Basket's Build

It's more than heavy enough for all the lighting. It will easily handle up to 15 amps... The only thing different you might want to run is 10AWG or even 8AWG from the isolator to the charge wire for the camper battery/ies. Especially if you are going to be using the truck as the main source for charging the camper battery/ies.
Ah okay. I did not think about that... Idk how it is wired really but the mid-bed trailer connector looks like it is wired with like 16AWG from what I saw when I popped it out. This is super good info that the trailer wiring the truck has is for trailers not RVs I never would have known. Thanks man I will need to figure that out as I fix this to make sure they work together well
 
  • Like
Reactions: reddvltj
The size wire is wholely
Ah okay. I did not think about that... Idk how it is wired really but the mid-bed trailer connector looks like it is wired with like 16AWG from what I saw when I popped it out. This is super good info that the trailer wiring the truck has is for trailers not RVs I never would have known. Thanks man I will need to figure that out as I fix this to make sure they work together well
You might find these links very informative.... there are more links to other helpful info below the diagram in the 3rd link

7 way 12 volt + wire is for maintaining a chaged battery
https://www.etrailer.com/question-142567.html

How to wire a 7 way plug "easier than you think"
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring-7-way.aspx

Wiring an isolator for charging a discharged battery
https://www.etrailer.com/question-259273.html
 
  • Like
Reactions: lBasket
The size wire is wholely

You might find these links very informative.... there are more links to other helpful info below the diagram in the 3rd link

7 way 12 volt + wire is for maintaining a chaged battery
https://www.etrailer.com/question-142567.html
Recommends a 10 gauge wire for positive to batter. Dude doesn't mention the ground
How to wire a 7 way plug "easier than you think"
https://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring-7-way.aspx
This recommends minimum 16awg for lights and 12awg for battery pos/ground, and brake circuit
Wiring an isolator for charging a discharged battery
https://www.etrailer.com/question-259273.html

I don't think I have an OEM isolator so I'll have to do this too thanks.

So I ordered 100' of 6 colors of 14AWG wire, do you think I should also get some 10awg for the battery charging and ground or do you think 14 is fine?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
Recommends a 10 gauge wire for positive to batter. Dude doesn't mention the ground

This recommends minimum 16awg for lights and 12awg for battery pos/ground, and brake circuit


I don't think I have an OEM isolator so I'll have to do this too thanks.

So I ordered 100' of 6 colors of 14AWG wire, do you think I should also get some 10awg for the battery charging and ground or do you think 14 is fine?
The best way to go about it, is to find out what amperage your alternator is rated at. Then find an asolator that is rated for at least that amperage. Then. run what ever guage they (the isolator manufacturer) suggest for a specified length of run from the isolator to the camper battery. Your ground should probably be the same guage as the charge wire but you want it as short as is convenient to get to ground on the frame of the camper.

I think 10awg for the battery + and - would be enough in most stock alternator applications though...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Wildman
Recommends a 10 gauge wire for positive to batter. Dude doesn't mention the ground

This recommends minimum 16awg for lights and 12awg for battery pos/ground, and brake circuit


I don't think I have an OEM isolator so I'll have to do this too thanks.

So I ordered 100' of 6 colors of 14AWG wire, do you think I should also get some 10awg for the battery charging and ground or do you think 14 is fine?

THe 14awg us erfect for everything else... you can add light circuits if you choose to without worrying about added draw..
 
  • Like
Reactions: lBasket
The best way to go about it, is to find out what amperage your alternator is rated at. Then find an asolator that is rated for at least that amperage. Then. run what ever guage they (the isolator manufacturer) suggest for a specified length of run from the isolator to the camper battery. Your ground should probably be the same guage as the charge wire but you want it as short as is convenient to get to ground on the frame of the camper.

I think 10awg for the battery + and - would be enough in most stock alternator applications though...

105amp alternator. So this would also include rewiring the truck with 10awg if it isn't already? Is it possible for the camper to have an isolator built in?
 
On assault charges!

The guys talented, I'll give him that. But as a rider myself, it just gives us a bad name. At those speeds, it wouldn't take much to wipe out and all he's in is a t-shirt. Makes me cringe.

The assault charges are in El Paso, here's what he's facing in CO.

He's now facing charges of menacing, engaged in speed contest, reckless endangerment, reckless driving, speeding 40 mph over the speed limit, exhibition of speed and driving without a license plate. The arrest warrant in the case was originally issued in December, according to the department's news release.
 
Working on rewiring the camper's taillights now that I've got everything sketched out and labelled. Haven't taken many pics yet but I felt pretty smart for doing this with the spools of wire lol. All 4 fit on my breaker bar at once so it's nice and easy to pull

IMG_20240207_164247.jpg
 
So my battery finally died... its been starting weakly for a while now and it finally kicked the bucket, too weak to start it and my battery charger can't charge it anymore. Unfortunately, it was blocking my truck in so I had to move it using the MR2 battery. Got a block of wood wedged in there so the wires can reach and bam!

1708049403003.jpeg
 
I started working on installing my new compressor that I got from @Apparition, finally. I am putting it on the ABS tray, but it is a bit long so I am using some metal I had laying around to extend the tray to fit the compressor.

Marking where the compressor will go and where to cut the lip off the tray.
1708049479901.jpeg


Here is the extendo-bracket. I was originally going to put it on top of the ABS tray, but I ended up putting it sandwiched between the ABS tray and it's support so that it would be more rigid.

1708049545166.jpeg


Here it is installed:

1708049568400.jpeg


1708049576020.jpeg
 
I think my final setup is going to end up being like this. Regulator with a quick release, I'll have a coiled line in the jeep, there is a PSI sensor for the compressor, and a emergency release valve on the manifold. I'm not sure if I need to move where that wire comes out or if I'm just gonna let it hang over the manifold, I'm going to plug the middle two ports anyways.

1708049623395.jpeg
 
Got everything screwed in with thread sealant and bolted in. I put the bolts with the head under the fender so it doesn't interfere with the tire.

1708211012654.jpeg


So, here is the diagram for the wiring from Viair:
1708211063580.png

There is no manual switch wired into this. I'm thinking I'm going to follow that and just wire it this way, since there is a pressure switch. Is that crazy?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Rickyd and reddvltj
Got everything screwed in with thread sealant and bolted in. I put the bolts with the head under the fender so it doesn't interfere with the tire.

View attachment 501600

So, here is the diagram for the wiring from Viair:
View attachment 501601
There is no manual switch wired into this. I'm thinking I'm going to follow that and just wire it this way, since there is a pressure switch. Is that crazy?

I’d put a switch in it. If you spring a leak it’ll be on the whole time and it’ll be annoying.