32RH Tranny

Wild Bill's ‘98 TJ

Member
Original poster
Joined
Oct 8, 2022
Messages
80
Location
Laurel, Ms
1998 TJ 4.0 3 speed automatic 150k miles
2nd owner babied by both owners.
*Issue*
Recently, reverse is slow to “fully” engage. It will roll back when put in reverse but takes a few seconds to move with acceleration. Also recently and occasionally, it doesn’t want to shift to 3rd until you back off the accelerator or give the accelerator a quick punch.
I’ve watched videos about adjusting/tightening the bands (front externally and rear internally). About 2-3k miles ago I dropped the pan, cleaned everything, changed the filter, and refilled with spec fluid. I did that because reverse was acting up.
Do I need to see about having the transmission rebuilt or should I try less expensive things first? If I adjust the reverse band, I’ll have to pull the pan again.
In my opinion, the fluid is a little darker than it should be and has a slight burnt smell and I just recently changed it.
Thanks in advance for opinions!!

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Burned fluid is not a good sign. But it being slow to get to reverse either means a servo is bleeding pressure off, or something is making it build pressure slow. Reverse takes 3x the pressure so it maybe isn’t surprising that you see the problem there but not other places.

Not wanting to go into 3rd feels like a sticky valve or governor problem. Both can be overhauled w/o removing the transmission.

If you aren’t getting slipping I wouldn’t jump to a rebuild just yet. Esp if 1st and 2nd are shifting normally. M1 will also exercise the LR band, so drive it in M1 and see if it gets off the line ok and also gives you engine braking. M2 won’t give you engine braking so see if M1 & M2 behave differently as you decelerate.

I would start there.

EDIT: I forgot 3rd & Reverse both use the front clutches, so they have that in common.
 
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Burned fluid is not a good sign. But it being slow to get to reverse either means a servo is bleeding pressure off, or something is making it build pressure slow. Reverse takes 3x the pressure so it maybe isn’t surprising that you see the problem there but not other places.

Not wanting to go into 3rd feels like a sticky valve or governor problem. Both can be overhauled w/o removing the transmission.

If you aren’t getting slipping I wouldn’t jump to a rebuild just yet. Esp if 1st and 2nd are shifting normally. M1 will also exercise the LR band, so drive it in M1 and see if it gets off the line ok and also gives you engine braking. M2 won’t give you engine braking so see if M1 & M2 behave differently as you decelerate.

I would start there.

Sticky valve or governor?
Yes, 1st and 2nd shift normally. It’s just reverse slow to fully engage and 3rd is hesitant at times. I do a lot of mechanics/maintenance myself but transmissions are not my thing.
 
if it goes into 2nd fine then your kickdown servo and band are fine, and your rear clutches are good. If you eventually have reverse then your L/R band is fine, although it could be out of adjustment, hard to say. But it's the clutches that fit both symptoms.

3rd and Reverse both use the front clutches (nothing else does). Reverse uses the L/R band, 3rd doesn't. If both are giving you trouble then it would seem like the front clutch apply is where your problem is. If you have some rotten smellingfluid, especially after just 3k miles, then I'm leaning toward something being bad in that drum. A line pressure test would be informative, but nobody ever does those tests.

Next best thing would be to drop the pan and do an air test to listen for the thump of the clutches applying and then no (or minimal) blow-by. This involves removing the valve body, which is very easy. And while you have that out you can bench test the valves. Although a sticky 2-3 or governor valve is not my #1 hypothesis because it doesn't explain the reverse.
 
if it goes into 2nd fine then your kickdown servo and band are fine, and your rear clutches are good. If you eventually have reverse then your L/R band is fine, although it could be out of adjustment, hard to say. But it's the clutches that fit both symptoms.

3rd and Reverse both use the front clutches (nothing else does). Reverse uses the L/R band, 3rd doesn't. If both are giving you trouble then it would seem like the front clutch apply is where your problem is. If you have some rotten smellingfluid, especially after just 3k miles, then I'm leaning toward something being bad in that drum. A line pressure test would be informative, but nobody ever does those tests.

Next best thing would be to drop the pan and do an air test to listen for the thump of the clutches applying and then no (or minimal) blow-by. This involves removing the valve body, which is very easy. And while you have that out you can bench test the valves. Although a sticky 2-3 or governor valve is not my #1 hypothesis because it doesn't explain the reverse.

Thanks for the info. I’m going to tinker with it in the evenings this week and over the weekend.