Best replacement clutch assembly?

High crawl ratios are important on tougher trails, that's why I really like an automatic. Its torque converter makes the crawl ratio infinitely high and its 1st gear ratio infinitely low.
I'm a sucker for rowing through the gears. The 5:1 makes life so much more enjoyable than the 2.73. (98:1 vs 55:1) I haven't been in a situation yet that I thought I'd prefer an auto but I'm sure in your neck of the wood, desert, it's a different story. The wife picked up an automatic JLURD and we took it out on a moderate trail. It is amazing the difference in how the two transmissions feel offroad. I like them both but I really like that when I'm in first, in the TJ, the jeep just wants to climb vs the JL where I need to tell it to by adding more throttle if that makes any sense. I'm sure though that has more to do with the fact that I have way more seat time in the manual TJ and therefore it's more second nature to me.
 
X2 on the above recommendation for Luk which is also the OE manufacturer for the TJ's clutches.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CICYZ4/?tag=wranglerorg-20

The above kit includes the clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and pilot shaft.

Some aren't fans of the throwout bearing now included with that kit so if you want you can go with the below. Personally I see no problem with the newer composite material design of Luk's throwout bearing which some way smarter than me have said improved its life.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZIQ4Q/?tag=wranglerorg-20
I just got the Luk set and opted for the national because I have had good luck with national bearings in the past.

Here are some pictures of the Luk included bearing and the National. In case anyone is wanting to see the difference.

The Luk bearing feels very light-duty and a bit on the flimsy side. I would worry about its longevity. I am ok with the composite material my observations of duty are related to the bearing portion itself. The bearings side by side looks like the store brand compared to the performance brand.
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Sorry, my little scale wasn't on freedom units. I generally use it for measuring components for my remote control hobbies and things are tracked in Grams.

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I'm looking to change my clutch and RMS. I have the luk clutch kit and flywheel. I also threw in the spring, pivot, and fork because they are too cheap not to. Normally I would change the flywheel bolts when changing the flywheel. I don't see mention of that here. Is it unnecessary in the TJ? If not, does someone have a part number? Also, what is the recommended RMS and oil pan gasket?
 
I wouldn't bother replacing the flywheel bolts. Is there a specific reason you're replacing the flywheel? Unless it is physically damaged I would not. And if you decide to keep it, don't have it surfaced either. While that's a normal part of most clutch jobs, it's not on the TJ. The TJ's flywheel has a slight dome shape that most resurfacing jobs would remove unless they have the type of lathe that can keep the dome shape which is rare. It's real hard to beat Fel-Pro for gaskets and the RMS.
 
I wouldn't bother replacing the flywheel bolts. Is there a specific reason you're replacing the flywheel? Unless it is physically damaged I would not. And if you decide to keep it, don't have it surfaced either. While that's a normal part of most clutch jobs, it's not on the TJ. The TJ's flywheel has a slight dome shape that most resurfacing jobs would remove unless they have the type of lathe that can keep the dome shape which is rare. It's real hard to beat Fel-Pro for gaskets and the RMS.
I'm having some decent vibrations on clutch engagement when rowing up or down. Especially in 1st and 2nd gear. My concern is that the flywheel may be slightly torn up from the clutch disc chattering. I know the bearings are gone from the noises. With the flywheel being $60 seems like good insurance. Felpro is my favorite as well, just figured Id ask.
 
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