Another re-gear question

[pagrey]

Sounds like you've got a pretty good game plan. Personally I just don't see how spending 1/4 the cost of your Jeep on just regearing makes any sense for what you describe. Just hit that O/D button for a week and see if it's really worth three thousand dollars. The RPMs on the freeway at 65mph will be within 100rpm after regearing with O/D on as they are today with the O/D button pressed. Almost zero differene on the freeway. Press the button and see for yourself if you like driving on the freeway at 2300rpm. Sure you'll get some extra power around town but I that's allot of money to blow for that.

 

[Fouledplugs]

Yo

Okay so as a game plan...

Should I keep my Dana 35 / Dana 30 combo and regear to 5.13

To strengthen my Dana 35 should I do the Super 35 kit (some links would help)
Also I know that the super 35 kit usually comes with a locker because it changes the carrier. So without breaking the bank too bad what is my best option. Remember, im not a rock crawler or any crazy trail type of driver. I am a highway commuter and a weekend minor trail driver. I drive in the snow for half the year so I would like some full time drivability traction but I would like to stay away from lunchbox lockers.

I have saved $3000 for the job and my local shop charges $500 per axle plus parts. So im getting close to that number.

You might be able to save some money by having Dutchman Axle build your your Super 35 axles shafts.

They are built in the USA using domestic material versus Revolution’s axle shafts, which are built overseas somewhere.

Dutchman builds them in 27, 29, or 30 spline and are forged 1541 shafts.

Two shafts in any bolt pattern - $280 with studs pressed in for you.

Anyone know how much the Revolution import axles are? They may be cheaper. But if IIRC, it was cheaper to go with Dutchman.

 

[Fouledplugs]

Here is a Super 35 kit with an e-locker:
https://www.4lowparts.com/shop/super-35-rear-axle-kit-eaton-e-locker-Dana 35-30spl/
You may be able to find a better price elsewhere, or by buying the Super 35 kit and the locker separately.

Here’s a Super 35 kit without a locker:
https://www.revolutiongear.com/prod..._tj_cherokee_xj_30_spline_upgrade_super35_kit
If you’re willing to invest some more in the front now, there’s also a Super 30 kit that will strengthen that axle as well. It’s not as necessary though.

For the same price you could get shafts built in the USA. Just an option.

 

[Fouledplugs]

Remember, im not a rock crawler or any crazy trail type of driver. I am a highway commuter and a weekend minor trail driver.

Based off this, I would skip the super Dana 35.

 

[RYAN17]

Based off this, I would skip the super Dana 35.

Okay will a dana 35 be okay with a limited slip without the super 35 kit?
I just figured that it suits my type of driving better than a locker but dont want my Dana 35 to blow up

 

[Vinman]

Deeper gearing will also help prolong the life of the transmission, for three major reasons:

1. The torque converter will lock up sooner and at lower speeds, and will remain locked for longer. When the torque converter is unlocked, a significant amount of mechanical energy is wasted as heat. (Hence why fuel economy is better with a locking torque converter.) Generally speaking, the hotter a transmission runs, the shorter its life will be.
2. The additional rotational speed of the transmission will increase fluid flow through the transmission cooler, helping to reduce the temperature of the transmission, and also helping to heat it in cold weather.
3. Less slip will be required from the torque converter during acceleration from a standstill. This is due to the gearing reducing the overall torque demands on the transmission. The overall reduced torque demands can also extend the life of the clutch packs in the transmission.

This all the way.
My first Rubicon was on 35’s and after I finally regeared to 5.13’s, the tranny temps went down approximately 20 degrees across all conditions and fuel economy went up, in fact, the best fuel mileage I ever got with that Jeep was with 5.13’s and 35’s, even better than when it was completely stock.

 

[Jamison C]

Okay will a dana 35 be okay with a limited slip without the super 35 kit?
I just figured that it suits my type of driving better than a locker but dont want my Dana 35 to blow up

Yes. The Dana 35 gets a bad rap because people hammer it expecting it to endure the abuse a Dana 60 can handle, and then bitch when they break an axle shaft. It’s a perfectly stout axle in stock form, and would do just fine with the type of use you plan for your Jeep.

My old Jeep had a Dana 35 with an LSD and 4.56 gears. I did some mild rock crawling, forest service roads, and tons of freeway time taking trips to different places. It held up just fine and went wherever I needed it to go.

 

[Goatman]

I wouldn't go super 35 for running 33" tires. Save your money there. But DEFINITELY gear properly for your transmission. Disabling the OD does not do you any favors. You need to have the engine and trans working together to perform at it's best. That is the reason the factory used different gearing depending on what engine/trans you bought. Getting the correct gears makes every circumstance of driving more efficient and will increase the drive train's longevity.