Last I checked, those were not sealed, did you find some that are?
Basic wiring connector and terminal questions, product related
- Thread starter mrblaine
- Start date
Last I checked, those were not sealed, did you find some that are?
Unfortunately, I had to learn the hard way. When I started in racing at Harley-Davidson, I ended up being the electronics engineer (I'm a mechanical engineer) solely because we were a small group and no one else wanted to take on that responsibility. I stopped using solder in our first season with the VR 1000 after a DNF caused by vibration-induced breakage of a critical wire at a solder joint. It's a really shitty feeling when you're the guy that caused the DNF!
To answer
To answer your original question, I'm comfortable using the connectors you showed in Post #23 above.
To answer your original question, I'm comfortable using the connectors you showed in Post #23 above.
I don't have any help for you. As I've learned as I've gotten older and done more projects, solder sucks, crimps are better, quality crimps with a matching plier and terminal system are better yet...but my path to get there did not include reading it in instructions with a product I've purchase.
You might provide the correct butt splices with instructions to purchase or borrow the correct pliers. Include instructions on how and why to do it the way you recommend, and put in BIG BOLD LETTERS that unless the instructions are followed, caveat emptor. I know that isn't your style though...and I don't really know how to get you where you can provide the 100% solution that you can fully back.
You might provide the correct butt splices with instructions to purchase or borrow the correct pliers. Include instructions on how and why to do it the way you recommend, and put in BIG BOLD LETTERS that unless the instructions are followed, caveat emptor. I know that isn't your style though...and I don't really know how to get you where you can provide the 100% solution that you can fully back.
CreepinDeth
TJ Addict
I use it routinely.
You just space it out properly before crimping ea end of the crimp
Just installed my LED headlights and had to splice in some new wire as the OEM was degraded and too short. Used the metal butt connector, crimped both 1 at a time, and shrinked.
It may not be obvious why this matters so much. I'm going to offer a lifetime guarantee against light failure. I have faith in my suppliers, my products and how I do things so I'd really like to make sure that folks will do their part to help that along.
Same type of crimper as the wirefly here and just added one of these for heat shrink as it’s a bit easier to get into small places. Used it once so far and works pretty well.
As my father In-law used to say..."Who's lifetime; mine or the product?" LOL.
alittleoff
TJ Addict
I didn't see it mentioned but, i've always used the solider less, insulated crimp connectors with a dab of dielectric grease inside of the connector before I use my ratchet style crimper.
I don't remember when the Savvy Black Anodized LED tail lights came out but I connected them that way and haven't had any problems with them. Or any other connection before that.
If I think it calls for shrink tube, I'll use that or I'll just use black tape to seal out most of the dirt/moisture that may occur.
I don't remember when the Savvy Black Anodized LED tail lights came out but I connected them that way and haven't had any problems with them. Or any other connection before that.
If I think it calls for shrink tube, I'll use that or I'll just use black tape to seal out most of the dirt/moisture that may occur.
As long as you own and run the lights, they are warrantied against burning out, dimming, or any other aspect that affects their function.
I personally wont use anything but an un-insulated quality butt connector with heat shrink OR a quality butt connector with the heat shrink already installed and you just have to get it hot.
I will not use anything bulky or hokey like those trailer type connectors that snap onto existing wires and you fold the backs over.
I do know that alot of jeep people are happy with whatever gets the job done the easiest and quickest but that's not me. I want quality and durability. It would be impossible to say if I am your minority or majority customer though
I will not use anything bulky or hokey like those trailer type connectors that snap onto existing wires and you fold the backs over.
I do know that alot of jeep people are happy with whatever gets the job done the easiest and quickest but that's not me. I want quality and durability. It would be impossible to say if I am your minority or majority customer though
C.J. Roberts
TJ Addict
I do the same. I have a crimper like this one from another poster,
that I use on the splice, and then heat shrink over that. But in response to your original question, a lot of guys that don't do a lot of wiring, or are just plain not good at it are going to use these:
because that's just what they have.
Maybe you can make your lights with a connector that just plugs into the factory wiring.
Non insulated butt connectors would be the way to go. That way any caveman can crimp the sucker as hard as humanly possible and as long as they used the included Heatshrink, it will be sealed.
Cavemen can easily compromise a Heatshrink butt connectors ability to seal. They can also easily undercrimp them trying not to compromise the Heatshrink.
Cavemen can easily compromise a Heatshrink butt connectors ability to seal. They can also easily undercrimp them trying not to compromise the Heatshrink.
It’ll be ok as long as they don’t put the butt connector on backwards.
You tested them, you can't screw them up even staking them and they still seal without splitting the heat shrink. I also promise that I can't send out enough uninsulated butt connectors to cover the amount of times that the customer will crimp before sliding on the heat shrink. So there is that.
Interesting thread. I'll admit I have done virtually all of the techniques here from the janky to more professional at one time or another.
To answer your question, I think if decent quality crimp and heat shrink connectors and directions on par with BMB brake instructions are provided, most would do well and maybe learn how better to do their future wiring projects.
Maybe the most idiot proof solution would be factory style plugs already on the lights (no splicing required). I assume that is time or cost prohibitive?
The issue with solder when it’s used is people use the wrong type of solder and procedure for doing it. I use heat shrink that has an internal sealant inside. I can’t remember the last time I soldered a wire. Thanks to PEX I only solder pipe when doing a repair.
Picture is the crimper I use all the time. In fact I used it yesterday to butt connect the 26ga or so wires on a security camera.
Picture is the crimper I use all the time. In fact I used it yesterday to butt connect the 26ga or so wires on a security camera.