Air locker help

[97TJNM]

I'm always happy to contribute, when I can. I've learned so much from this forum and its gurus!

Quick question about regulators, since you seem to have good knowledge about them: is there a hazard in going with a non-relieving regulator in this instance? I was thinking that a non-relieving type would not be constantly venting, thus allowing the air pump to shut off. Seems a relieving regulator would make the pump run constantly. Am I off base in this?

 

[AMS417]

I'm not above doing some redneck shit to get by for a bit, but long term, I want a better solution than that.

This is exactly how I test pumps and diaphragms. I used this way before Jeeps to set pop off pressure on jet ski carbs. It works.

 

[sab]

Quick question about regulators, since you seem to have good knowledge about them: is there a hazard in going with a non-relieving regulator in this instance? I was thinking that a non-relieving type would not be constantly venting, thus allowing the air pump to shut off. Seems a relieving regulator would make the pump run constantly. Am I off base in this?

The relief is on the downstream side (the locker is on the downstream side and the compressor is on the upstream side), so it has nothing to do with the compressor trigger. If the downstream pressure rises above the setpoint, a needle valve opens and the excess pressures is vented to the atmosphere. Once the pressure drops below the setpoint again, the needle closes. All this happens independently of the upstream side of the regulator. The compressor is controlled by a pressure switch somewhere upstream. I found this explanation that may help:

https://www.controlair.com/blog/wha...ween-a-relieving-and-non-relieving-regulator/

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Well, hell, looks like I can get the Kia pump new on Amazon right now.

It may be $333 bucks, which makes me want to have a stroke, but at least I know I can get one when I'm ready, if I have to go that route.

One thing to consider is that since you also have an ARB - 100 psi or so requirement - which requires a pump and a separate regulator, it may be better to run just one pump and two regulators. You need two regulators no matter what - why run two pumps?

Edit: Thinking about it, I guess if you run the Kia pump you don't need a regulator (but I'm not sure there). Either way - I think I'd rather run just one pump.

 

[97TJNM]

The relief is on the downstream side (the locker is on the downstream side and the compressor is on the upstream side), so it has nothing to do with the compressor trigger. If the downstream pressure rises above the setpoint, a needle valve opens and the excess pressures is vented to the atmosphere. Once the pressure drops below the setpoint again, the needle closes. All this happens independently of the upstream side of the regulator. The compressor is controlled by a pressure switch somewhere upstream. I found this explanation that may help:

https://www.controlair.com/blog/wha...ween-a-relieving-and-non-relieving-regulator/

Thank you again. That was informative. I get the difference now!

 

[97TJNM]

One thing to consider is that since you also have an ARB - 100 psi or so requirement - which requires a pump and a separate regulator, it may be better to run just one pump and two regulators. You need two regulators no matter what - why run two pumps?

That's a really good point.

 

[Apparition]

One thing to consider is that since you also have an ARB - 100 psi or so requirement - which requires a pump and a separate regulator, it may be better to run just one pump and two regulators. You need two regulators no matter what - why run two pumps?

Edit: Thinking about it, I guess if you run the Kia pump you don't need a regulator (but I'm not sure there). Either way - I think I'd rather run just one pump.

Only need one regulator if you run the ARB air locker compressor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P919D4/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[NashvilleTJ]

Only need one regulator if you run the ARB air locker compressor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P919D4/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Ryan - do you mean in addition to running the Rubi style pump for the front? Otherwise, how does this ARB pump setup deliver 100 psi to the rear and 5 psi to the front?

I may be missing something - been there before...

 

[Apparition]

Ryan - do you mean in addition to running the Rubi style pump for the front? Otherwise, how does this ARB pump setup deliver 100 psi to the rear and 5 psi to the front?

I may be missing something - been there before...

No regulator needed for the rear with that compressor it's meant to have the ARB solenoids mounted directly on it. You'd only need a regulator for the non rubi locker to bring the pressure down to an acceptable level.

 

[NashvilleTJ]

No regulator needed for the rear with that compressor it's meant to have the ARB solenoids mounted directly on it. You'd only need a regulator for the non rubi locker to bring the pressure down to an acceptable level.

View attachment 324304

Gotcha. Good point - that's a good solution.

 

[sab]

You don't necessarily have to use that ARB compressor in order to avoid a second regulator. You just need a pressure switch to control the compressor (and it's advisable to have a pressure relief valve in case the switch fails.) I have a York on my LJ with no regulator. The pressure switch engages the clutch when pressure drops to 120psi (or thereabouts - can't recall the exact spec off-hand) and disengages the clutch when it rises to 150psi (or thereabouts.) Pressure switches are available with all kinds of on and off pressure setpoints, and they can control a York's clutch or an electric compressor's motor just the same.

I'm all about keeping the weight of my rig down, so I try to pick the lightest setup. Two compressors seems to be the heaviest option, with one compressor with two regulators the second-heaviest, and one compressor with one regulator and one pressure switch/PRV potentially the lightest

Please disregard the fact that my York system is not the lightest setup. Weight wasn't the primary factor in that choice.

 

[LONGJP2]

I believe there's still a market for the oem rubicon lockers.
Might be a good time to upgrade.

 

[97TJNM]

Only need one regulator if you run the ARB air locker compressor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P919D4/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Fantastic. I have this pump new in box in my shed, waiting to be installed once the axles are!

 

[97TJNM]

Dang, guys. I had a problem and ya'll not only had a solution, but explained the why and how -completely- to me in a matter of a couple hours.

This forum is the best, and you guys rock! Thanks all!

 

[hosejockey61]

Well, the rear is an ARB. So that's nice at least. Any good recommendations on a regulator that will throttle an ARB air pump to 5psi? Or anyone got a Rubi air pump they want to sell?!View attachment 324283

This is an old generation 3 piece ARB. They were horrible in a Dana 30.

 

[97TJNM]

This is an old generation 3 piece ARB. They were horrible in a Dana 30.

I mean, fair enough. But it's in there so I'm gonna run it until it breaks! How were they in a Dana 44?

 

[hosejockey61]

In the front the axle would flex and the case bolts would break. Not sure about rear. Send it.

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

In the front the axle would flex and the case bolts would break. Not sure about rear. Send it.

I had that 3 piece ARB in my rear Dana 44 for years and beat on it. It lasted quite well. Never had any issues with it other than having to replace the Bonded Seal after 15 years.

@97TJNM Regarding your original post about the gears, not sure the brand but it looks like they used a spacer behind the ring gear as Rubicon's had the thick ring gear. I've seen the circle and k before on gears. I just can't remember which brand.

​

 

[sab]

I've heard many people talk about Circle K gears from South Korea, resold by multiple USA-based gear companies, and how they are top-notch. I'm just guessing (and maybe I'm just not in on the joke), but even my feeble mind connects the dots and concludes that a K in a circle on the gears would probably indicate they were made by Circle K and are good gears. No?

 

[Andy-WhiteTJ]

I've heard many people talk about Circle K gears from South Korea, resold by multiple USA-based gear companies, and how they are top-notch. I'm just guessing (and maybe I'm just not in on the joke), but even my feeble mind connects the dots and concludes that a K in a circle on the gears would probably indicate they were made by Circle K and are good gears. No?

After a quick search on here: Circle K