As mentioned in my build thread, my current plans is to get it really nicely setup on 33s, do a full tuck, and go wheel the piss out of it while learning how to do the following mods with them being slowly more difficult, then once I am older and can afford it (within the next 2 years or so) jump to the midarm, 35s, outboard, and down the rabbit hole we go! Im still pretty young (18) but am lucky enough to have been taught welding when I was younger, so im not too afraid of busting out the MIG machine, but rather more afraid of messing anything up.
Alex01 Silver Sport Build Thread
- Thread starter Alex01
- Start date
measure 3x, put your hood on, get ready to tack it ................drop everything, take your hood back off check it 1 more time and then go for it
it's funny, once you have cut off a few pieces of perfectly good jeep, and weld new pieces of perfectly good jeep back on, suddenly things become a whole lot less daunting.
Alex, are you down there, I think your new 37's just showed upLOL, he's not even halfway down the rabbit hole.
OP
The front fenders are wired up. The 3 wire LED's that @JMT gave me a link for worked perfectly. I added an additional side marker LED in the same location as @DrDmoney, thanks for the inspiration.
Footnotes for anyone who may care:
2001 Sport -
Black on LED goes to Black on TJ
White on LED goes to Black Yellow on TJ
Red on LED goes to Grey (drivers side) Tan (Passenger side)
Footnotes for anyone who may care:
2001 Sport -
Black on LED goes to Black on TJ
White on LED goes to Black Yellow on TJ
Red on LED goes to Grey (drivers side) Tan (Passenger side)
Looks really good. I love it actually. I think it’s just the right diameter. The one underneath is just cool.
What hood latches are those? I’m in need of a good pair.
OP
They are the rugged ridge latches. They have a bit of sticker shock to them considering you can get knock-offs fairly cheap but the fit and finish is amazing and they are made of aluminum so they should last forever/not fade. Most importantly they keep locked and the oem weren't with the new fenders.
The one underneath is slick. I'm glad I looked back to Darren's thread. It was pretty simple also, you just need a 3/4" bit.
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OP
After doing a full bump test yesterday I found out that the track bar was hitting the diff. I took a play out of @jjvw's book and bent the TB a hair, thanks for the tips.
I can now get the tire up high enough to clear where the new bumps will be set. The new limiting factor is the area on the diff you'd attach a spreader, so unless I move the mount like jjvw I'm maxed out.
I can now get the tire up high enough to clear where the new bumps will be set. The new limiting factor is the area on the diff you'd attach a spreader, so unless I move the mount like jjvw I'm maxed out.
Blaine clearanced that area so my track bar will clear the spreader spot. I’ll take pics tomorrow
OP
Thanks, that'd be awesome. I dont really need the clearance since I'm slightly over where the bumps will be set but I'd like to see it. Couldn't hurt I suppose to shave it a hair. If I lost a bump stop somehow a fender is cheaper than an axle / TB.
OP
If I pull the axle back then I'll hit the rear fender wall at full articulation with the tire. I'm barely skimming the rear fender wall as it is, tires are at 25 psi. I don't necessarily need any more up travel since I'm about .5" past where the bumps will need to be set currently.
If I wanted the room though I bet I could lower the pinion angle a bit and get a bit more out of it. I'm not binding currently. Do you think it's worth drooping the axle and adjusting the pinion angle until I start binding then bring it back a hair? I'm just nervous doing so will induce vibs and since I've already messed around with both axles it's going to be fun dialing it back in.
OP
I'm at about 10 on the pinion and the bump will need to be set just under 3".
I measured my shocks also and I could lower them 1.25" to get back the full range of motion but that will be a project for another day.
I measured my shocks also and I could lower them 1.25" to get back the full range of motion but that will be a project for another day.
OP
That looks pretty simple. It looks like it still has a decent amount of depth, my biggest concern would be that my case spreader would no longer work. The guy who geared my diff used paper-thin shims so I need the spreader in order to get everything back in after taking it apart.
OP
The savvy tailgate skin and valance arrived. Does anyone know if the handle or lock cylinder have any adjustment? Or, is sanding going to be the solution.
That’s really crappy. They had to have made a mistake.