Just get power to the marker lights. Turn signals are for squares.
he's that, and if he keeps doing shit like that, he's gonna be a grease spot spread out over about 150 feet of asphalt.
he's that, and if he keeps doing shit like that, he's gonna be a grease spot spread out over about 150 feet of asphalt.
Especially since he only wears a helmet and no other protection
I'm getting back into working on this camper now that it isn't freezing and dark when I get off work. I think I'm going to have to just rewire the trailer plug because now neither of the taillights are working. I don't think it's worth figuring out where the JANK wiring in there right now has a problem.
Does this make sense of where all the wires from the plug are supposed to go for a truck camper with a battery?
View attachment 496226
(look at them MS Paint skillz)
I'm pretty sure the battery charging system and the lights are supposed to be independent of each other...
So is it right the battery as well as both taillights eventually ground to the trailer plug/truck?
And the aux 12v/charging is only supposed to go to the battery, right?
And (unless the trailer manufacturer used them for something else) I shouldn't need to use the trailer brake blade?
And what gauge wire would you use? It is currently 14AWG for all the wires it looks like. Should I just use that as well or can I/should I use something else?
Okay cool. So every ground needs to be spliced together connected. Makes sense.Your ground should be common to all things 12 volt on the camper. and yes it should feed through the the 7 blade plug to the truck.
I think the truck already has this... being a 2500hd with a tow package? I have already taken the camper out when it was working and they RV battery died but the truck didn't, that would be evidence of an isolator?There's probably already on on the truck but just in case
On the truck side of things, make sure you have a battery isolator between the trucks 12 volt and the 12 volt charge wire going to the plug. (In case you didn't know) The isolator will only allow the truck voltage system to be connected to and charge the camper when the truck is running.
It may have one on it, they aren't hard to recognise. Usually under the hood close to one of the batteries... but, usually they don't come with the truck. I had to help my dad install one on his 1988 F-350, 1999 Ram 3500, his 2005 Ram 3500, and his 2010 Ram 3500 (all had the factory tow package).Okay cool. So every ground needs to be spliced together connected. Makes sense.
I think the truck already has this... being a 2500hd with a tow package? I have already taken the camper out when it was working and they RV battery died but the truck didn't, that would be evidence of an isolator?
It may have one on it, they aren't hard to recognise. Usually under the hood close to one of the batteries... but, usually they don't come with the truck. I had to help my dad install one on his 1988 F-350, 1999 Ram 3500, his 2005 Ram 3500, and his 2010 Ram 3500 (all had the factory tow package).
Okayyy yeah I figured that'd be a given with the tow package. I'll check it out and make sure it has something like that, thanks man
If the majority of the vehicles sold with a tow package were actually towing RVs it might become a standard part with the tow package. The reality is RVs towing (slide in campers included) percentages are hardly a blip in the towing world...
If the majority of the vehicles sold with a tow package were actually towing RVs it might become a standard part with the tow package. The reality is RVs towing (slide in campers included) percentages are hardly a blip in the towing world...
So mr. trailer expert
14AWG is the way to go?