Crossover steering

[pc1p]

All of my wheeling has been East Coast. However, that has involved sand, mud, tight woods, and big rocks. I also run locked front and rear, and run beadlocks between 8 - 10 psi. With the factory steering box/pump it got to the point where I couldn't turn the wheel while crawling over a big rock. I added the PSC box and pump, and

• -12AN feed line to the pump
• -8AN return line
• -8AN 16" Single Pass heat sink cooler

With this combination, and a 35" tire, I haven't seen the need to add the assist yet. Frankly, I'm shocked that the pump doesn't even groan when under stress. Perhaps it's because I spent a ridiculous amount of time ensuring my lines were as short and direct as possible, and bleeding the system by hand before I started it the first time.

Edit: The steering is smooth as can be at speed and I have no return to center issues. Also, I'd have to say this is probably my favorite modification. It's that good from my perspective!

Ah, looking back I think I misread where you said you installed the PSC kit (I thought you said you purchased the kit but have not yet installed - hence my shock of you not having any issues with 35"s!). It's interesting to hear your results, I assume it's the standard bore PSC box that comes in their "budget" kit?

Speaking of pump noise, I wonder if I need to give PSC a call. Mine makes zero noise on the trail, with or without the locker on, or anything related to turning the tires. It does have a small whine at high engine RPM, which I just assumed was inherent with the increased pump output, but perhaps I need to follow-up (I too was meticulous about bleeding and routing!).

 

[someguysjeep]

No. But, if you can post up some good clear pics of the front, we may be able to come up with some ideas for you.

stock JK knuckles. stock 04 TJ steering gear. flat pitman arm.
straight length of 1.5" DOM w/ 1 ton TRE's on the DL, offset mounted OTK and straight shank at the pitman.
1.5" 7075 TR bar and 1 ton (offset) TRE's.

on the road it drives fine. the steering wheel returns to center, and even with no dampener road input through to the wheel is minimal. it does tend to like to drift to the low side on slanted pavement. i can pull the TR straight/level and go drive and it'll be rotated down some when i get back.
the offset at the end of the DL could lift and plunge slightly with steering input 1 might suspect, but has been no point of issue that i can tell.

the issue is the TR being so low hanging,
and the fact the 1 ton offset joints can allow it to rotate downward more.
that claim the 7075 will bow and return is surely based upon it's ability to bend over an obstacle, not plowing into it. if i wanna play in any rocks this yr it's a concern for me.

another 1200$ for Reid knuckles and a JK TR seems the correct fix, but is this axle worth another 1200? with the reputation of the C's is it really worth any more $. the diff cover already eludes to the amount of sunken funds. then consider it came to me as a bare housing and the knot in your belly begins to tighten. but i'm not a quitter and wanna follow this through to at least 1 season of use. if it survives it then we can reevaluate it's worth to invest in further. TBH i'm already thinkin bout 60's.


pics a bit old, ends are shadowed some, sorry. until i can push it out of the garage some i got no way to get any front end shots. just no room to move all the shit piled in front of it. i understand if we just hang this up for another day based on that.

i could go all hill-jack and just wrap a bungee from the DL to TR to hol'er up ere.