Coil springs bump stop

Could I cram a 4" spring under a 3.5" lift? Any consequences?

Also I have been reading about dropping the front axel. I know you unbolt stuff, Jack stands the body and lower floor lift to drop axel

But could I unbolt stuff and just jack the body up instead? Reversed?
 
If you put a 4” lift spring in place of the 3.5” lift springs, you’ll more than likely need to rotate your pinion angle up (via adjustable control arms) to avoid vibrations.

As for dropping the axle, don’t make it more difficult than it has to be. Start with the front first. Put two jack stands under the front driver’s side and front passenger side of the frame. Take the wheels off, unbolt the track bar from the axle side, unbolt the bottom of the shocks where they attach to the axle, unbolt the brake calipers from the rotors and hang them out of the way (don’t disconnect the brake lines), remove both tie rod ends from the knuckles, undo both sway bar links, and then unbolt the front driveshaft from the pinion.

The axle should drop at that point. I would have a jack under it before dropping it, that way you can let it down easy and take tension off the bolts as you’re undoing them.
 
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Could I cram a 4" spring under a 3.5" lift? Any consequences?

That isn't a simple answer except to say that it will be fine as long as you understand all the little nuances that may or may not need to be addressed with a change in lift height. :)

Also I have been reading about dropping the front axel. I know you unbolt stuff, Jack stands the body and lower floor lift to drop axel

But could I unbolt stuff and just jack the body up instead? Reversed?

How will you remove the springs without allowing the axle to hang free of the vehicle's weight? You'll need a very tall jack.
 
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...Take the wheels off, unbolt the track bar from the axle side, unbolt the bottom of the shocks where they attach to the axle, unbolt the brake calipers from the rotors and hang them out of the way (don’t disconnect the brake lines), remove both tie rod ends from the knuckles, undo both sway bar links, and then unbolt the front driveshaft from the pinion.

The axle should drop at that point. I would have a jack under it before dropping it, that way you can let it down easy and take tension off the bolts as you’re undoing them.

I've never removed the steering and brakes just to pull springs and cycle the axle.
 
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I've never removed the steering and brakes just to pull springs and cycle the axle.

Seriously? My springs are so long that the axle wouldn’t drop far enough for me to get the springs out without undoing the steering and taking the brake calipers off.

Unless I’m missing something...
 
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Seriously? My springs are so long that the axle wouldn’t drop far enough for me to get the springs out without undoing the steering and taking the brake calipers off.

Unless I’m missing something...
It might be the mid arms. The front axle will fall far enough that the frame side track bar mount will bind. This is after I disconnect the sway bar links. The Currie 4" springs will come out with a little effort.
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It might be the mid arms. The front axle will fall far enough that the frame side track bar mount will bind. This is after I disconnect the sway bar links. The Currie 4" springs will come out with a little effort.

You have a mid arm setup?

If so, that makes sense then. With my Savvy arms the steering and brake calipers keep it from dropping far enough to get the springs out. Well, maybe I could get them out with a long pry bar. But they don’t just come out easily like you’re talking about.
 
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Makes sense. My memory is that short arms bind against the lower axle mount at about 25" between shock mounts. Mine go to 29" because of the shallower angle.
 
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Makes sense. My memory is that short arms bind against the lower axle mount at about 25" between shock mounts. Mine go to 29" because of the shallower angle.

That explains it then! I had no idea you had mid arms. Is it a Savvy mid arm kit?
 
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It is. One of the very first to ship. I haven't seen another one in Colorado.

I’ve had my eye on one of those Savvy mid arm kits for a while. One of these days I may just have to spend the money and get one.
 
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I’ve had my eye on one of those Savvy mid arm kits for a while. One of these days I may just have to spend the money and get one.
I was lucky and got the early bird price. And I needed to move to adjustable control arms at that time anyway. I'll be the first to say that I'm not sure if my usage warrants them. But they did force me into building the Jeep better and more quickly than I originally intended.
 
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I was lucky and got the early bird price. And I needed to move to adjustable control arms at that time anyway. I'll be the first to say that I'm not sure if my usage warrants them. But they did force me into building the Jeep better and more quickly than I originally intended.

I know for sure my usage doesn’t warrant them... but I tend to overbuild (don’t we all?). Besides, they just look awesome of anything.

They are expensive though! $3600 when I last looked!
 
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I've never removed the steering and brakes just to pull springs and cycle the axle.
Maybe you could tell me please exactly what you undo to drop the axel. I'd appreciate that. I heard different guys say different things. No offense to anyone else but I'm a little thick headed and need to see things multiple times before they sink in. Lol The less I have to take apart the better. My springs are around 3.5"
 
In your picture, the jounces are rotted away. That is not the bump stop. All that part is meant to do is act as a cushion before the steel cup smacks the axle pad. The jounce will compress into the cup. Replace them with the new yellow part you found.

You do have some extension. That is the cleaner black plastic cylinder just above the cup.
Are jounce bumpers for tj's pretty much standard size for the year?
 
Correct. You want the yellow ones.
Correct. You want the yellow ones.
Couple last questions man. Thank you for all the information.
What do you personally unbolt to drop axel?
Earlier in this post I showed you my front passenger spring slipped off the axel pad and is sitting on the axel. I think I lost a retaining clip? Is this spring now bad? Can I reuse it? Or if I had to replace it , can I only replace the front springs for now? And do the rear springs maybe later?
 
Maybe you could tell me please exactly what you undo to drop the axel. I'd appreciate that. I heard different guys say different things. No offense to anyone else but I'm a little thick headed and need to see things multiple times before they sink in. Lol The less I have to take apart the better. My springs are around 3.5"
Remove the tires. If the control arms are stock stamped steel, then loosen the bolts. Loosen the track bar bushings. Disconnect the shocks at the lower mounts. Disconnect the sway bar. Lower the axle.

There have been times were I would jack up one side and attached a pair of spring compressors before droopping the axle. Having two pairs of compressors would be helpful if the same springs are going back in.

Having a couple flat pry bars might be useful.

When you cycle the axle, put the tires back on. It is helpful to know what the interferences are both with and without the shocks.

Once you go through the process and see what is going on, things should become far more clear.
 
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Couple last questions man. Thank you for all the information.
What do you personally unbolt to drop axel?
Earlier in this post I showed you my front passenger spring slipped off the axel pad and is sitting on the axel. I think I lost a retaining clip? Is this spring now bad? Can I reuse it? Or if I had to replace it , can I only replace the front springs for now? And do the rear springs maybe later?

I don't have spring retainer clips. Jeep stopped including them pretty early on. Under what circumstance did the spring slide off the axle pad? That might be a whole other topic. :)

Why do you want to replace the springs? Mixing springs is generally fine. Maybe don't do it if the difference in height is several inches.