Body mount bolt snapped

[Goatman]

Can you get some Croil up into the other side of the bolt? That should really help. Any spray is better than none. But if you can get it on the back side of the nut would really help. Weld another nut onto the broken side and use an impact on it. Try going in and out with the bolt. As soon as it stops switch direction. Each time it should back out a bit more. In and out, in and out. And spray it when it stops coming out. Then when you go back in it will help work the fluid through the entire nut to help spin it all the way out. Once you get it out run a tap through the nut and be sure to use plenty of antiseize when you put the new bolts in.

 

[Axeman]

Can you get some Croil up into the other side of the bolt? That should really help. Any spray is better than none. But if you can get it on the back side of the nut would really help. Weld another nut onto the broken side and use an impact on it. Try going in and out with the bolt. As soon as it stops switch direction. Each time it should back out a bit more. In and out, in and out. And spray it when it stops coming out. Then when you go back in it will help work the fluid through the entire nut to help spin it all the way out. Once you get it out run a tap through the nut and be sure to use plenty of antiseize when you put the new bolts in.

I can't get to the back side on either broken bolt. I would have to drill through the floor board. The problem with that is I don't have a carpet to hide it afterward, I have line-x. I will most likely end up having to anyway, and I could probably patch it or use a rubber plug as someone had mentioned.

I tried welding the nut and working it, but the bolts are frozen, there is no working back and forth. I snapped it again just trying to turn it once. My next step is to cut it flush and use a left hand drill bit.

 

[TJ4Jim]

You can drill an 1/8" hole thru the side of the torque box on center and access the body side thread with a hose off the spray nozzle.

 

[Mike_H]

You have enough there to try welding again. I had the same issue on my front Driver's Side body mount...
It took a couple tries...

 

[Goatman]

Forgot to say 'drill the hole' part. Thanks for that.
If it works it's worth it.
Another 'worse case, final decision, go nuclear' option is to cut the nut out from below and then you can weld back in a new plate with a new nut. That will give you the ability to have a whole brand new attachment. Otherwise you will be using that crappy nut with the new bolt.

 

[Axeman]

I soaked the 2 broken bolts with liquid wrench for a few days. I used every hole in the body near them to try and get it on the back side. I even drilled a small hole in the floorboard above one of them to get some oil in there. Then I gave welding one more try but was unsuccessful again.

I had ordered some left hand drill bits as recommended here. I was able to drill through one of them successfully, saving the threads. I chased the threads and was able to get a good grab with the new bolt.

The front bolt on the drivers side was not so lucky. In my effort to drill it out, I took the nutsert out with it. Unfortunately there's no threads up there for me to use.

I am thinking I am going to have to cut an access hole somewhere to get a good size washer and nut in there. Has anyone had to do this before? I am hopefully going to do it through the bottom of the tub and not from the top of the floorboard.

 

[Apparition]

I soaked the 2 broken bolts with liquid wrench for a few days. I used every hole in the body near them to try and get it on the back side. I even drilled a small hole in the floorboard above one of them to get some oil in there. Then I gave welding one more try but was unsuccessful again.

I had ordered some left hand drill bits as recommended here. I was able to drill through one of them successfully, saving the threads. I chased the threads and was able to get a good grab with the new bolt.

The front bolt on the drivers side was not so lucky. In my effort to drill it out, I took the nutsert out with it. Unfortunately there's no threads up there for me to use.
View attachment 170538
View attachment 170539
I am thinking I am going to have to cut an access hole somewhere to get a good size washer and nut in there. Has anyone had to do this before? I am hopefully going to do it through the bottom of the tub and not from the top of the floorboard.

How about a new nutsert?

 

[Axeman]

How about a new nutsert?

I don't know if a regular nutsert would work. I think the factory one was a small plate to help disperse. I also don't think I could get a nutsert tool in-between the frame and tub to set it.

 

[Apparition]

I don't know if a regular nutsert would work. I think the factory one was a small plate to help disperse. I also don't think I could get a nutsert tool in-between the frame and tub to set it.

I didn’t remember what those were just throwing out the idea.

 

[Lou]

I thought it was just a piece of metal with threads tapped in it.

 

[Axeman]

I just found this thread that is helpful https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-repair-body-mounts.21195/

It's the same mount that I need to repair so I may try this. I am hoping to not have to cut the frame bracket off though. I should have enough space in between the frame and tub to fit the hole saw.

 

[Steel City 06]

If you want to go overboard, you can buy replacement torque boxes that have the threaded inserts already installed. They come in various lengths and configurations, and weld in place overtop of the existing torque box.

Here is a pair of the full size ones:
https://www.autorust.com/product/full-length-floor-channel-subframe-set-wrangler-tj-97-06/

 

[Goatman]

You could take that replacement piece and cut out a section to weld in. With all the bolts now able to come out you can loosen the entire opposite side, remove all the bolts on the snafu side and lift it up with a floor jack or two to give you room to get tools under there and cut out the bad section and weld in a new piece.

 

[Axeman]

If you want to go overboard, you can buy replacement torque boxes that have the threaded inserts already installed. They come in various lengths and configurations, and weld in place overtop of the existing torque box.

Here is a pair of the full size ones:
https://www.autorust.com/product/full-length-floor-channel-subframe-set-wrangler-tj-97-06/

Thanks for the info. I am hoping to try and fab something myself first. I will probably end up with one of these to fix what I mess up even further though....

 

[Steel City 06]

You could take that replacement piece ⬆⬆⬆ and cut out a section to weld in. With all the bolts now able to come out you can loosen the entire opposite side, remove all the bolts on the snafu side and lift it up with a floor jack or two to give you room to get tools under there and cut out the bad section and weld in a new piece.

You can also get just the individual part sections. No need to hack up an entire panel.
For example:
https://www.autorust.com/product/floor-channel-subframe-center-section-right-side-wrangler-tj-97-06/
Mid length:
https://www.autorust.com/product/floor-support-torque-box-art-145-2-s-set/

 

[Flivver250]

Glad to hear the LH drill bit and easy out worked on the other. I had faith in you! You can't win them all, but they usually work for me.

 

[Steel City 06]

Here's a breakdown of what Autorust carries.

 

[InOmaha]

I soaked the 2 broken bolts with liquid wrench for a few days. I used every hole in the body near them to try and get it on the back side. I even drilled a small hole in the floorboard above one of them to get some oil in there. Then I gave welding one more try but was unsuccessful again.

I had ordered some left hand drill bits as recommended here. I was able to drill through one of them successfully, saving the threads. I chased the threads and was able to get a good grab with the new bolt.

The front bolt on the drivers side was not so lucky. In my effort to drill it out, I took the nutsert out with it. Unfortunately there's no threads up there for me to use.
View attachment 170538
View attachment 170539
I am thinking I am going to have to cut an access hole somewhere to get a good size washer and nut in there. Has anyone had to do this before? I am hopefully going to do it through the bottom of the tub and not from the top of the floorboard.

Couldn't you just drill the hole out a little bigger, put a nut on the end of a bolt, slide it up in the hole, tack weld the nut in place, take off the bolt and finish weld it? Then reassemble. It's the same solution as the link you found without cutting out a big hole.

Otherwise maybe weld one of these (or beefier version since I didn't look around long) to the bottom. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MB6QMHX/?tag=wranglerorg-20 or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLFF6C5/?tag=wranglerorg-20

With something like these tabs you could grind a slot through and fish them in sideways, turn them down into your hole and weld up the tab down using the slot.

 

[Axeman]

Couldn't you just drill the hole out a little bigger, put a nut on the end of a bolt, slide it up in the hole, tack weld the nut in place, take off the bolt and finish weld it? Then reassemble. It's the same solution as the link you found without cutting out a big hole.

Otherwise maybe weld one of these (or beefier version since I didn't look around long) to the bottom. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MB6QMHX/?tag=wranglerorg-20 or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QLFF6C5/?tag=wranglerorg-20

With something like these tabs you could grind a slot through and fish them in sideways, turn them down into your hole and weld up the tab down using the slot.

That's a good idea. I could probably weld the nut to the washer first on the bench then stick the nut up in the hole so I can weld the washer flush to the floor board. it will be covered by the body mount/lift puck so it shouldn't be seen.

 

[InOmaha]

That's a good idea. I could probably weld the nut to the washer first on the bench then stick the nut up in the hole so I can weld the washer flush to the floor board. it will be covered by the body mount/lift puck so it shouldn't be seen.

Plus you'll get a little extra body lift to get you over that one obstacle.