BL and MML Build Check

Bargain Box

Bargain Box

Stand back, I built this s*** myself...
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Oct 13, 2021
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476
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Raleigh, NC
I'm looking to order a 1-1.25" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift. Do I need anything else other than the kits? Will the fuel filler nozzle need to be modified? Any build items I'm missing? Also, does anyone have preference suggestions on JKS body lift vs Savvy vs Rokeman? Brown Dog motor mounts vs JKS? For reference, my current setup is a 2" spring lift and I will be changing to 3" springs or adding a 0.5" to 0.75" spacer lift in the future. I already have an adjustable front track bar but still need to add the rear trackbar relocation bracket. I'm following this thread with a path towards a tummy tuck: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/
 
Bargain Box said:
I'm looking to order a 1-1.25" body lift and a 1" motor mount lift. Do I need anything else other than the kits? Will the fuel filler nozzle need to be modified? Any build items I'm missing? Also, does anyone have preference suggestions on JKS body lift vs Savvy vs Rokeman? Brown Dog motor mounts vs JKS? For reference, my current setup is a 2" spring lift and I will be changing to 3" springs or adding a 0.5" to 0.75" spacer lift in the future. I already have an adjustable front track bar but still need to add the rear trackbar relocation bracket. I'm following this thread with a path towards a tummy tuck: https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/a-recipe-for-an-affordable-but-quality-2-5-lift.41687/
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All you need is the MML and the BL, the fuel nozzle can be extended to fit.

Whatever you do try to go with aluminum, most polyurethane pucks will compress over time causing problems.
 
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Bargain Box said:
Also, does anyone have preference suggestions on JKS body lift vs Savvy vs Rokeman?
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Don't do the JKS, they compress so you can never reach torque spec which causes all sorts of other issues. Get a rigid one, savvy or rokmen should do fine.


Bargain Box said:
Brown Dog motor mounts vs JKS?
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If you want the least amount of vibes, just do the aluminum spacer under OEM mounts. All the spacer options are all pretty much the same.
 
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I got a Rough Country MML from a friend for free, but wouldn't have any problems paying full price for it after installing/checking it out.

It's $30 cheaper than the Savvy one and it's the same exact thing
 
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rasband said:
Don't do the JKS, they compress so you can never reach torque spec which causes all sorts of other issues. Get a rigid one, savvy or rokmen should do fine.



If you want the least amount of vibes, just do the aluminum spacer under OEM mounts. All the spacer options are all pretty much the same.
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All the BL kits listed are aluminum pucks. Brown dog and JKS MMLs are poly bushing mounts. Still recommend spacer and stock mounts?
 
jesseshoots said:
I got a Rough Country MML from a friend for free, but wouldn't have any problems paying full price for it after installing/checking it out.

It's $30 cheaper than the Savvy one and it's the same exact thing
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Good to know!
 
Use an aluminum or rigid material for the lift. Also make sure the kit has spacers or longer rubber bumpers for the corners of the grille support. I would also recommend a steering shaft riser bracket to straighten out the steering shaft angle. Also there are different length bolts for the smaller bolts that some kits don't get right causing dimples or holes in the floor when they poke through.
 
Bargain Box said:
All the BL kits listed are aluminum pucks. Brown dog and JKS MMLs are poly bushing mounts. Still recommend spacer and stock mounts?
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I wasn't aware JKS has an aluminum puck option, if so that's fine too.

I have a MORE MML, but had I known at the time I would have done the spacer. My vibes aren't bad, but definitely above stock at idle.
 
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thekidwithquestions said:
Mine didn't need it, and I haven't heard anyone else say that they needed it.
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I would say you're more the exception than the rule. Many start having trouble just from a transfer case drop, which has a smaller impact, but in the same direction, as a body lift. I've had the adjustment bolt seize up on two OEM shifters so they couldn't be adjusted, and the movement of the transfer case in relation to the body made it just straight up not shiftable at all. It's always worth trying it out before shelling out the money, but I would advise planning for that possibility and be ok with having to get under the rig to shift the transfer case if there's a wheeling trip planned the day after the body lift goes on.

Also, my fuel filler hose would have been damn tight if I hadn't replaced it...might have worked, but I didn't try real hard because I was trying out the GM filler hose to get rid of my splashback issue.
 
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