Thanks for the help! I went ahead and ordered the smoke test machine in the link. I guess we’re going to go take it for a cruise anyway and hope for the best, just hoping it doesn’t leave us stranded lol.
2005 Wrangler X Issues
- Thread starter xXwillsXx
- Start date
Thanks for the help! I went ahead and ordered the smoke test machine in the link. I guess we’re going to go take it for a cruise anyway and hope for the best, just hoping it doesn’t leave us stranded lol.
I hear you! That smoke machine is helpful to have around. I believe @macleanflood recommended it. I bought one and it's already come in handy!
Looking forward to using it. The more I think about how intermittent the issue is, the more I think it could be a vacuum leak somewhere, but hell, what do I know! Just got back from a 2 hour cruise on the back roads and it did okay. Didn’t die after letting it idle for about 15 minutes when I got back like it used to, but, it does still idle really low (assuming (450-480 is too low) and kind of rough.
10-4. I’ve cleaned the heck out of the IAC, once when I took it out and cleaned it and the throttle body, and also by spraying the port when it was running. The TPS however, I have not looked into. I took it out when I had the throttle body off to clean everything but that was it. I’ll try the vacuum line tomorrow and see what it does and report back. Thanks again for all the help.
It's also possible the IAC is just bad.
When you take the line off, it's gonna rev. An improperly seated intake manifold will rev sky high.
When you take the line off, it's gonna rev. An improperly seated intake manifold will rev sky high.
Alright folks. I finally got some time to do the smoke test. Only leak is at the throttle body but is right where the throttle lever is which I assume is normal(photo below) It seems to be running pretty darn rough still. Should I try replacing the TPS next?
You have to post videos to Youtube, etc and post the link to it here.
That's just the throttle shaft leaking a bit.
You can read the TPS with an OBDII reader. Most will read approx 15% at idle and 75% or so at WOT. Should change smoothly as you depress the pedal.
That's just the throttle shaft leaking a bit.
You can read the TPS with an OBDII reader. Most will read approx 15% at idle and 75% or so at WOT. Should change smoothly as you depress the pedal.
You can measure the resistance of the injectors to see if the coil is going bad.
They should all be within a few ohms of each other, approx 15 ohms IIRC.
If you pull the injectors you will need a set of orings to reinstall.
They should all be within a few ohms of each other, approx 15 ohms IIRC.
If you pull the injectors you will need a set of orings to reinstall.
Yeah, the coils should be good.
The other thing to check would be the MAP sensor, but you'll need a scanner to read it. I had noticed that my TJ ran better when I got up in the mtns than it did down here in the swamps at 300 ft elevation. Turned out that the lowest my MAP sensor would read was equivalent to around 1500 ft elevation, so it was running lean down here in the thick air.
You'll need to read the MAP sensor with the engine off, then compare to a station reading on your cell phone with a barometer app, not the weather pressure as it's adjusted to sea level.
The other thing to check would be the MAP sensor, but you'll need a scanner to read it. I had noticed that my TJ ran better when I got up in the mtns than it did down here in the swamps at 300 ft elevation. Turned out that the lowest my MAP sensor would read was equivalent to around 1500 ft elevation, so it was running lean down here in the thick air.
You'll need to read the MAP sensor with the engine off, then compare to a station reading on your cell phone with a barometer app, not the weather pressure as it's adjusted to sea level.
Good evenin folks. Well after cleaning the injectors and reinstalling with the new o-rings, it still runs the same. Only now, I ran up town really quick today and some of the injectors are leaking at the fuel rail when I got back home. I tried like heck getting them in and used oil for the lubricant, and still they leak. It didn’t seem normal the amount of force it took to get them back in the rail. Is it possible I now need a new fuel rail? It’s pretty rusty and has corrosion. TIA!
They shouldn't be that hard to put on. You need to be sliding them in straight and oiled, but that's about it.
If they went in extremely hard, they are probably damaged.
If they went in extremely hard, they are probably damaged.
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