Ive been thinking about it for a while, I picked up a front Dana 30 re geared to 4:56 for my 33s, a currie currectlync and some dana 30 chromo shafts. Ive seen and heard of the tie rod flip. Is it easy to do? What parts will I need? If its not a PITA I think it would be worth to do while i have the whole front end apart.
Currectlync Tie Rod Flip
- Thread starter D M
- Start date
Watching this thread since this is on my short list too, I know that you at least need to relocate the swaybar link mounts (at least the driver side) - which you can do with BMB's bracket (I just ordered a set this morning): https://shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Raised-Swaybar-Link-Brackets-and-Gussets-SWAYBAR-LINK-BRACKETS.htm
From there, @strumble8 or others will have to remind me the exact parts needed to drill out the knuckle and the bung to flip the taper. I've seen a few references to the Goferit one, which should work for the Dana 44/Dana 30 as far as I know and needs to be tacked - but I'll defer to someone else to confirm.
From there, @strumble8 or others will have to remind me the exact parts needed to drill out the knuckle and the bung to flip the taper. I've seen a few references to the Goferit one, which should work for the Dana 44/Dana 30 as far as I know and needs to be tacked - but I'll defer to someone else to confirm.
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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008IJSX54/?tag=wranglerorg-20
This is the sleeve I used. Some people have had to reem it for proper tie rod fit. I
That requires a special bit for the taper. I don't recall the drill bit size. Overall its a very easy upgrade if you can weld or know a welder. I tacked the sleeve in 2 spots.
This is the sleeve I used. Some people have had to reem it for proper tie rod fit. I
That requires a special bit for the taper. I don't recall the drill bit size. Overall its a very easy upgrade if you can weld or know a welder. I tacked the sleeve in 2 spots.
I wonder why all these say Dana 30 only, aren’t the knuckles the same on the Dana 30/Dana 44?
a drill press is the best way to make these holes, it can be hard to keep enough pressure by hand to keep the large bit from hopping, not to mention wrenching your wrist if it bites in. clean tight holes are key.
TJScott
TJ Enthusiast
Excuse my question. Why flip it? I have a Currie in the garage to install this weekend. It sounds like more work To flip it than I’m willing to do. Just curious.
Flipping the tie rod gains clearance on a vulnerable part. It also looks better as it sits parallel to the axle. I believe you will also need either wheel spacers or wheels with less backspacing than factory in order to clear the tie rod end.
an inch is a lot when it's the lowest hangin fruit right out front.
there are 20 diff drill in tapered bungs, as long as it the taper you need it'll work some like the 1 yall posted have a bit more meat than others.
i have them at every connection in the front end.
there are 20 diff drill in tapered bungs, as long as it the taper you need it'll work some like the 1 yall posted have a bit more meat than others.
i have them at every connection in the front end.
Would flipping it add any bump steer since the angle of the drag link will no longer be as close to parallel as ideal with the track bar?
Get Mr. Starkey to show you his when it gets there. That is my preferred methodology if I'm not doing a knuckle from a big brake kit.
This guy.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/page-20
This guy.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawling-daily-driver.26000/page-20
downthepines
TJ Enthusiast
The Currie Steering/Tierod is next for me. So this is relevant for me aswell. Wasn't aware of this previously.
If you currently have one, I do it the same. If you are going to get one, get in touch before you order and I do the flip for free and throw in a set of the raised swaybar mounts. No insert, I just taper them from the other side. I have several of each size with a straight hole that is the minor diameter of the taper.
Currently have but may want to go bigger in the future so I’ll be sure to remember that.
Easy to do is relative. It’s not bolt on. You need to weld on new sway bar mounts and cut the old ones off. Then get a knuckle from Blaine that’s tapered on the top. It’s taken me a good bit of cycling and checking things to make sure everything plays nice during articulation and turning.
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