Adjustable Rear Upper Control Arms With OEM Lowers

The problem I see with Core 4x4 Tier 1's is rigidity. Stock arms are designed to have some flex beyond what the Clevite bushings can provide. Putting too solid of an arm on could risk ripping arm mounts off the frame. Add some rust to that equation makes the scenario even worse.
Double adjustables are just a time saving/labor saving convenience for the most part. If you feel you can dial the pinion angle in on one or two adjustments and leave it, then single adjustable will work for you. I know a guy on here that is lowering his TJ back down and putting stock arms back on. He will be selling his adjustables, so I'll check for you.
Agree that the Core4x4 series 1 don't have the flex of even an OEM CA so that one is off the list.

Devil's advocate post....I've learned a lot on this forum and one of those things is STAY away from Rough Country at all costs. I'm going to ask it anyways, they have a flexible joint w/ greese zirk rear upper Adjustable arm for $170, coupled with a 10% off coupon it drops it under$160. Thoughts on a single component?
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Wouldn't be opposed to those. I run a RC rear TB, so if you're just doing the rear uppers, why not? What about used?
 
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For $40 more you could get the Core tier 2's with a JJ at one end. I would much more prefer that joint over a RC joint, plus you'd have something you could build on if you decide down the road to add more adjustable arms.
 
For $40 more you could get the Core tier 2's with a JJ at one end. I would much more prefer that joint over a RC joint, plus you'd have something you could build on if you decide down the road to add more adjustable arms.

Yeah, been eyeing those too. This whole process is me just trying to figure out what is necessary and make the difference for the build I’m planning.

There is part of me that says spend the money, the get the extra inch of clearance, aluminum skids, DA arms etc. (May still happen)

Trying to ferret out with what I wheel, I think 2.5 inches of additional clearance and no more shovel will do the trick, usually it's just me in the jeep with a few tool bags and no rear seat so I'm not hyper sensitive about weight, there are lots of Jeeps out there with steel skids doing just fine; honestly I feel like my jeep needs the weight in the rear since I run a slightly pitted mopar rear bumper with the OME HD springs and shocks.

Have to sell an extra car in the driveway this weekend for any of this to happen so let's keep our fingers crossed the guy shows up.
 
I run light as well for DD reasons. OME HD lift, no back seat, minimalist bumpers, and pizza cutter tires.
 
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Someone said something that was interesting... Maybe @Jorge Bolivar . A single JJ isn't going to flex more that the factory arm. Is that true? In that case, it wouldn't make sense to do anything more than the uppers, if you were planning on keeping the other factory arms. Get the cheapest adjustables you can...Like Tier 2 Core4x4.

I was planning a full set of single JJ adjustable arms. Will I gain flex from that, or will it be the same as factory? I don't want to go down that road if I'm not gaining anything.
 
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Someone said something that was interesting... Maybe @Jorge Bolivar . A single JJ isn't going to flex more that the factory arm. Is that true? In that case, it wouldn't make sense to do anything more than the uppers, if you didn't think you needed more flex. Otherwise, you'll have to spend more to get dual JJ control arms...
The issue isn't the Johnny Joint. It's the rubber bushing and the limitations it might have.
 
Someone said something that was interesting... Maybe @Jorge Bolivar . A single JJ isn't going to flex more that the factory arm. Is that true? In that case, it wouldn't make sense to do anything more than the uppers, if you didn't think you needed more flex. Otherwise, you'll have to spend more to get dual JJ control arms...

Maybe was me...
Look at it this way, get the hybrid JJ and clevite bushing arm and cross a rod on the bushings sleeves and try to twist the arm. Then get the OEM control arm and do the same. Note the miss align difference between the two. Now try to look the same scenario but with the 4 control arms on the diff, 2 oem with 2 clevite bushings and the 2 hybrids 1 jj and 1 clevite.
When all combined the JJ will not flex more than the Clevite bushing.

If flex is something the OP is looking to have then need to start looking to ad at least 2 more JJ at the lower arms. Of course, JJ on both ends on all the arms will be the best but as he is looking to do mild to medium rock gardens hybrids arms will yield good results.
 
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If you use just upper arms to fix pinion angle for a 2.5 lift and raised belly pan, I bet it'll rotate the trackbar into the crossmember. Make sure you get a corrected trackbar bracket also.

I would try get lower arms also to shorten them to keep your wheelbase. If not, just make sure you go to full bump before welding any bracket in.
 
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Yeah, I know. I'm just curious how much flex you get out of a stock arm, vs a single JJ, vs a Double JJ.

I do that test once on my TJ.
The hybrid arms has around 40% more flex than the OEM. At the time I does not have enough of travel to determine how much more the double jj arms flex over the hybrids but is easy to see that they will flex more on the correct set up.

At the time what convince Us to go with the hybrids was the amount f stress that will be released from the control arms mounts.
 
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A better hybrid JJ pairing than Clevite, Synergy's DDB has the same 30 degree misalignment as a Johnny Joint, with the added benefit of return to center.
 
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If your plans are to keep using the OEM arms I will suggest to look for an used set of adjustable arms, plenty around the Face, Craig, Ebay market and in good conditions. Core 4 x 4 Tier 1 will suite your project and will combine with the OEM at the same time.

Answering your Post #6 question;
The benefit using the JJ is flex and since the arms will be combined with the OEM style clevite bushings this benefit will be limited or not noticed.

Trust me, it is any justification for use double adjustable arms unless you want to save set up time that after been dealing with the UCF ultra clearance skid adjust your pinion angle will be a walk on the park.

One thing I like to mention; re think the use of the UCF ultra clearance skid. TJ's does not require a close to flat belly to get rid of the shovel effect plus while doing a TT the drive shaft bind at full flex must be observed not to happen.

I can tell you that this Ultra clearance system is a real pain to work with.

BTW, Its nothing wrong to save 43% as long your goal are met at the end of the project.


If your plans are to keep using the OEM arms I will suggest to look for an used set of adjustable arms, plenty around the Face, Craig, Ebay market and in good conditions. Core 4 x 4 Tier 1 will suite your project and will combine with the OEM at the same time.

Answering your Post #6 question;
The benefit using the JJ is flex and since the arms will be combined with the OEM style clevite bushings this benefit will be limited or not noticed.

Trust me, it is any justification for use double adjustable arms unless you want to save set up time that after been dealing with the UCF ultra clearance skid adjust your pinion angle will be a walk on the park.

One thing I like to mention; re think the use of the UCF ultra clearance skid. TJ's does not require a close to flat belly to get rid of the shovel effect plus while doing a TT the drive shaft bind at full flex must be observed not to happen.

I can tell you that this Ultra clearance system is a real pain to work with.

BTW, Its nothing wrong to save 43% as long your goal are met at the end of the project.

Jorge, what did you end up going with instead of the ucf ultra high clearance ?
 
Jorge, what did you end up going with instead of the ucf ultra high clearance ?

Jorge was a good dude, but he hasn't been here since May 2022. He had a UCF TT, but didn't specify which one in his profile.
 
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