Alex01 Silver Sport Build Thread

someguysjeep said:
coming to the conclusion to go with this instead of a 50/50 order for the correct fit is gonna make the competitors more appealing.
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As long as one of those isn't GR. They have about 5 holes across the top. They are dead center on the horizontal leg of the hat channel spot welded inside the tail gate. No easy way to get a nutsert in. There is a matching set across the bottom. Oddly, they are spaced from the edge differently than the top row. Had they made both rows the same as the bottom, the holes would hit perfectly in the gap between the two legs of the hat channel.

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well the shits moot it's here. and if that's what they got that's what they got.

if the skins meant to be forever. i might consider taping it off and over spraying the latch and lock a bit to mask it rather than touch the aluminum.

TBH it's an out of the box GDammit, that in 3 wks you'll have probably forgotten.
 
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someguysjeep said:
a blank template and a 5$ scratch awl could leave a mark on the backside for those locations, but does require touching each piece.
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I just bolted up the armor with 4 homemade scratch awls screwed into the 5/16” OEM holes. Tapped each to mark, removed, drilled each with 3/8” and countersunk with a 5/8” 82* bevel. Compliments to @mrblaine for this idea.

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I finished up the bumps last night and got the front end back together. I had to mix parts between OEM and the Currie stops because the two rubber stops would roll on full articulation. It's pretty cool to see and I now fully understand when blaine says "roll off the bump and use the shock as final bump" It really shows how much of an art it is when he outboards. When I correct the towers in the front in the future I'll add the rubber bits back. Alternatively, I could fix it like the cool kids and beg blaine to machine down a set of 12" a bit so they fit properly but I'll run them as is for a while first.


JMT said:
I just bolted up the armor with 4 homemade scratch awls screwed into the 5/16” OEM holes. Tapped each to mark, removed, drilled each with 3/8” and countersunk with a 5/8” 82* bevel. Compliments to @mrblaine for this idea.

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That's fancy. I used the same technique to find the holes but also added the holes for the bump stops since I'll be retaining the spare. Unfortunately, 2 of holes for the rubber tire stops, im sure they have a better name than that, are in poor condition so I'll need to drill them out and add nutserts. Or size it up, I like the idea of matching hardware though.

Ready for paint.
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anybody had any luck brush finishing larger panels?

i have access to an eastwood barrel brush but it takes some practice and a steady hand.
 
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Alex01 said:
I finished up the bumps last night and got the front end back together. I had to mix parts between OEM and the Currie stops because the two rubber stops would roll on full articulation. It's pretty cool to see and I now fully understand when blaine says "roll off the bump and use the shock as final bump" It really shows how much of an art it is when he outboards. When I correct the towers in the front in the future I'll add the rubber bits back. Alternatively, I could fix it like the cool kids and beg blaine to machine down a set of 12" a bit so they fit properly but I'll run them as is for a while first.



That's fancy. I used the same technique to find the holes but also added the holes for the bump stops since I'll be retaining the spare. Unfortunately, 2 of holes for the rubber tire stops, im sure they have a better name than that, are in poor condition so I'll need to drill them out and add nutserts. Or size it up, I like the idea of matching hardware though.

Ready for paint.
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To save time and not be fully dumb, I take a 1/4-20 tap in a drill and run it into the snubber holes. That way I don't have to stock assorted length Allen head cap screws in both metric and SAE.
 
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Alex01 said:
Unfortunately, 2 of holes for the rubber tire stops, im sure they have a better name than that,
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Snubbers! And yes, they will look better drilled out with a nutsert and the same hardware. Looking good!
 
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someguysjeep said:
mar 7th and the tops off and it's outside ...........dammit i live in the wrong part of the country.


looks good, nice work.
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I got lucky with the weather. Its going to rain next week.
bobthetj03 said:
Looks like it's ready to see some action! Come on up for a shake down.
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I hoping I can get it out before moab. I'd rather find any issues now before its too late.

I need to go through the whole jeep in the next couple of days and check torque on everything. I don't need the TB losing a nut on a windy road, again.
 
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The final piece of the puzzle for this round arrived. (Other than a BCE that is) 2 weeks earlier than expected and but most importantly before @Chris who ordered his before me.

I spec'd them out with seat heaters so the wife will be happy. They are also toddler approved.
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@Alex01, looks great and the fact you did it all in that garage of yours makes it that much sweeter. Lastly, for the life of me, what does BCE mean?
 
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