Arizona Rock Crawler

My dad just gave me his old set of 33” BFGs indefinitely so I will probably put off my 35s upgrade as long I can since my BFGs are still good and I’ve essentially got 3 good spares now. I need to shift my financial priority to saving for a house and something shiny for my girlfriends finger this year.

I like that my Jeep has been built from the ground up, paying attention to details, and tucking everything up I can. It’s an extremely capable and balanced Jeep for being on 3” suspension lift and 33s. I may get the itch to throw on my Currie coils once @Chris does his outboard and sells me his old fox shocks later this fall.

I know how some people feel about 3” Savvy springs 😉

I am impressed you’ve managed to find almost everything used!
 
I know how some people feel about 3” Savvy springs 😉

I am impressed you’ve managed to find almost everything used!
Haha yeah! Lots of stuff used. You better be careful, I might end up buying so much stuff from you you’ll have to pay taxes on it 🤣
 
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Another one...
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took the Jeep wheelin this past weekend with the new antirock and steering! I can’t believe I went this long without the antirock. It makes such a difference in stability. One of my favorite parts was how it felt going fast through the rough fire roads. The Jeep now just floats through everything whereas disconnected the front axle felt too loose and floppy while going fast.

I have the AR on the middle of the 3 holes (new AR got rid of the front 2 holes). I still want to test it and be sure I am getting all my travel out of it. We were in a hurry while wheeling so I never was able to get out and see how much travel I was using. Maybe I can find a forklift 🤔
 
took the Jeep wheelin this past weekend with the new antirock and steering! I can’t believe I went this long without the antirock. It makes such a difference in stability. One of my favorite parts was how it felt going fast through the rough fire roads. The Jeep now just floats through everything whereas disconnected the front axle felt too loose and floppy while going fast.

I have the AR on the middle of the 3 holes (new AR got rid of the front 2 holes). I still want to test it and be sure I am getting all my travel out of it. We were in a hurry while wheeling so I never was able to get out and see how much travel I was using. Maybe I can find a forklift 🤔
Interesting, I've been contemplating the AR for a long time. Good feedback here
 
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Lookin' good. I've had Currie springs in my closet since May. I'm just not ready to open the can of worms that installing them would cause for my setup :oops:
 
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Lookin' good. I've had Currie springs in my closet since May. I'm just not ready to open the can of worms that installing them would cause for my setup :oops:
What can of worms is that?
 
What can of worms is that?

Trackbar hitting the gas tank once I adjust the pinion angle. The pinion angle is a bit low for my 3 inch springs to the point the track bar barely clears. I could make it work, but since I only have a parking garage to work in, it is a bit hard. I have the Savvy tuck which makes my pinion angle even more steep.
 
Trackbar hitting the gas tank once I adjust the pinion angle. The pinion angle is a bit low for my 3 inch springs to the point the track bar barely clears. I could make it work, but since I only have a parking garage to work in, it is a bit hard. I have the Savvy tuck which makes my pinion angle even more steep.
Interesting. I’ve got the UCF ultra high tuck and 3” lift right now and trackbar isn’t close to the tank but I did have to trim the crossmember a little bit to fit the trackbar. I’ll most likely trim it just a little bit more when the springs go on or maybe I won’t have to since I’ll have more bumpstop with longer shocks. This weekend will tell! Do you have a savvy gas tank skid?
 
Interesting. I’ve got the UCF ultra high tuck and 3” lift right now and trackbar isn’t close to the tank but I did have to trim the crossmember a little bit to fit the trackbar. I’ll most likely trim it just a little bit more when the springs go on or maybe I won’t have to since I’ll have more bumpstop with longer shocks. This weekend will tell! Do you have a savvy gas tank skid?

I have a savvy GTS with a completely stock crossmember. I wouldn't be too scared honestly. It can be made to work but it is just out of my wheelhouse due to the tools and equipment I have to work on the Jeep (a parking garage where I can only do quick work). With the Savvy TT, some have rotated mounts on the axle to keep everything in line and others have found that a quick trim works out. With a little time and persistence you'll find something that works.
 
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Update on the Currie coil install:
Got the front end in. I’m really happy I don’t have the rear wall issue like @jjvw . At least with the 11” ranchos and stock mounts I don’t.
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I did a little trimming on the fenders and at articulation I have full steering lock to lock without hitting anything. This is largely due to my hub kit increasing the track width.
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The front coils are so long I ended up using a spring compressor to help me get them in. The black magic sway bar mounts definitely make putting springs back in a little more challenging. I have these god awful rough country control arms that are “beefy as hell” and run into the shock mount preventing me from dropping the axle far enough. I would just unbolt the lowers at the axle side but I don’t have Blaine’s magic washers and don’t want to mess up what they are set at. Can’t remove from the frame side either because I can only get the joint back in at full stuff because it’s so big and that would be impossible with springs in. I only needed the springs to compress a few inches more and got them in.

After getting them in though I realize why Curries bumpstops are so nice. The bumpstop cup strums the coil so hard at droop that I ended up just ordering Currie bumps. I had the stops set with 2” on the bottom pad and 7/8” extension on the jounce tower. I realize I could probably put all the extension on the bottom and maybe avoid the problem but I’d rather just use Currie. Rear end coming up soon!
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Well it’s on all 4 wheels and driving again! So far everything feels normal. Crazy how much smaller the 35s look with the Currie coils on.

Before I wheel it I need to install the Currie bumpstops front and rear. I wanted to get the pinion angle and trackbars set first before I tear it back down to do the final cycle anyways.

I’m also going to add a shock relocation bracket to the rear. I have the longest rear shocks rancho makes in the 5000x and I still have 6.5” of uptravel in the shocks and therefore 3.2” down travel. The brackets should make a better spread of the shock and make them more like 5.5” up and 4.2” down.
 
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I’ll post my thoughts as I drive the Jeep more and dial everything in. Here’s my impressions and some details of the Jeep on the pavement so far.

The MT/Rs-
Noise: slight hum only with the windows down compared to my AT tires. Not annoying in the slightest, just sounds like a badass rig rolling down the road.

Gearing: I’m surprised that the Jeep doesn’t feel that undergeared with 35s and my 4.56 gears. If this were just a pavement princess I wouldn’t bother regearing but we will see if me and my 231 are saying that once I take it wheeling. Will most likely go to 5.13s eventually.

Comfort: very comfortable tire. Maybe slightly rougher feeing when taking turns but at this point I’m just trying to be sensitive and pick on something. They feel great. Rocking 24 PSI since I have a light Jeep.

Braking power: I was very curious about this one stepping up to 35s. My brakes used to suck with 33s until I stepped up to Black magic pads. I couldn’t lock the wheels up at all before. With the BM pads I could lock up my wheels at 70 mph. I know because there was an accident in front of me a few weeks ago. So thanks @mrblaine you saved my Jeep! Even with the 35s I can lock up the front wheels at 50mph and haven’t tested more than that but I am happy for now with the stock brakes and BM pads.

Currie springs-
Stance stats:
Lift gained: 4.5” front and rear
Belly height 21”
Frame rail height 22”

Handling: obviously not that much change since I am using rancho shocks still. The only effect I’ve felt is that I get a little more body roll around corners which is to be expected with how long and soft these coils are. I haven’t lengthened my rear sway bar links yet so that may help.

Angles:
My rear driveshaft went up 2* going from a 3” to 4.5” lift. DS now at 22.8* and I am vibe free setting my axle slope at 22.2* giving me a total of .6* at the ujoint. I haven’t cycled to deal with the trackbar yet but since the angle only changed 2* it will most likely be a matter of grinding down the crossmember a little bit more. I only had to shave like .5” off one area the way it was before.
I honestly feel like I’ve got cheat codes with this hub kit. I didn’t even have to change my change my angles. Right now The front driveshaft is at 12.5* and I’m running the pinion at 6.5* giving me 5.5* at the joint. But it doesn’t matter since the front DS will only see 30mph tops.

Shocks: I got the longest RS5000X I could and the front is literally perfect 50/50 split with 5.35” up and 5.35” downtravel for a total of 10.7” travel. This is with stock mounts.
The rear isn’t so perfectI already had the longest ranchos and just mounted the top of them up in the crossmember an inch higher than normal making them perfect for my 3” lift. Now mounted in the normal location the split is 6.6” uptravel and 3” downtravel. @BuildBreakRepeat volunteered his Currie relocation brackets which I hope change that split to more like 5.6” up and 4” down. If I want to get even closer to 50/50 I’ve thought about adding 1/2” spacers between the bar pin and the crossmember but I’m not sure if the added leverage could cause the bolts to break. What do you think @jjvw?

Bumpstops-
I still haven’t added the bumpstops yet but I’m excited to show how the Currie bumpstops allow significantly more articulation in the rear than stock. I’ll post comparisons to show the effect of the rounded bumpstop allowing the axle to roll onto the shock during articulation.
 
Lowering the rear upper shock mounts should be fine if that helps with the bias.
 
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