Buying First Jeep

[KY_SimpleMan]

Looking to buy my first Jeep. Not really looking for anything modified. Just a good Jeep that’s not a rust bucket. I’m wanting a 6cyl manual. Hard or soft top, but prefer windows that roll down. Prices seem to be all over the place. What kind of price range should I be looking at? I’m in KY, so I’m looking around this area, and even more southern states as well. Thanks

 

[P man]

Looking to buy my first Jeep. Not really looking for anything modified. Just a good Jeep that’s not a rust bucket. I’m wanting a 6cyl manual. Hard or soft top, but prefer windows that roll down. Prices seem to be all over the place. What kind of price range should I be looking at? I’m in KY, so I’m looking around this area, and even more southern states as well. Thanks

Welcome to the forum.

Your best bet is to establish a budget and start looking. You can take pics and post them here and we will be glad to pick it apart for you and can also give you an idea of value.

 

[AndyG]

If you’ll get something that is basically stock, has a 4.0, That doesn’t have ridiculous mileage- You can get something pretty nice for 12-16,000.00. Prices certainly vary.

Hard doors and soft top is a good combo.

If you want something real nice and are willing to pay a little bit call Gilbert Jeeps down in Athens Alabama.

 

[JPHikr]

Get a CJ way simpler than a TJ, no computers.

 

[06lj]

Prices fluctuate greatly depending on condition, mileage, model and location. I would personally add in a Dana 44 rear axle to your search criteria. However the Dana 35 wouldn't be a complete deal breaker if the rest of the Jeep was in great condition. Realistically you will most likely be in the $12k-$15k range for something decent. A little more if you want it pristine. The market is slowing but TJ's are still in high demand. Good deals don't last long so you are doing the right thing in getting info on what to look for. If you see something be ready to inspect it quickly and make an offer if your seriously considering it. Don't rush, though. Better to wait than end up with something less than what you want. It would be best to find one as close to stock as possible.

Read this thread if you haven't already.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads...xt=If you're in the,roads in the Winter time.

 

[KY_SimpleMan]

Get a CJ way simpler than a TJ, no computers.

I’m all for the CJ, but wife doesn’t like the simplicity. Guess I could buy both. Lol

 

[KY_SimpleMan]

Thanks. I was hoping to

If you’ll get something that is basically stock, has a 4.0, That doesn’t have ridiculous mileage- You can get something pretty nice for 12-16,000.00. Prices certainly vary.

Hard doors and soft top is a good combo.

If you want something real nice and are willing to pay a little bit call Gilbert Jeeps down in Athens Alabama.

Thanks. I was hoping to stay around $10k. That may not be possible from what I’m hearing. I found one Sahara that guy said frame is rust free, but body does have couple spots of rust. I guess the frame is the biggest issue when buying?

 

[Shank]

Thanks. I was hoping to


Thanks. I was hoping to stay around $10k. That may not be possible from what I’m hearing. I found one Sahara that guy said frame is rust free, but body does have couple spots of rust. I guess the frame is the biggest issue when buying?

Short of just fenders, I would be skeptical. Photos would tell a lot, then feeling inside frame. Yes frame is the biggest issue, then the body mounting points.

 

[KY_SimpleMan]

Prices fluctuate greatly depending on condition, mileage, model and location. I would personally add in a Dana 44 rear axle to your search criteria. However the Dana 35 wouldn't be a complete deal breaker if the rest of the Jeep was in great condition. Realistically you will most likely be in the $12k-$15k range for something decent. A little more if you want it pristine. The market is slowing but TJ's are still in high demand. Good deals don't last long so you are doing the right thing in getting info on what to look for. If you see something be ready to inspect it quickly and make an offer if your seriously considering it. Don't rush, though. Better to wait than end up with something less than what you want. It would be best to find one as close to stock as possible.

Read this thread if you haven't already.
[URL]https://wranglertjforum.com/th...xt=If you're in the,roads in the Winter time.[/URL]

Thanks. I did read that thread too. I’m not sure on the Dana rears. What’s the easiest way to tell the difference?

 

[AndyG]

Thanks. I was hoping to


Thanks. I was hoping to stay around $10k. That may not be possible from what I’m hearing. I found one Sahara that guy said frame is rust free, but body does have couple spots of rust. I guess the frame is the biggest issue when buying?

It is but usually if you have some body rust its in other places as well-

Be cautious and thorough with rust evaluation.

 

[06lj]

Thanks. I did read that thread too. I’m not sure on the Dana rears. What’s the easiest way to tell the difference?

Visually they are pretty different but if your unsure just look at the drain plug. The plug on the Dana 35 is plastic and snaps in. The plug on a Dana 44 is metal and threads in.

 

[KY_SimpleMan]

Visually they are pretty different but if your unsure just look at the drain plug. The plug on the Dana 35 is plastic and snaps in. The plug on a Dana 44 is metal and threads in.
View attachment 455247

Visually they are pretty different but if your unsure just look at the drain plug. The plug on the Dana 35 is plastic and snaps in. The plug on a Dana 44 is metal and threads in.
View attachment 455247

Thanks again for the info.

 

[AndyG]

Sometimes us Southerners come across that rust is the epitome of evil and if somebody has one with rust they have a second rate vehicle-

I think it’s more true to say that we are not experienced with it as much as our northern neighbors so we tend to be overly cautious-

And I will say if you don’t know what you’re doing it’s a good idea to steer away from something sometimes.

A good example is we had a member who under estimated one and he ended up with so much money in the vehicle because he was kind of in the game once got into the work and didn’t want to lose what he had spent- it really turned out pretty terrible for him from a financial standpoint plus he was frustrated that he could not even drive the vehicle for a long time

I’m not trying to portray a horror story, I’m just giving the reality of what happens when you get into something that you under evaluate.

 

[KY_SimpleMan]

Sometimes us Southerners come across that rust is the a epitome of evil and if somebody has one with rust they have a second rate vehicle-

I think it’s more true to say that we are not experienced with it as much as our northern neighbors so we tend to be overly cautious-

And I will say if you don’t know what you’re doing it’s a good idea to steer away from something sometimes.

A good example is we had a member who under estimated one and he ended up with so much money in the vehicle because he was kind of in the game once got into the work and didn’t want to lose what he had spent- it really turned out pretty terrible for him from a financial standpoint plus he was frustrated that he could not even drive the vehicle for a long time

I’m not trying to portray a horror story, I’m just giving the reality of what happens when you get into something that you under evaluate.

Yes sir. I don’t want to fall into a money pit. Rather get something I can enjoy as soon as I get the keys.

 

[macleanflood]

Find something in the Southwest, California or the PNW and wheel it all the way home.

We drove most of the way to Montana on dirt roads from Oregon. Got some good YouTube videos!

Take your time and find something clean. I think 97s are the best and most simplest year.

-Mac

 

[bbaldwin237]

It may be nothing, but when I was shopping, I was skeptical of every Jeep that had no carpet. I felt that this was likely a sign of a leak somewhere, or that it just hadn't been taken care of so it looked better with no carpet versus ruined carpet.

Now I ended up getting one that had been completely gutted and redone, so it's hard to say. But that was just my view.

I'll agree with others on the 44 rear, I considered it a must. The full doors and soft top is nice. Also, don't forget that something that needs shocks, tires, or minor work might allow you to get in at a much lower price with the opportunity to upgrade to things that you prefer.

 

[hear]

It may be nothing, but when I was shopping, I was skeptical of every Jeep that had no carpet. I felt that this was likely a sign of a leak somewhere, or that it just hadn't been taken care of so it looked better with no carpet versus ruined carpet.

Now I ended up getting one that had been completely gutted and redone, so it's hard to say. But that was just my view.

I'll agree with others on the 44 rear, I considered it a must. The full doors and soft top is nice. Also, don't forget that something that needs shocks, tires, or minor work might allow you to get in at a much lower price with the opportunity to upgrade to things that you prefer.

IDK, I always feel like no carpet gives me a much better look at all the otherwise covered floorboards, etc. Some of the carpet is hard to get underneath without taking apart the center console etc.

Depends on your goals for the Jeep, but the 35 is completely capable for lots of things, including wheeling (depending on how deep into the mess you plan to get). The 35 gets a bad rap but it's perfectly fine for at least 85%* of jeep owners. I have a 35 in my 02 and I've never considered swapping it out. And it's gone plenty of places. The Dana 44 is a better rear end, but the ultimate question is if either axle is worse in ways that actually matter for your usage. And you can still soup up a 35 if you end up wanting to do more with it.


*completely made up statistic

 

[AndyA]

I'll agree with others on the 44 rear, I considered it a must.

According to @Jerry Bransford a 35 upgraded to a Super 35 is just as capable as a 44 and I will defer to his vast experience on the matter.

I am hoping this winter to upgrade my 35 to S35 and put an e-locker in it.

Andy

 

[bbaldwin237]

According to @Jerry Bransford a 35 upgraded to a Super 35 is just as capable as a 44 and I will defer to his vast experience on the matter.

I am hoping this winter to upgrade my 35 to S35 and put an e-locker in it.

Andy

He's absolutely more knowledgeable than me, you'll not hear me argue that. But to me, it was a must to feel more confident. My first car was a '98 XJ with a Dana 35 and I've always been hesitant of them. I've also known several folks that have destroyed them and one that had the c-clip let go on the road and lost everything out the side.

So for me, knowing that I would do some wheeling in stock-ish form before getting around to building the rear, the 44 was a must. I stand by that for anyone that has no interest or expectation to build the 35. I would also wager that with similar upgrades to a 44, it's still a stronger platform. But it still varies based on what one intends to do.

 

[bucky]

Google the VIN that will give you some helpful info.