Currie Currectlync install issue

So it looks like Previous Owner (PO) mods plus my own limited knowledge of what the stock suspension looked like is coming back to bite me in the butt.

I took my LJ in to an offroad shop today to get the old/bent lower control arm brackets removed snd have new HD ones welded on (Barnes). I also showed him the interference issue with the tierod/track bar and he pointed out that I have a really tall lift. I told him it was only 4in, but then he pointe out rubber on top of the front springs. He said it also has 2inch pucks at the top.

I thought I had removed all of the old budget lift from the PO, but I guess not. So the last 6 months I’ve been running with 6in lift in the front lol ‍♂️. Luckily he said he’ll remove the pucks and this is probably the root of all my issues.

I just had knee surgery, so I asked to adjust the control arms for me. Hopefully this will be the end of this issue

Stuff like this makes me never want to buy another modified used vehicle

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Oh wow... That's got to be a 2" spacer at least, so you're sitting at 6". At 6" of suspension lift, you'll run into all sorts of issues that don't typically show themselves with the standard 4" lift.

Buying modified vehicles can be tricky. I tend to only purchase stock vehicles, but I'll buy a modified one if the previous owner used quality parts.

One reason I like forums like this is because if you buy a vehicle from a person who was active on a forum and had a "build thread" you can always go through their build thread and follow their progress in regards to what they did with the vehicle before you owned it.

Removing those spacers should make a big difference!
 
Whats crazy is the only issue I’ve had is the original one stated above. Never had vibrations from the drive shaft nor any death wobble issues. Probably would’ve had it like this forever if I didn’t install the currectlync


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I had a similar issue, although mine cleared (barely). Additionally, the Currie tapered bolts did not seat properly in the knuckle. The Rock Jock techs were scratching their heads on that one, so I returned it and went with a different product.
 
I had a similar issue, although mine cleared (barely). Additionally, the Currie tapered bolts did not seat properly in the knuckle. The Rock Jock techs were scratching their heads on that one, so I returned it and went with a different product.
If they didn't seat properly, the knuckle is at fault.
 
Reading and researching, I'm thinking the previous owner must've drilled them out for the prior set up. What are your thoughts on the fix? I see Terraflex sells a taperd tie rod end insert, but is this a fix I should consider?

https://www.quadratec.com/products/16356_1112.htm
Up to you. That or a set of good take off knuckles will fix it up. Guessing the product you went with instead of Currie doesn't use tapered pins?
 
So I thought I had gone with a different product, but the shop actually hadn't done any work on it and said they couldn't fit me in for this repair until after Labor Day! Got the Jeep back, started looking at it and realized the knuckles were not drilled out, they still had a taper. I didn't see any obvious signs of wear either, but the Currie tie rod ends certainly were not seating correctly. After much puzzling over this, I finally realized the obvious...I just needed a washer under the castle nut to take up the quarter inch of play. Worked like a champ.
 
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So I thought I had gone with a different product, but the shop actually hadn't done any work on it and said they couldn't fit me in for this repair until after Labor Day! Got the Jeep back, started looking at it and realized the knuckles were not drilled out, they still had a taper. I didn't see any obvious signs of wear either, but the Currie tie rod ends certainly were not seating correctly. After much puzzling over this, I finally realized the obvious...I just needed a washer under the castle nut to take up the quarter inch of play. Worked like a champ.
Knuckles are bad. The obvious sign of wear is needing a washer.
 
I recently installed a used Currie Currectlync in my '01 and had no problems getting the TREs to seat in the knuckles. The only requirement was to torque the castle nut to the recommended amount (55 ft/lbs).
It’s getting an alignment now, I will be sure to let them know of the torque spec. I will keep an eye on the knuckles as well. I will need to replace ball joints and U-joints sometime this next year, so if the knuckles are worn I will replace them as well. Appreciate of all the advice.
 
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Ball joints and U-Joints replaced, followed the alignment procedure Jerry linked to, everything is as it should be now. There was nothing wrong with the knuckles, it was the knucklehead who owns the shop I took it to who was the problem. He tried telling me it couldn't be aligned, and that the center tie rod was bad (new out of the box). He only deals in Rugged Ridge and I'm pretty sure he was just trying to sell me another steering set up. I have learned a lot from these threads since last December, thanks guys!
 
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Ball joints and U-Joints replaced, followed the alignment procedure Jerry linked to, everything is as it should be now. There was nothing wrong with the knuckles, it was the knucklehead who owns the shop I took it to who was the problem. He tried telling me it couldn't be aligned, and that the center tie rod was bad (new out of the box). He only deals in Rugged Ridge and I'm pretty sure he was just trying to sell me another steering set up. I have learned a lot from these threads since last December, thanks guys!
Good to hear that there were no problems with the Currectlync....
Thanks for the update.