OP
Watch @Jamison C build too. He's doing an 05, so more representative of what you'll have from a wiring and PCM perspective.
The parts are out there, but it takes some digging to get them.
A rebuild of #miRustyJeep...
- Thread starter Mike_H
- Start date
The parts are out there, but it takes some digging to get them.
OP
I have secured a TCM and I got shipping notification for my wire harness. I think I have everything I need to pull my auto swap off now. BUT...I'm going to be patient and wait. I need to regear first...and I have a big trip coming up in May. So...the Auto will wait.
Before May 11, this is my To Do list:
Before May 11, this is my To Do list:
- Regear front and rear axles
- Cycle rear suspension and get that all balanced, inc making new shock mounts. I haven't put the time into the rear of my jeep that I have the front and I can tell.
- Clearance the tub for the 35's
- Paint and install new fender flares
- Take it to the CB shop and get my CB tuned. I can't get it below about 3 SWR. I've tried everything I can think of.
- Look into my steering shaft bearings. I still get a little bit of wander in the front end and I've never looked at those bearings.
OP
Be sure to get the crank pilot bushing to replace the pilot bearing. I believe it helps align the T/C
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/tj-manual-to-auto-swap-tidbit.55757/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/tj-manual-to-auto-swap-tidbit.55757/
OP
Yeah, my group of buddies does, but I just joined a 4x4 club (not just jeeps and they don't conduct business on face book. I'm real excited about it!) and they have started moving to gmrs. I'll probably be running dual radios in the near future.
OP
Got it last week. A local dealer actually had one in stock.
OP
Regearing just bumped up in priority.
The sniff test tells me it's gear oil. If I'm gonna pull the cover, I might as well do the whole thing!
The sniff test tells me it's gear oil. If I'm gonna pull the cover, I might as well do the whole thing!
OP
@Jamison C don't be sad. Every problem is an opportunity!
Better for the outer seals to go now than after a regear. You’re first regear! Woohoo!
Absolutely correct! I’m building for 33s and I still can’t decide between 5.13 and 5.38. I like to gear a step lower than recommended for the manual transmission (around 3k rpm at 75), but I don’t want a ridiculously low first when I’m taking off from lights and such.
OP
It showed up! TBH I was a little skeptical. I haven't pulled it from the box yet, but I did check out some of the connectors. It appears to be in very good shape. I have a lot of irons in the fire right now, but I'll lay it out soon to clean it up and replace what needs replacing. I'll also label it and see what additions (if any) I'll need to make from mine.
I got the complete engine harness and the firewall harness, including the PDC. Bonus, as I've been looking for a spare PDC for a while, so I can make a switch control box. Not a bad score for 250 shipped.
OP
Sent a sample of my new transmission's fluid to Blackstone for analysis. Came back pretty positive.
I have this setup. I I used Barnes axle mounts because I squished the stockers and I mounted the bar pin on top of the crossmember. Mounting on top of the nuts up there yields Between 3/4”-1” of uptravel if I remember correctly.
OP
I'm actually looking at doing something a little different. I was working on my MH last weekend and noticed how they welded on the shock mounts. It looks like something I could duplicate pretty easily on the jeep...
Now, I haven't crawled under there to see if I have the room, but something like that, coming off the frame rail in the same general vicinity of the cross member would kinda bridge the gap between a full outboard and the crummy lengths that the factory mounts force on us.