion. Insert the Crown unit and you really shouldn't have too many issues going forward. If it worries you, spend 5mins and pull the thing out and inspect the gears for wear (I'll bet there's none).

Export 02 sensors, what the hell are you smoking? 🤣
 
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Daz7 said:
I disagree with the OPDA internet drama, it's blown out of proportion. Insert the Crown unit and you really shouldn't have too many issues going forward. If it worries you, spend 5mins and pull the thing out and inspect the gears for wear (I'll bet there's none).

Export 02 sensors, what the hell are you smoking? 🤣
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Told by local jeep repairer, as well as NGK Australia and NGK Japan that they are different to the US ones.. So I take it you just bought the 4 US ones and they worked without issues.
By the way my OPDA gear was worn and I did get squealing at start up one morning, add to that the oil drive flat key was also worn.
 
Fishtaco said:
Told by local jeep repairer, as well as NGK Australia and NGK Japan that they are different to the US ones.. So I take it you just bought the 4 US ones and they worked without issues.
By the way my OPDA gear was worn and I did get squealing at start up one morning, add to that the oil drive flat key was also worn.
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Thats not correct, this is the NTK catalogue for the 4.0 and if you look at the 2005- they are all the same. Just get the ones suggested in the 02 thread from Rockauto.

If you're getting squealing, the bush in the OPDA is on its way out, probably grabbing slightly now and then, thats why you're seeing the markings on it. FWIW both of the TJ's we've owned from new had the squealing OPDA when under warranty, Jeep Australia had us continue using them, for months in my case until the part came in.

Image 23-6-21 at 1.59 pm.jpeg
 
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Daz7 said:
Thats not correct, this is the NTK catalogue for the 4.0 and if you look at the 2005- they are all the same. Just get the ones suggested in the 02 thread from Rockauto.

If you're getting squealing, the bush in the OPDA is on its way out, probably grabbing slightly now and then, thats why you're seeing the markings on it. FWIW both of the TJ's we've owned from new had the squealing OPDA when under warranty, Jeep Australia had us continue using them, for months in my case until the part came in.

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I changed my OPDA 0n my 06 the moment I heard the first squeal a few months ago, I had the crown unit sitting in a box I pre ordered from Rock Auto.
I bought the o2,s from Rock auto 8 months ago, mine is an 06, I got them when the CEL showed both codes a week after I got it but I cleared them and they went away and have not come back.
I bought the USA NTK spec for the 06 but my local jeep repairer over the phone said they were wrong so I wrote to NGK Au and NGK japan , NGK japan just said they were a different code and NGK Au said they are not for export models, I had quite a lengthy thread on them as I couldn't believe they would manufacture different 02,s for export models but I couldn't seem to find an answer other than the AU purchased NGK,s are about 4 times the price of the US NTK,s.
I noticed on one of your vids some time ago that you replaced yours with ones bought from Rock auto and the reason I asked because mine are still sitting in the shipping box.
I want to change them as I am only getting about 6.5kM,s per litre but the TJ is running perfect.
 
Jonzer63 said:
I've been dealing with this shit design opda on a 2005 for weeks. I don't think it was blown out of proportion I think you just got lucky.
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He's never owned an 05/06 TJ long enough to be lucky. Just change it out for the $100 and 30 minutes of your time and be done with it.
 
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The exact issues most people with an 05 or 06 experience.. thru the cam shaft sensor code p0016 , ended up being the opda of course. Do I purchased the crown.. with the oil getting to the tip bearing issue resolved. But now there is no sweet spot I can find where the cel stays off and the jeep will run over 65 mph. Purdy much all the issues that were over exaggerated by the internet. Lol
 
rasband said:
Did you accidentally flip the retainer clip upside down when installing the new one? It shouldn’t rotate at all by hand once that’s tightened.
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I might have put it the wrong way. Does the extended end go in a downward direction? I think when I put it back I probably ended up putting it the other way around. I didn't check how it was there before as it was very hard to see it when I took it out.

About the other issue. Do I have to remove the OPDA completely and put it back again?
 
dbbd1 said:
Molto bene!
How was the installation?
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Hi guys, I have replaced the original opda and I have been using the crown automotive since 2019, I have traveled about 10000 kilometers and I do not have any particular problems. So, I would say everything OK, zero problems. Grazie mille per il consiglio :)
 
My '06 TJU 6M started squealing badly about a month ago. I've only owned it a few months and wasn't aware of the OPDA concerns. I thought it was the drive belt and continued to drive it on and off for about a week it even though it was noisy. Belt dressing did nothing. The noise was always present at start up but would be intermittent after a while.
My wife was driving it when the CE light came on and she noticed there was no oil pressure. She shut it down fairly quickly, according to her. She had it towed home and I started it for about 10 seconds so I could hear for myself. It started sluggishly and I thought I could hear ticking so shut it down right away. I'm confident I can change the OPDA but what should I be aware of while doing it and what are the signs of doom I should look for, or am I already doomed?
Thanks in advance!
 
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UNLTD06 said:
My '06 TJU 6M started squealing badly about a month ago. I've only owned it two months and wasn't aware of the OPDA concerns. I thought it was the drive belt and continued to drive it on and off for about a week it even though it was noisy. Belt dressing did nothing. The noise was always present at start up but would be intermittent after a while.
My wife was driving it when the CE light came on and she noticed there was no oil pressure. She shut it down fairly quickly, according to her. She had it towed home and I started it for about 10 seconds so I could hear for myself. It started sluggishly and I thought I could hear ticking so shut it down right away. I'm confident I can change the OPDA but what should I be aware of while doing it and what are the signs of doom I should look for, or am I already doomed?
Thanks in advance!
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I'd pull the OPDA and have a look at the OPDA and cam gears. Is it showing oil pressure now? Before you pull the opda, make sure you understand the retiming of the OPDA (see the workshop manual) it's just a timing unit in reality but needs to be put back in the right spot. I have spun the engine till the hole in the OPDA trigger wheel lines up with the hole in the OPDA housing then pinned it before removing and re-installing the unit but found that doesn't work every time.

That said, I've just been through the same belt squeal scenario, it turned out to be the Harmonic balancer separating at the rubber bushing. On inspection it showed no issues apart from the belt squeal in fact it went away for 3 weeks, then it let go without warning.
 
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@Daz7 Thanks very much for the info. My motor currently shows no oil pressure and I suspected the oil pump until I read about the OPDA (I'm new to the Jeep world). Fortunately the motor never overheated (so my wife says) but I think your idea to to pull and assess the OPDA and gears is a good one. I've watched a couple of videos on how to pin the trigger wheel and I have the shop manual so I understand the concept. Putting hands on will likely give me a better grasp of the procedure. I just checked out your youtube library and am now a subscriber. Cheers from Montana!
 
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UNLTD06 said:
@Daz7 Thanks very much for the info. My motor currently shows no oil pressure and I suspected the oil pump until I read about the OPDA (I'm new to the Jeep world). Fortunately the motor never overheated (so my wife says) but I think your idea to to pull and assess the OPDA and gears is a good one. I've watched a couple of videos on how to pin the trigger wheel and I have the shop manual so I understand the concept. Putting hands on will likely give me a better grasp of the procedure. I just checked out your youtube library and am now a subscriber. Cheers from Montana!
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I changed mine last year after I got a minor squeal at start up one morning, My gear spun ok and the gears looked ok once out, if you are going to remove the OPDA I would have a Crown unit waiting to fit in, I got lucky as Daz did with the unit dropping (twisting ) into place but on occasions the flat end of the oil pump drive will not seat.

Its really just like removing a distributer but you need to pin those holes exact and the hold down bolt can be a bit tricky if you have big hands like myself

Not sure if it was my OPDA but it has not squealed since the change over and the engine become a bit quieter, here's my Squeal to compare to yours.

 
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@Fishtaco and @Daz7 Thank you for all of the information. I have already ordered a new OPDA and am hopeful that is the solution to my problem. I will test the oil pressure with a test kit before the install. Its scary to think about how long the engine ran while squealing but since it was shut down almost immediately when the CE light came on, I'm trying to stay optimistic. Thanks again!
 
FWIW, removing the oil filter helped me access that pesky hold down bolt a bit better. OTOH, I didn't even bother to remove the air pipe!
 
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Daz7 said:
I'd pull the OPDA and have a look at the OPDA and cam gears. Is it showing oil pressure now? Before you pull the opda, make sure you understand the retiming of the OPDA (see the workshop manual) it's just a timing unit in reality but needs to be put back in the right spot. I have spun the engine till the hole in the OPDA trigger wheel lines up with the hole in the OPDA housing then pinned it before removing and re-installing the unit but found that doesn't work every time.

That said, I've just been through the same belt squeal scenario, it turned out to be the Harmonic balancer separating at the rubber bushing. On inspection it showed no issues apart from the belt squeal in fact it went away for 3 weeks, then it let go without warning.
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@Daz7 @Fishtaco So i've got a new Crown unit and when I tried to line up the holes by turning the crank, there was no movement in the OPDA. I suspect that either the gears on the shaft or the current OPDA are gone. I don't want to pull the OPDA without lining it up but I don't know how I can make anything worse than it seems to be already. I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks.
 
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If there's no movement, either the OPDA gear is stripped/shattered or your timing chain is shot.

At this point, it's all out of alignment anyway, you are going to have to pull OPDA, verify the damage to it and/or cam. If no damage to them, timing set.

You will have to set cyl 1 to TDC on compression to put it all back together.
 
I just went up and read your initial posts. You are going to need to drain the oil and look for glitter in it. It also wouldn't hurt to cut the oil filter open and look for metal in it as well.
 
As above you are going to have to do some detective work.

If you pull off the cap on the OPDA and just hit the key so it doesn't start does the OPDA spin? If the OPDA does spin, kick it around on the key again till the holes line up and you can pin it, although a better option is to set the timing at TDC and set the OPDA at 4 o'clock as per the manual - it's downloadable from this forum. Worth a read.

If the OPDA doesn't spin when you do this, it's as stated, cam gear or timing chain. Pull the OPDA and check the gears as your first option.

Draining the oil is a good idea also to see if theres any glitter in there.

Hope it goes well for you.
 
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