A lesson learned—keep it light and nimble!

That axle was in this truck.

IMG_2960_zps3qdbm2lk.jpg


And was trying to get unstuck in the snow.
 
So am I hearing stay away from the HP30? That would certainly make life easier for me.

There are reasons for running a HP30 and I think only you can decide that. IMO the GOOD thing about a HP30 is it moves the driveline up. If you are going to play in the rocks I like it for that reason but it's not required.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JMT and Irun
I'd still run a HP30 if one happened my way. It would get chromos, gusset the C's, and a ARB locker. It would also help with my caster.
I thought it would help with caster too, but i'm finding that the C's are clocked different then the low pinon. I'm going to end up with roughly the same castor as my LP30. This may differ between axles depending on when they were made, i don't know.
I didn't know gussets were needed on TJ axles?
 
I thought it would help with caster too, but i'm finding that the C's are clocked different then the low pinon. I'm going to end up with roughly the same castor as my LP30. This may differ between axles depending on when they were made, i don't know.
I didn't know gussets were needed on TJ axles?
The only reinforcement TJ axles need is to box in the lower control arms.
 
So am I hearing stay away from the HP30? That would certainly make life easier for me.
If you can find one cheap enough, I'd say go for it. The pic I posted was after about 12 hours on the trail and the driver was using the front locker since his rear was not working. Special incident IMO. That housing he had took some serious beating over the years.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Irun and Wildman
I'd still run a HP30 if one happened my way. It would get chromos, gusset the C's, and a ARB locker. It would also help with my caster.
I have 4340 shafts and plan to mini skid the lower control arm mounts. Based on my experiences, and breakages thus far, that should suffice!
 
Would you say the same for a Dana 30 wheeled in a wet, slick, muddy location where wheel speed is needed time to time?

@Irun are your trails mainly dry rocks?
They are not. Trails range from dry rock, wet rock, swampy black skunk water, orange gooey clay, and more. I'm typically light footed and do everything I can to keep wheel spin to a minimum. Increased wheel spin, at least from my experience, raises the probability of breaking crap. I'm old enough that I can't be talked or shamed into doing something I'm not comfortable. Following my intuition has served me well!

I can also say that the only issues I've ever had with a Dana 30 or 44 housing is the lower control arm mounts. I tore one set and my Son tore another.

9qmbZaa.jpg
 
  • Wow
Reactions: Wildman
They are not. Trails range from dry rock, wet rock, swampy black skunk water, orange gooey clay, and more. I'm typically light footed and do everything I can to keep wheel spin to a minimum. Increased wheel spin, at least from my experience, raises the probability of breaking crap. I'm old enough that I can't be talked or shamed into doing something I'm not comfortable. Following my intuition has served me well!

I can also say that the only issues I've ever had with a Dana 30 or 44 housing is the lower control arm mounts. I tore one set and my Son tore another.

View attachment 235515
Doesn't happen if you run something like the Currie Mini Skids.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Lax22 and Irun
Doesn't happen if you run something like the Currie Mini Skids.
That's why I have a set waiting to go on. These would be standard equipment for any future TJ/LJ as well. I've seen first hand what can happen if you don't!
 
That's why I have a set waiting to go on. These would be standard equipment for any future TJ/LJ as well. I've seen first hand what can happen if you don't!
Most of them I see installed are done wrong. Line up the two sides, weld them on, then smack the top lip over until it touches the tube and then weld that to the tube. Waste of time if you don't. Most I see are not welded to the tube, why bother putting them on at that point?
 
Dawned on me last night that I might need to install a track bar bracket in the rear. Although I'm only doing a 1" lift in the rear, I will be installing a Savvy UA. This is going to mean I'll need to rotate the rear axle to adjust the pinion angle. Am I correct in assuming I'll need the track bar bracket to keep things in alignment?
 
Dawned on me last night that I might need to install a track bar bracket in the rear. Although I'm only doing a 1" lift in the rear, I will be installing a Savvy UA. This is going to mean I'll need to rotate the rear axle to adjust the pinion angle. Am I correct in assuming I'll need the track bar bracket to keep things in alignment?
Yes, you will want the angled bracket. With Savvy UA and the 1" lift you're looking at a 3" to 4" equivalent lift height for the pinion.
 
Yes, you will want the angled bracket. With Savvy UA and the 1" lift you're looking at a 3" to 4" equivalent lift height for the pinion.
That's pretty much exactly what I was thinking, i.e. I'd end up with around 4" lift increase at the transfer case. Weird how this all of a sudden occurred to me. (y)
 
Most of them I see installed are done wrong. Line up the two sides, weld them on, then smack the top lip over until it touches the tube and then weld that to the tube. Waste of time if you don't. Most I see are not welded to the tube, why bother putting them on at that point?
Do you have a picture of some installed, not sure I am visualising it correctly. Also, are those skids aluminium and are Currie the only people that make them?
 
Do you have a picture of some installed, not sure I am visualising it correctly. Also, are those skids aluminium and are Currie the only people that make them?
They are steel, they're welded directly to the lower control arm mounts and to the axle tube. Currie is not the only company that makes them.

https://www.quadratec.com/products/12561_100.htm
 
  • Like
Reactions: UKTJ