Wonder how it compares to a real axle company like Crane.
i would think most all oem inner cs are forged.
Sweet baby Jesus....I just looked at Cranes 40 spline 80, running 2" axles. Definitely overkill for me, but wow!
Wonder how it compares to a real axle company like Crane.
i would think most all oem inner cs are forged.
Second point is what I'm thinking. I'd rather sell the front and rear as a working pair and move on. They've served me extremely well for many years, but now it's time to add some additional strength and peace of mind.
There 80 also accepts 47 spline Rockwell and 47 spline outers with their magnum knuckle.Sweet baby Jesus....I just looked at Cranes 40 spline 80, running 2" axles. Definitely overkill for me, but wow!
There’s better companies that sell more sought after full floater 9 stuff for the offroad world.As looks like stock rubi axles routinely go for 3k+ your setup should put you well into your next.
Simplistic view (and nothing jeep is simple) but likely cover most of 35 spline rear and 3rd of your choice (http://www.9inchfloater.com/CompleteRrEnd/CmplteRrEnd_35_40.htm https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/WC935ARB.html)
Numerous. Neither of those are on my short list. Just examples of the options and combinations available once one jumps into the rabbit hole. And opens the wallet of course!There’s better companies that sell more sought after full floater 9 stuff for the offroad world.
They why did you link them? That was stupid.Numerous. Neither of those are on my short list. Just examples of the options and combinations available once one jumps into the rabbit hole. And opens the wallet of course!
Ball joints seem to be the problem. I wouldn't say it's bigger ( the C). They were run on 3/4 ton trucks.What inner c would you go with? A wrangler c is larger than an older 44 c.
Then your assuming and your wrong.Ball joints seem to be the problem. I wouldn't say it's bigger ( the C). They were run on 3/4 ton trucks.
I stand corrected. I'm here to learn too. I just don't hear about constant ball joint issues from the people I know running the old 44's. That what I based my opinion on. Rulers don't lie so I guess I owe you a beer.Then your assuming and your wrong.
I have a ford hp44 and a Jeep lp 44 sitting in front of me. as well as a low pinion later model 30(03tj)
The 8 lug hp44 and 6 lug lp44 both measure the same.
9.5 separation. And ~7.250 ball joint separation.
the tj 30 measures~10” separation and ~9” of ball joint separation.
the inner c thickness is similar but the Dana 30 looks slightly thicker.
So where you get your info? That’s what’s bad about forums. People talking about stuff they have never seen and assume because back in 70s and 80s and on 3/4 ton stuff it’s bigger and stronger.
To your point about balljoints. Would a 4340 all metal ball joint not take the abuse of a 37 in hardcore(the dirty south) wheeling?
What do you think that Jeep in the vid I linked is running? And no one on this forum is beating their shit like he is. No one.
Not designed for Jeeps. The center section is overly bulky gauging with the eye only. Plus the post mentions wheelie bars. It’s likely designed for drag racing.this came up the other day, maybe yall might have some interest.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/277003049941606/?surface=product_details
Not to mention ball joint eliminators. They are available for the older Dana 44 stuff. I’m not sure he has them built for the Dana 30 inner knuckles used in the TJ/LJ Jeep Rubicon Dana 44.I stand corrected. I'm here to learn too. I just don't hear about constant ball joint issues from the people I know running the old 44's. That what I based my opinion on. Rulers don't lie so I guess I owe you a beer.
Honestly, I would think that any axle builder who has a buyer that is constantly eating/destroying balljoints is going to tell the client to move up to a proper solution, which is likely a one ton setup. Example; 37 inch plus tires. Currie reccomends a one ton for anything over 37’s.
Your good. But the reason you hear more about 30 ball joints over old 44 joints is the fact that 30s and 43s are more common.I stand corrected. I'm here to learn too. I just don't hear about constant ball joint issues from the people I know running the old 44's. That what I based my opinion on. Rulers don't lie so I guess I owe you a beer.
Although Currie didnt mention it to you, in a front application, a one ton knuckle can be used on a 9 center “seamlessly”. Its called a 609 and it still pretty popular. You can use a kingpin 60 inner and outer knuckle or a balljoint inner and outer knuckle. But as mentioned its a pretty expensive solution, as the Dana 60 fits the bill pretty nicely as a more “affordable,” solution.I guess it depends on who you talk to there. When I called Currie and told them my requirements, they suggested the 9" combo would be good for up to 37s. To their credit, they did tell me that they didn't have a HD outer option for the 9" front, but said they've sold the pair to people who are running them on 37s with no issues. I guess that begs the question how are they using their Jeep/s?
Not designed for Jeeps. The center section is overly bulky gauging with the eye only. Plus the post mentions wheelie bars. It’s likely designed for drag racing.
A Currie 9 or Moser 9 built for drag racing is quiet different than what they offer for off road vehicles. The drag/road type 9’s centers are usually built with ground clearance as an afterthought, not a focus.
Spidertrax is builder/planner friendly, they are transparent in their dimensions. They provide high res dimension drawings on their site/webstore on all their parts and housings,which takes all the guesswork out of a build plan.
Back to the original post and idea.There's a lot of beef here. At this point I'm having a more fundamental problem justifying the $1700+ to move to a full float rear on a Dana 60. My guess is if I'm okay with a 44/60 combo, a semi float rear would be more than sufficient. I like the idea of a lighter 9" combo, but the price is the same or more depending on upgrades.
Back to the original post and idea.
So your thinking of going to a new Currie 9 and still retain the Dana 30 outers? I thought the 30 outers are currently keeping you maxed at a 37” tire. Sound silly to spend money changing a center section. I would keep saving and get a hp44 with standard or aftermarket knuckles. They can withstand more abuse and a larger tire. Bleepin Jeep runs a 40” sticky and wheels it fairly hard on an old school hp44.
Is your current 44 a high pinion?