Any advice on installing Currie 4” at home?


Queticon

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yeah if you can't get a 2 or 4 post lift this is good way to go. I knew I needed 2 car storage so I did the 4 post lift, cost of the lift itself was about the same. Then it needs to be installed, chances are you need to lift the garage door tracks to a front torsion spring so that adds up.
Definitely 'dream garage' territory ;)

4-post is the way to go. I'd have to tear down my 100 y.o. garage to install something like that.
 
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dogbreath650

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Autozone loans out spring compressors. The ones that work good are called McPherson strut compressors. It's basically 2 threaded rods with clamps that lock on to the outside of the springs. They make the job a lot easier.
 

B00mb00m

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passing on a tip that Blaine gave me, if you're using the Currie bumpstop don't over torque that bolt it will rip right through. Use some loctite there. On the bottom i believe there is a air gap under the rubber pad where the bolt goes through, stack some washers under there so when you tight the screw it has something to squeeze against. Do all the cycling with bumpstops in but not springs.

Are you doing a Tummy Tuck also?
 
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ARawls88

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passing on a tip that Blaine gave me, if you're using the Currie bumpstop don't over torque that bolt it will rip right through. Use some loctite there. On the bottom i believe there is a air gap under the rubber pad where the bolt goes through, stack some washers under there so when you tight the screw it has something to squeeze against. Do all the cycling with bumpstops in but not springs.

Are you doing a Tummy Tuck also?
Didn’t plan on it. Why do you ask?
 

gaabbee

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Have fun with the rear shock bolts if you never replaced them before. You may want to search the threads on here for that. Also read the threads about setting the adjustable control arms up. I found the starting measurements to be uh short. Get some quality drill bits. The front spring perches are pretty thick. Overall not too bad, the worst part was the rear shocks.
 

WHBNM

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passing on a tip that Blaine gave me, if you're using the Currie bumpstop don't over torque that bolt it will rip right through. Use some loctite there. On the bottom i believe there is a air gap under the rubber pad where the bolt goes through, stack some washers under there so when you tight the screw it has something to squeeze against. Do all the cycling with bumpstops in but not springs.

Are you doing a Tummy Tuck also?
Good advice. Be ginger then check often.
 
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ARawls88

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Okay guys... apparently the camber bolts had never been removed since the jeep left the factory... now with adjustable arms... is the slot still necessary or can it be welded up and drill a single hole? Or should I just buy aftermarket brackets and be done with these?
B279E58B-0072-4D21-B8EB-63A76409B9AA.jpeg
 
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someguysjeep

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if replacing the bracket isn't really an option for you. at least consider some weld washers, they can be placed and welded on to restore that connection point. or thick hardened washers, and weld those on.
others will tell you it's all just torque to hold a connection, but i'd not put that to the test with that amount of potential slop.
 
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ARawls88

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if replacing the bracket isn't really an option for you. at least consider some weld washers, they can be placed and welded on to restore that connection point. or thick hardened washers, and weld those on.
others will tell you it's all just torque to hold a connection, but i'd not put that to the test with that amount of potential slop.
No I’m not wanting to half ass it as this point. It’s not my DD so I have time to wait for parts. I’m going to order the brackets. I just couldn’t believe those dang bolts were seized that bad.
 
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ARawls88

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Got everything mocked up with the control arms to curries spec/ recommendation, not real happy with how this looks honestly. Axle needs to come forward but Currie states no more than 3/4” of threads to be showing and I’m there. Thoughts?
image.jpg
 

gaabbee

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I extended mine. I think Currie says 15 3/4 inch? I think mine are over 16. Especially in the rear. Just watch for clearance issues....you should probably take the springs back out and cycle the suspension as you extend them.
 
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someguysjeep

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it's not about where it sits in that position it's how it's gonna hit/line up with those upper bump stops. that's the correct position for the axle.
 
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ARawls88

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I extended mine. I think Currie says 15 3/4 inch? I think mine are over 16. Especially in the rear. Just watch for clearance issues....you should probably take the springs back out and cycle the suspension as you extend them.
You’re correct at 15.75”. I figured I would have to extend them. I’m going to disassemble tomorrow evening and push it out to my liking. Did you by chance measure how much thread is in the arm after adjusting yours?
 

gaabbee

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it's not about where it sits in that position it's how it's gonna hit/line up with those upper bump stops. that's the correct position for the axle.
Currie's numbers are just a starting point. My axles did not line up with the bump stops at first. Each application has different variables. To the op make sure your bump stops are lined up and you are not hitting the track bar. I did not measure the thread length. I did un-screw them though they have a lot of thread inside the arm that I felt comfortable doing it.
 
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ARawls88

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Currie's numbers are just a starting point. My axles did not line up with the bump stops at first. Each application has different variables. To the op make sure your bump stops are lined up and you are not hitting the track bar. I did not measure the thread length. I did un-screw them though they have a lot of thread inside the arm that I felt comfortable doing it.
I hate that they put that in the notes. I’m sure it’s for liability reasons, I’m going to give them a call tomorrow also and discuss it with them.