Bump stop bolt will not back out
- Thread starter DarkStar
- Start date
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I’m not sure on that. I’d say 1.50 would be fine and I’m guessing 12 would work. You’ll definitely need something big enough so you can drill out traces of the existing threads so that you get a clean cut with your tap.
Maybe someone else can provide insight on that.
Maybe someone else can provide insight on that.
Greetings all.
Yesterday I picked up two M12x1.75x70 10.9 yellow zinc bolts, a collection of lock and flat washers, and a 12mmx1.75 tap at the "local" Fastenal's.
Today I used a 13/32" (10.2mm) drill to clean out the hole to size.
I drilled out the aluminum extension and jounce bumper cup using a 15/32" (12mm) drill in the drill press.
Using the tap and an old handle, I threaded the hole in the frame.
I could only turn it about 1/4 turn at a time due to space, then relocate the handle. That was fine as it would have been about my limit anyway before reversing to clear the tap.
Getting the tap squared was a fun gig. Not so bad fore and aft, but port to starboard was a bear as the visual field was limited.
I replaced the cup and extension on the bolt (used a lock-washer under the cup), used blue Loctite 242 on the threads, threaded the bolt into the hole and then torqued the bolt to 27ft lbs.
Whew.
I had previously removed the cups and extensions so that I could hammer the jounce bumpers into the cups.
They are hollow, so I was able to tighten the bolts after installing the jounce bumpers.
This time I had to remove that one because the 12mm bolt has a 19mm head so a 19mm socket would not fit inside of the jounce bumper.
Now, does anyone out there know of an incredibly effective method(s) of inserting the jounce bumper into the cup now that the cup and extension are bolted in?
Many thanks for the help.
Yesterday I picked up two M12x1.75x70 10.9 yellow zinc bolts, a collection of lock and flat washers, and a 12mmx1.75 tap at the "local" Fastenal's.
Today I used a 13/32" (10.2mm) drill to clean out the hole to size.
I drilled out the aluminum extension and jounce bumper cup using a 15/32" (12mm) drill in the drill press.
Using the tap and an old handle, I threaded the hole in the frame.
I could only turn it about 1/4 turn at a time due to space, then relocate the handle. That was fine as it would have been about my limit anyway before reversing to clear the tap.
Getting the tap squared was a fun gig. Not so bad fore and aft, but port to starboard was a bear as the visual field was limited.
I replaced the cup and extension on the bolt (used a lock-washer under the cup), used blue Loctite 242 on the threads, threaded the bolt into the hole and then torqued the bolt to 27ft lbs.
Whew.
I had previously removed the cups and extensions so that I could hammer the jounce bumpers into the cups.
They are hollow, so I was able to tighten the bolts after installing the jounce bumpers.
This time I had to remove that one because the 12mm bolt has a 19mm head so a 19mm socket would not fit inside of the jounce bumper.
Now, does anyone out there know of an incredibly effective method(s) of inserting the jounce bumper into the cup now that the cup and extension are bolted in?
Many thanks for the help.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I didn’t use the Daystar jounce bumpers, I replaced mine with the OEM style from Omix-Ada. They are kinda spongy. You might have luck putting a little lube of some type on there to get them going.
Can you get your factory jack in there? Maybe sit it in the pad where the spring sits then raise it up and press the bumper in? May not be possible, I dont know.
Can you get your factory jack in there? Maybe sit it in the pad where the spring sits then raise it up and press the bumper in? May not be possible, I dont know.
Thanks.
What type of lubricant would you suggest?
I am concerned about the lubricant reacting with the jounce bumpers.
Also, I am concerned that any residual lubricant may weaken the jounce bumpers hold in the cup allowing it to fall out more easily.
I used a "real" soap solution to lube them when I had them off.
Then it was easy to hammer the jounce bumpers into the cups.
The jack idea may work, if I can get one under it in some manner.
With my luck, it will raise the Jeep off of the stands instead of pressing the jounce bumper into the cup.
PS: I have been attempting to find information on what type of lubricant is safe to use on high density polyurethane.
I have now discovered that some condoms are made from polyurethane and that water based lubricants are safe to use with them.
So, I guess a tube of KY is to be next on my Jeep shopping list.
What type of lubricant would you suggest?
I am concerned about the lubricant reacting with the jounce bumpers.
Also, I am concerned that any residual lubricant may weaken the jounce bumpers hold in the cup allowing it to fall out more easily.
I used a "real" soap solution to lube them when I had them off.
Then it was easy to hammer the jounce bumpers into the cups.
The jack idea may work, if I can get one under it in some manner.
With my luck, it will raise the Jeep off of the stands instead of pressing the jounce bumper into the cup.
PS: I have been attempting to find information on what type of lubricant is safe to use on high density polyurethane.
I have now discovered that some condoms are made from polyurethane and that water based lubricants are safe to use with them.
So, I guess a tube of KY is to be next on my Jeep shopping list.
Last edited:
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Thanks.
What type of lubricant would you suggest?
I am concerned about the lubricant reacting with the jounce bumpers.
Also, I am concerned that any residual lubricant may weaken the jounce bumpers hold in the cup allowing it to fall out more easily.
I used a "real" soap solution to lube them when I had them off.
Then it was easy to hammer the jounce bumpers into the cups.
The jack idea may work, if I can get one under it in some manner.
With my luck, it will raise the Jeep off of the stands instead of pressing the jounce bumper into the cup.
PS: I have been attempting to find information on what type of lubricant is safe to use on high density polyurethane.
I have now discovered that some condoms are made from polyurethane and that water based lubricants are safe to use with them.
So, I guess a tube of KY is to be next on my Jeep shopping list.
LOL. If it works, it works.
I was going to say SuperLube makes some lube that is safe for rubber, but off the top of my head I’m not sure if it is for the materualthe daystar bumpers are made of.
The KY makes for a better story though. : )
Yep, I could bring one of the jounce bumpers with me to the store and ask the salesperson what lubricant would be safe to use with it.
Oh well, wrong path to follow.
Tomorrow I will try to utilize a jack to push it into the cup.
I will try a strong soap solution or something water based.
Oh well, wrong path to follow.
Tomorrow I will try to utilize a jack to push it into the cup.
I will try a strong soap solution or something water based.
Last edited:
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Good Sunday to you all.
The rear suspension is finally done.
I used a small scissors jack placed on the rear of the spring perch at a slight forward angle to push the jounce bumper into the cup.
I used a soap solution to lubricate the jounce bumper and it went in very smoothly.
I want to thank everyone who has offered assistance with rebuilding the rear suspension, both on this thread as well as others.
Now to replace the coolant pump, hoses, and thermostat, etc.
After that is done, the next task is to rebuild the front suspension.
It may be a while before I begin that as I have lots more equipment around the farm to get going.
I'll be back.
For what it is worth, I will post pictures tomorrow sometime.
Take care.
The rear suspension is finally done.
I used a small scissors jack placed on the rear of the spring perch at a slight forward angle to push the jounce bumper into the cup.
I used a soap solution to lubricate the jounce bumper and it went in very smoothly.
I want to thank everyone who has offered assistance with rebuilding the rear suspension, both on this thread as well as others.
Now to replace the coolant pump, hoses, and thermostat, etc.
After that is done, the next task is to rebuild the front suspension.
It may be a while before I begin that as I have lots more equipment around the farm to get going.
I'll be back.
For what it is worth, I will post pictures tomorrow sometime.
Take care.
Last edited:
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
I have to admit, I thought you were working on the front suspension all this time. LOL
Glad you got it done and I hope my suggestions were not to confusing since you were working on the rear. : )
Glad you got it done and I hope my suggestions were not to confusing since you were working on the rear. : )
Really?
That would explain the pictures.
No worries.
Thanks for the help.
I will probably need more help when I tackle the front.
Of course it is well known the front suspension is so much simpler than the rear. LOL
Take care.
That would explain the pictures.
No worries.
Thanks for the help.
I will probably need more help when I tackle the front.
Of course it is well known the front suspension is so much simpler than the rear.
LOLTake care.
Here are some pictures for what they are worth.
Took them in the dark so I couldn't see what I was shooting.
New bushings on upper and lower control arms, sway bar, links, along with new bolts and nuts
New springs and shocks (OME extended)
New Currie adjustable TracBar
New jounce bumpers
The suspension may be stiffer than I can stand.
When I stand one the rear bumper, it seems to only go down a fraction of an inch. (I am 164 pounds)
I guess I will find out when I get it rolling again.
Thanks again for all the help.
I will most likely be back for the front suspension and possibly beyond.
Take care.
Took them in the dark so I couldn't see what I was shooting.
New bushings on upper and lower control arms, sway bar, links, along with new bolts and nuts
New springs and shocks (OME extended)
New Currie adjustable TracBar
New jounce bumpers
The suspension may be stiffer than I can stand.
When I stand one the rear bumper, it seems to only go down a fraction of an inch. (I am 164 pounds)
I guess I will find out when I get it rolling again.
Thanks again for all the help.
I will most likely be back for the front suspension and possibly beyond.
Take care.
Greetings. I finally got the new water pump installed along with new hoses, thermostat, and radiator cap. The ride is so much different with the rebuilt rear suspension; tight but much smoother. So I will tackle the front suspension as soon as I catch up on some farm equipment repairs and a few other tasks that require my attention. Thanks again for all the help. Later.
Doug
Doug
Similar threads
