Crossover steering

We keep bending ours! 😂
Which is one of the good points of its design. Its tie rod is heat treated to be strong enough to resist bending on the most difficult trails most people will encounter but it will give a tad on stupid-hard impacts before breaking something further up that is impossible to trail-fix. I've managed to slightly bend my original Currie tie-rod 2-3 times but considering the trails it didn't bend on, I was happy. It does take a big-ass press to straighten it back out, that's for sure.

I eventually replaced it with Savvy's replacement tie rod that is heat treated a bit differently. I haven't managed to bend it but I am pretty sure that's because it flexes a tad and then straightens back out on its own. However it does that kind of magic is above my pay grade.
 
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You can destroke it but the nominal length will likely still be too long for that area. (I show how to destroke in my main build thread)

I'd suggest posting up the one you have for sale jn the classifieds section and buy the correct size. A small loss now is going to gain you a lot in the long run.
 
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Or else Chris learned how to shorten shocks with a plasma cutter. The same concept applies here. I'll let him explain how. :ROFLMAO:
 
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Like anything I’ve heard from people that the Currie steering is garbage and I’ve heard that cross over steering is garbage. I’ve heard people say the ram assist should only be connected to the tie rod or the steering knuckle
Ram assist is when your male sheep or goat encounters a tall female and you grab holt of his testicles to give him a boost up. Hydro assist using a cylinder is best connected to the knuckle. If you can't, the other 3 possible locations are only minor degrees worse than each other.
 
Ram assist is when your male sheep or goat encounters a tall female and you grab holt of his testicles to give him a boost up. Hydro assist using a cylinder is best connected to the knuckle. If you can't, the other 3 possible locations are only minor degrees worse than each other.
1611793690131.webp
 
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So if I were to keep the Currie steering and use mr blaines kit. How would I modify the ram to work with his kit
First this only applies to the PSC cylinders. You start with the 1.5" bore x 6" stroke. Cut the male rod end down so it screws into the body without a jam nut all the way until the body of the head bottoms out against the cylinder. Orient that vertically lined up with the ports on the cylinder. Lock it in place with 609 or 638 locking compound from Loctite. Shorten the shaft until there is 3/4" thread, do the same to the female rod end, screw them together without jam nuts using the same locking compound.
 
How do leaf springs work?
Well yeah precisely, I just don't remember too much of what I was told about the Savvy tie rod before installing it other than it springs back. Edit: But your call seconds ago confirmed, thank you, it has just been heat treated so it's like spring steel now. Sure works great, no bends!
 
I eventually replaced it with Savvy's replacement tie rod that is heat treated a bit differently. I haven't managed to bend it but I am pretty sure that's because it flexes a tad and then straightens back out on its own. However it does that kind of magic is above my pay grade.

Someone new reading this is going to assume that the 7075 aluminium option currently available from Savvy is the same thing you are talking about here (it's not). I wish the treated 4340 option were still available.
 
Someone new reading this is going to assume that the 7075 aluminium option currently available from Savvy is the same thing you are talking about here (it's not). I wish the treated 4340 option were still available.

4340 is pretty crazy. I busted over a rock with mine (Dana 60 knuckles and beefy heims) and the only damage is missing paint. I'd imagine a lot worse results on a TJ so the not as strong options may be a blessing in disguise.
 
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This thread is making me reconsider the steering link configuration I have. I do/will have issues with the tie rod rolling. I also have a 7075 TB that is supposed to flex some. but hate he low it hangs from the JK knuckles.
Wondering if I changed the ends on the currectlync could it be made to reach JK axle width
 
This thread is making me reconsider the steering link configuration I have. I do/will have issues with the tie rod rolling. I also have a 7075 TB that is supposed to flex some. but hate he low it hangs from the JK knuckles.
Wondering if I changed the ends on the currectlync could it be made to reach JK axle width
No. But, if you can post up some good clear pics of the front, we may be able to come up with some ideas for you.
 
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Cool, thank you. Might not be until later.
I kinda isolated myself here and know it needs improvement
 
So if I were to keep the Currie steering and use mr blaines kit. How would I modify the ram to work with his kit
Assuming you have the 1.5" x 6" ram, it's a fairly simple process - so easy, I could do it! :ROFLMAO:

IMG_0233.webp


This took about 15 minutes total - 10 minutes with some masking tape and a 4" cut-off disc, then about 5 minutes with a chamfering tool and long file to make the threads buttery smooth. Some Loctite 609 (per @mrblaine suggestion) and it was done.

What size tires are you running? I have the PSC installed, but never installed the cylinder insist the kit came with. I've been driving and wheeling with it on 35" tires and haven't seen a need to install it yet.
Curious - have you only wheeled east-coast trails?

It was a night and day difference for me. My steering feels the exact same on the trail, with and without the locker turned on, as it does on the highway. No issues with loose feel on the highway and no issues twisting 35"s through tight rocky trails. I can confidently drive 80 mph without issue and would have zero reservations about my wife or friend doing the same

 
Assuming you have the 1.5" x 6" ram, it's a fairly simple process - so easy, I could do it! :ROFLMAO:

View attachment 221668

This took about 15 minutes total - 10 minutes with some masking tape and a 4" cut-off disc, then about 5 minutes with a chamfering tool and long file to make the threads buttery smooth. Some Loctite 609 (per @mrblaine suggestion) and it was done.


Curious - have you only wheeled east-coast trails?

It was a night and day difference for me. My steering feels the exact same on the trail, with and without the locker turned on, as it does on the highway. No issues with loose feel on the highway and no issues twisting 35"s through tight rocky trails. I can confidently drive 80 mph without issue and would have zero reservations about my wife or friend doing the same


All of my wheeling has been East Coast. However, that has involved sand, mud, tight woods, and big rocks. I also run locked front and rear, and run beadlocks between 8 - 10 psi. With the factory steering box/pump it got to the point where I couldn't turn the wheel while crawling over a big rock. I added the PSC box and pump, and
  • -12AN feed line to the pump
  • -8AN return line
  • -8AN 16" Single Pass heat sink cooler
With this combination, and a 35" tire, I haven't seen the need to add the assist yet. Frankly, I'm shocked that the pump doesn't even groan when under stress. Perhaps it's because I spent a ridiculous amount of time ensuring my lines were as short and direct as possible, and bleeding the system by hand before I started it the first time.

Edit: The steering is smooth as can be at speed and I have no return to center issues. Also, I'd have to say this is probably my favorite modification. It's that good from my perspective!
 
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