BL and MML Build Check

freedom_in_4low said:
I would say you're more the exception than the rule. Many start having trouble just from a transfer case drop, which has a smaller impact, but in the same direction, as a body lift. I've had the adjustment bolt seize up on two OEM shifters so they couldn't be adjusted, and the movement of the transfer case in relation to the body made it just straight up not shiftable at all. It's always worth trying it out before shelling out the money, but I would advise planning for that possibility and be ok with having to get under the rig to shift the transfer case if there's a wheeling trip planned the day after the body lift goes on.

Also, my fuel filler hose would have been damn tight if I hadn't replaced it...might have worked, but I didn't try real hard because I was trying out the GM filler hose to get rid of my splashback issue.
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it seems like a lot of these things depend on the Jeep, and I've noticed that my Jeep seems to be a lot less picky than many others I hear of...
 
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thekidwithquestions said:
its hard to justify $170 just to be able to shift into 4wd with less fingers on the shifter
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I was right on the verge of needing it. I could get into 4low but it was tricky and sometimes required multiple attempts for it to stay in gear. I'd get going, start climbing, and it would pop out into neutral. After a few tries it would stay no problem for the rest of the day.

I finally got tired of working around it, picked up a used one from Tox when he decided to buy an atlas, and have been so happy I did. Then again, I had the money and didn't have much else to spend it on regarding the build.
 
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thekidwithquestions said:
it seems like a lot of these things depend on the Jeep, and I've noticed that my Jeep seems to be a lot less picky than many others I hear of...
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and my 99 seemed to be more picky :ROFLMAO: I cringe every time someone says you don't need a transfer case drop with under 3" of lift.

Jury is still out on my 06, but it seems more picky in at least one area, which is whether the driveshaft speed is gonna make the rig hum above 75.
 
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If you drill a single hole in the transfer case side bracket you can pop out the factory bushing and lower it to help level the bar and make it work again. If you are close it'll shift fine. It wont make it better or anything, just get it back to working as shitty as it did from the factory.
 
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thekidwithquestions said:
Mine didn't need it, and I haven't heard anyone else say that they needed it.
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I used the word "may" for a reason.

Also.. if you drive a standard... you MAY need to make space for the shifter by trimming... bending.. or relocating things.


I speak from my own experience... hopefully you don't have the same.
 
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Thanks for all the input. I have narrowed it to the rokeman body lift and JKS motor mounts with an OME rear track bar bracket. Rokeman also has solid coil spring spacers which I may add later.
 
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rhanna said:
I think the spacer MML is recommended as long as the original motor mount is still good.
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My motor mounts are not good. The raised motor mounts are cheaper when compared to spacers and new mounts. This is not a DD for me so I'm not to worried if it vibrates more than stock. It already vibrates way to much anyway!
 
Bargain Box said:
My motor mounts are not good. The raised motor mounts are cheaper when compared to spacers and new mounts. This is not a DD for me so I'm not to worried if it vibrates more than stock. It already vibrates way to much anyway!
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+1 for M.O.R.E bombproof 1". Probably a lot easier to install with 2 people. I was under my jeep with the bolts in hand and my feet on my jack raising the motor to get the holes to line up.

Make sure you do one at a time and don't remove both or you'll have a pain in the ass getting it to line back up.
 
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