See "Throw away society" for more details!They've been sitting in someone's backyard with grass growing around them.
People see my 1960 radiator running at 13 psi doing almost nothing lasting 60 years and point and say, "see that's better" while not realizing that it's a different thing. Because old brass radiators last, because aluminum radiators are sold as high performance people are always going to ask this exact question, I think that's what the forum is for.
Then find us one of those that fits a TJ and is also not absurdly expensive.
I apologize if this has been answered, but four pages of replies is hard to get through. A while ago I tried mismimoto aluminum and sure enough it cracked, so put oem back in, and lasted nearly twenty years, but finally gave away. Mishimoto was true to there warranty and sent me a new one which sat in the garage until oem blew last summer…getting off-roading season and worried, but can no longer find oem radiator…suggestions should I go with oem like radiator or is there something good out there?
Appreciate the help!
Appreciate the help!
C.J. Roberts
TJ Addict
See this current thread.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...tor-now-that-oem-are-all-gone-2004-4-0.69396/
Nicolai79
New Member
Some people have good luck with Denso and Champion. I'm going with Denso if/when mine fails and I can't find a Mopar one.
KennethS
TJ Enthusiast
And some people have had excellent results with a Murray radiator for several years in 115+ temperatures.
edit:
Part number 431512 for those interested.
edit:
Part number 431512 for those interested.
Last edited:
C.J. Roberts
TJ Addict
I just put the Murray in my TJ. I think there are other cooling system issues going on with mine though, but it got closer to the red than 210 the other day when I was driving around. But yeah, there's something going on with my cooling system. New water pump, new hoses, new radiator, and I did a flush. There's still a ton of rust in the system. I'm about to start a Prestone flush and then a Thermocure flush cycle. I might do 2 Thermocure flushes if there's still a ton of rust after the first one.
KennethS
TJ Enthusiast
Yeah I’d say you have some other issues.
My system was in good shape other than a failed radiator. I have a lot of experience with radiators on my muscle car and I decided to get one locally so if there was an issue I can resolve it fairly easily. The Murray has a lifetime warranty and the parts store is right around the corner, so ease of replacement in case there was a problem was a deciding factor. This radiator has been in for around 4 years now and coolant temps stay right at 200 during desert wheeling, highway cruising, and even during our recent 119 temps with the AC on in stop and go rush hour traffic.
My system was in good shape other than a failed radiator. I have a lot of experience with radiators on my muscle car and I decided to get one locally so if there was an issue I can resolve it fairly easily. The Murray has a lifetime warranty and the parts store is right around the corner, so ease of replacement in case there was a problem was a deciding factor. This radiator has been in for around 4 years now and coolant temps stay right at 200 during desert wheeling, highway cruising, and even during our recent 119 temps with the AC on in stop and go rush hour traffic.
The thing is besides doing a Prestone+Thermocure flushes to get the rust out of the system, I have no idea what else to try? At that point, the entire cooling system will have been replaced (radiator, water pump, t-stat). Only thing not replaced is the fan and fan clutch and both of those are working fine.
Any other ideas as to what to check because the engine is running hot?
KennethS
TJ Enthusiast
My version of a radiator flush is disconnect the lower radiator hose and dump the coolant into a bucket, then reconnect the hose. Remove the thermostat so there’s no flow obstruction, disconnect the top hose from the radiator, stick the garden hose in the radiator, start the engine and let it run while the fresh water from the garden hose is pumped through the block. Any crud flushed out gets dumped out of the disconnected upper hose and doesn’t circulate back into the radiator, where it may clog some tubes. Let it run until it looks clean, then disconnect the lower hose and dump the water. Install the thermostat, reconnect the hoses, fill with coolant and distilled water to get the desired ratio.
How does the flow work? It sounds like the bottom rad hose is the intake into the engine block and then the upper rad hose is the return from the engine block to the radiator, correct?
There are still OEM Mopars to be had. Rock Auto seems to stock only one at a time so if you put in a request to be notified when it arrives you can get one from them https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?catalog=162&partnum=55037653AC&a=avl5109231 I did this a couple months ago and they did get one in and notified me but by that time I had already found one at Mopar Parts Giant https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-radiator-engine-cooling~55037653ac.html . Meanwhile Rock Auto has sold the one they brought in for me. The one from Mopar Parts Giant took longer than they advertised, about 2 weeks if I recall. Yes they are over $400 but well worth it IMHO.
KennethS
TJ Enthusiast
C.J. Roberts
TJ Addict
This is still around. I used one many years ago, and while it make a mess, it works as advertised.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCFY5W/?tag=wranglerorg-20
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CCFY5W/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I basically made one of those kits. I would highly recommend buying this kit instead. Cheaper and easier.