AndyG looking for lift love

AndyG

AndyG

Because some other guys are perverts
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Jul 30, 2018
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Alabama
Need your help gang -

06 Rubi, it was someone's work in progress, so this is how I found it-

It has 2" coil spring spacers all around, and everything else is stock.

It still had the factory rake, and a 16" tire that measures 32" tall, so I removed the front springs and replaced them with a Moog C772 for a Grand Cherokee @pagrey recommended. It leveled it up,the front axle is 3/16 left ,so it's 3/32 off center, so I'm comfortable with the stock track bar and the front to rear wheel distance on each side is the same.

So here is what is going on-

After the springs I reset the toe. The wheel was off center an Inch and she pulled pretty good to the left.

I centered the wheel, and as @Mr. Blaine has stated it will, it now holds center well, with only just enough left pull to be considered cross caster.

The ride is somewhat harsher on a medium, less than train track bump than it was , but other wise good. Tires at 28 psi.

No vibes. None . Stock gears.

POINT OF THE THREAD:

Based on what I have explained, should I hold tight where I am, remove the 2" pucks, or get a real lift kit -

Nothing is horribly wrong, I just don't know what the combination of stock rear springs ,2" taller front springs, and 2" spacers means in terms of consequences.

I haven't had it aligned since this, but it was machine aligned just prior and drove stock...the rake weighted the front tires.

In my definition, and I have driven a lot of these, a really good lifted TJ can drive really good , and while it may even be better than stock, it won't "feel" the same because most of us change the weight bias toward the back more. A stock TJ tracks very well if it is in good shape.

Also ,I want to give a shout out to @pagrey for offering the Grand Cherokee spring suggestion, based on what I did tonight, I would do this to level one again in a heartbeat. I am pledging to " like"3 of his posts within 30 days, whether I really do or not. If that isn't a debt of gratitude, I don't know what is.

Thanks , please try to get the gist of this .. I don't know everything ...I try to act like I do all the time , but I don't , and there a a lot of lift variables out there.

The goal with this vehicle is to have a solid Rubicon with less than $10,000 in it.

I'm at 9500.00.

It has a brand new Spice Bestop, Mickey Thompson Deegan Wheels, Banks cat back system, near new Mickey Thompson tires, Pioneer Stereo, a brand new 8000lb Warn Winch with synthetic cable , the controller has never been out of the zip ties, 4" led driving lights ,KC light over at for the front bumper, a few other things I'm ashamed to admit, and is mechanically solid, it's "all there" so to speak...not thrashed . Everything works.

I think they thought it had a ruined locker...the air line was off.

It is AndyG's Rubicon Project #3 on the build threads.

It's not a typical great TJR by our strict grading system, and won't make the Registry of Fine Rubicon's @Starrs and I have been commissioned to govern, but here in Alabama the locals are going crazy over it.


Thanks,
Andy
 
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Get some longer, better riding shocks and be done with it. The tires for 16" wheels are usually E rated and harsh IMO. The first thing I did after buying my Rubicon was switch to 15" wheels.
 
TheBoogieman said:
Get some longer, better riding shocks and be done with it. The tires for 16" wheels are usually E rated and harsh IMO. The first thing I did after buying my Rubicon was switch to 15" wheels.
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Man I love you guys... It does have stock shocks. I should have realized it was a problem that I was gate.

You are correct about the tires.

Driving at this morning I can tell it needs more caster.

I'm going to get some ranchos, dial in caster , and we'll trade wheels and tires if I find someone interested.

I've got 15 in wheels and C range tires on my other Rubicon and understand you.

Good Job guys.
 
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mrblaine said:
Can you expound on that some? What exactly do you mean by the rake weighted the front tires?
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Well, what I'm going to do is probably get corrected, I made that statement thinking raising the rear transfers the weight bias forward.

I'm also thinking/ wondering if the taller springs changed my caster to less and if that's why it feels lighter/less planted now ,as opposed to my rake theory.

Please hit me gently, I know just enough to know I don't know a lot.
 
AndyG said:
Well, what I'm going to do is probably get corrected, I made that statement thinking raising the rear transfers the weight bias forward.

I'm also thinking/ wondering if the taller springs changed my caster to less and if that's why it feels lighter/less planted now ,as opposed to my rake theory.

Please hit me gently, I know just enough to know I don't know a lot.
Click to expand...

There is weight transfer that happens. There is weight transfer that happens when the vehicle has one end higher than the other. There is weight transfer that happens when the vehicle stops or starts.

There is weight transfer that happens when you add or remove weight from one end.

The weight transfer that happens when one end is lower than the other by some small amount is slightly the other side of negligible and easily determined with a set of scales if you are of a mind to actually find out.

That and leveling is dumb, very dumb and yeah, I see ya'll fuckers talking about, trying to change it, patting each other on the back when ya'll wet all over yourselves when you do it, but that don't change how dumb it is.
 
mrblaine said:
There is weight transfer that happens. There is weight transfer that happens when the vehicle has one end higher than the other. There is weight transfer that happens when the vehicle stops or starts.

There is weight transfer that happens when you add or remove weight from one end.

The weight transfer that happens when one end is lower than the other by some small amount is slightly the other side of negligible and easily determined with a set of scales if you are of a mind to actually find out.

That and leveling is dumb, very dumb and yeah, I see ya'll fuckers talking about, trying to change it, patting each other on the back when ya'll wet all over yourselves when you do it, but that don't change how dumb it is.
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What negative consequences does it have and why do you avoid it .
 
mrblaine said:
Rake the wrong direction when you actually put something in it to go have fun with it. Or haul anything home from the store. Or put a passenger in it.
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Makes sense. This one had beyond factory rake it appeared , just off the hip, but everything is random when you buy these, like a box of chocolates.

It also has 5AA Mopar rear springs in the left side measures 5/8 shorter ....is the smart fix a new left spring or 2 new rear or something else?
 
AndyG said:
Makes sense. This one had beyond factory rake it appeared , just off the hip, but everything is random when you buy these, like a box of chocolates.

It also has 5AA Mopar rear springs in the left side measures 5/8 shorter ....is the smart fix a new left spring or 2 new rear or something else?
Click to expand...
Swap the springs side for side first to make sure that the problem follows the spring and isn't a tweaked frame.
 
Glad the front springs worked out. I use airlift springs in the back. I don't worry too much about rake but when I camp I carry a water tank and sometimes tow. The air springs mean I don't have to adjust my headlights or drag my bumper. Obviously they wont do much for the lean.
 
AndyG said:
The goal with this vehicle is to have a solid Rubicon with less than $10,000 in it.
I'm at 9500.00.
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I said the same thing when I bought my 03' for $9500. That was a steal around here. I did a BL and said I was done. Then I got a 0% interest credit card. :p

RUBI BL (2017_11_20 00_38_12 UTC).jpg
 
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