Axle U-Joints, Unit Bearings, Ball Joints?

[pcrawfordpt]

Long time Jeeper, took a few years off and now getting back into it. Last time out came home with the Angry Sparrows. Turned out to be the front DS Centering Yoke. I fixed that, however while searching for the noise I did discovered a little rattle (by hand) when I shake the front axle U-Joints (both). I assume this is not normal? If so, I will replace the axle u-joints. While I'm at it and have it all torn down, I figured I might as well replace the bearing units (Timken) as well. Now I'm thinking I should do the Ball Joints too? It a 1997, riding on 35's. The unit bearing and ball joints are stock from 1997. Fist of all, is the rattle by hand normal? If not I will replace, but should I replace everything else mentioned as well?

 

[pcoplin]

I can't tell what's loose and rattling by the video. How many miles on the Jeep?

I have a Jeep in here I did all 8 control arms on, and found the ball joints worn. 212k on it. Told him to get ujoints and unit bearings. He didn't. Ujoints were dry and needles falling out, both unit bearings had lots of play. So Jeep stuck on the rack while he got parts. Also got a track bar.

I would plan on all of it, depending on mileage. But at least do ujoints, unit bearing and ball joints are easy to check while you're there.

 

[AndyG]

In my opinion, at that age, on 35's, yes...basically every TJ on the road is suspect at this point ...grease can literally just evaporate it seems...or sling out . My 03 had 20,500 miles, was wheeled a lot with 35's and needed everything replaced or freshened up underneath . Everything. That's not typical of a TJ, but you show my one that's been wheeled with 35" tires that is 24 years old ...and I 'm going to say be thorough if you want durability and good performance.

 

[pcrawfordpt]

I've just decided to do them. Ordered two sets of Spicer 706944x ball joints. They have 110K and are 23 years old. While I've got it apart I might as well do it. Will have new ball joints, unit bearings (Timken) and u-joints (5-760x).

 

[Rubicon88]

Are you hearing a growling noise while driving?
A droning noise?
Sounds like a helicopter or plane?

If not your WB are fine.

Having said that odds are you'll ruin them removing to replace the u joint because you'll have to beat the shit out of it to get it off. Even if its not that old odds are someone didn't use wheel bearing grease or anti seize around it...or.. they're original.

Caliper off, rotor off, axle nut,
(3) 12 point fasteners...pending how long its been on there you'll need to beat the shit out of it to remove.
This thing makes life a deam removing the that WB.

Its like 3 minutes to get to the WB removing part and it's hammer time. (Odds are high)

As far as product...don't get caught up in Timken as some holy grail.
Moog, Napa (bearings and seals variety) Timken is ok too...but guess what...all three above all have a 3 year warranty

The cheaper lines like drive works, duralast, napa proformer are all complete junk. All have a 12k warranty.

These companies all share mfg facilities and specs and materials. They get different boxes, paint, etc...but make no mistake there aren't really 50 brands of wheel bearings out there each with different mfg.

If it were me...
Everyone as an advance near them. Get moog in case you do have a warranty claim. (You won't) but in the event you do it's quick and easy to take care of it.

 

[pcoplin]

Are you hearing a growling noise while driving?
A droning noise?
Sounds like a helicopter or plane?

If not your WB are fine.

Having said that odds are you'll ruin them removing to replace the u joint because you'll have to beat the shit out of it to get it off. Even if its not that old odds are someone didn't use wheel bearing grease or anti seize around it...or.. they're original.

Caliper off, rotor off, axle nut,
(3) 12 point fasteners...pending how long its been on there you'll need to beat the shit out of it to remove.
This thing makes life a deam removing the that WB.
View attachment 226702

Its like 3 minutes to get to the WB removing part and it's hammer time. (Odds are high)

There's no need to ruin anything getting the wheel bearings out. Put a 2.5 inch wide tube, a big bolt, whatever behind the outer stub axle and the inner C and use the steering wheel to push the bearing out.

 

[Rubicon88]

There's no need to ruin anything getting the wheel bearings out. Put a 2.5 inch wide tube, a big bolt, whatever behind the outer stub axle and the inner C and use the steering wheel to push the bearing out.

Yep...or you can beat on the 12 point bolts with 12 point socket too and drive it out

But those littke tricks don't always work. At least not in my rust belt neck of the woods.

 

[Irun]

I've just decided to do them. Ordered two sets of Spicer 706944x ball joints. They have 110K and are 23 years old. While I've got it apart I might as well do it. Will have new ball joints, unit bearings (Timken) and u-joints (5-760x).

Good call on replacing it all. As @AndyG said, given the age of the vehicle, it makes sense to replace it all with quality parts and be done!

 

[AndyG]

The snag is they can look fine....but you can't tell.

 

[F Troop]

Long time Jeeper, took a few years off and now getting back into it. Last time out came home with the Angry Sparrows. Turned out to be the front DS Centering Yoke. I fixed that, however while searching for the noise I did discovered a little rattle (by hand) when I shake the front axle U-Joints (both). I assume this is not normal? If so, I will replace the axle u-joints. While I'm at it and have it all torn down, I figured I might as well replace the bearing units (Timken) as well. Now I'm thinking I should do the Ball Joints too? It a 1997, riding on 35's. The unit bearing and ball joints are stock from 1997. Fist of all, is the rattle by hand normal? If not I will replace, but should I replace everything else mentioned as well?

That’s my game plan in the spring.

 

[Ocho]

That’s my game plan in the spring.

you and me both.. gotta save up a bit before then. the labor quote i got makes me really miss having my own garage to work in

 

[eastbloc]

In some other post about ujoints i was praising ujoint removal kit from advanced autoparts, worked like a charm on driveshaft ...
2 weeks ago i used it on axle shaft and bent the fuck out of the ears.
I finally found the reason to upgrade axle shafts. You be mindful, which ever method you chose to use to drive those ujoints in and out, don't go ape shit on it.

 

[qslim]

I've just decided to do them. Ordered two sets of Spicer 706944x ball joints. They have 110K and are 23 years old. While I've got it apart I might as well do it. Will have new ball joints, unit bearings (Timken) and u-joints (5-760x).

Changing the ball joints really isn't that bad, especially with the OTC 7249 tool set. Worked perfectly, I started around 8am & was completely done by around 11am.

 

[Lou]

In some other post about ujoints i was praising ujoint removal kit from advanced autoparts, worked like a charm on driveshaft ...
2 weeks ago i used it on axle shaft and bent the fuck out of the ears.
I finally found the reason to upgrade axle shafts. You be mindful, which ever method you chose to use to drive those ujoints in and out, don't go ape shit on it.

The key is to push only one cap out at a time with the u joint body. There are specialized pullers to do this but a BFH works wonderful. Pressing one u joint cap to press out the other side is a bad idea.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Changing the ball joints really isn't that bad, especially with the OTC 7249 tool set. Worked perfectly, I started around 8am & was completely done by around 11am.

Hah maybe but it more or less kicked my ass when I did mine 6-7 years ago when I was still a young man still in only my 60's. Mine were so tight that I had add a 4' jack handle onto the end of my 3' breaker bar to gain enough leverage to get the old ball joints out.

 

[qslim]

Hah maybe but it more or less kicked my ass when I did mine 6-7 years ago when I was still a young man still in only my 60's. Mine were so tight that I had add a 4' jack handle onto the end of my 3' breaker bar to gain enough leverage to get the old ball joints out.

Lol really? I guess I lucked out, I didn't need a cheater for any of them & I'm built like a 14 year old.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

Lol really? I guess I lucked out, I didn't need a cheater for any of them & I'm built like a 14 year old.

Mine were the factory joints and had never been replaced. Maybe yours had already been replaced, were yours the OE Spicer ball joints?

 

[pcrawfordpt]

Update: All done. Wasn't too bad of a job. I did PB Blast everything I could a few days before starting since everything has been there for 23 years. Getting the knuckles off was the worst part. Had to smack the crap out of them to get them off. The trick for the u-joints is the Harbor Freight ball joint press - just presses them in/out (just watch your alignment). The trick for the ball joints is the 7894 adapter kit (amazon) used with the Harbor Freight ball joint press. Best $30 you will spend. Kit has two pieces for removal, and two (one is wedge shaped) for perfect install. Took just a little over 5 hours for both sides. New axle u-joints, ball joints, unit bearings (hubs). Spent just over $250 in parts (Spicer and Timken), probably 10% of what a shop would charge. Go to Stu-Offroad.com for tutorials. Good for another 100K miles!

 

[pcrawfordpt]

Hah maybe but it more or less kicked my ass when I did mine 6-7 years ago when I was still a young man still in only my 60's. Mine were so tight that I had add a 4' jack handle onto the end of my 3' breaker bar to gain enough leverage to get the old ball joints out.

I feel the pain Jerry...the old bod is a little sore today...lol. I was able to do everything with hand tools. West coast jeeps are a little more forgiving without all that rust.

 

[pcrawfordpt]

The key is to push only one cap out at a time with the u joint body. There are specialized pullers to do this but a BFH works wonderful. Pressing one u joint cap to press out the other side is a bad idea.

This is important - watch the press and make sure you leave part of the following cap in the yoke. That way it is properly aligned to be pressed out when you flip it over to do that cap. I used hand tools, no impact. I think you can use impact for removal, but I would recommend hand tools for installation.