Dana 35
While you decide what you want you should wheel that axle and you can even put a Super 35 kit into it.
Dana 35
Oh wow, I'm a student at Tech in Russellville so I'm up that way a lot. I need to get hooked up with yall sometimeThanks!
I’m in the Clarksville Area. Ride with the Ozark Jeep Junkies.
Thank you I'll look for it. From what I've gathered it's better to build a Dana 44 than a Dana 35 and I don't mind spending some cash. I'd even consider a built 8.8 but I'll look into the super 35There was a guy on Jeep-Owner that put the mid arm on his (presumably Super) Dana 35. There is a link to his build somewhere in my build thread.
I subscribe to the mindset that if I'm going to spend the money I might as well spend a little extra and be done in the first go lol, if 35's are the plan I may see if I can make the current axle work, but I'd rather just put some beef under there up front and save the effort. A friend of mine gave the same advice though, to just send it with the Dana 35 and when it breaks just replace it. It's some real food for thought and would be cheaper up front, thanks for the advice though. I'm probably way newer at this than anybody here.While you decide what you want you should wheel that axle and you can even put a Super 35 kit into it.
Contrary to the false rumor some cluelessly repeat, there's not a thing wrong with upgrading a Dana 35 with a Super 35 kit with 30 spline 1541H axle shafts. That combination is well known to work well, it was tested in Johnson Valley CA on some of the toughest trails in the US.I subscribe to the mindset that if I'm going to spend the money I might as well spend a little extra and be done in the first go lol, if 35's are the plan I may see if I can make the current axle work, but I'd rather just put some beef under there up front and save the effort. A friend of mine gave the same advice though, to just send it with the Dana 35 and when it breaks just replace it. It's some real food for thought and would be cheaper up front, thanks for the advice though. I'm probably way newer at this than anybody here.
I'd probably upgrade to some Timken unit bearings and some good ball joints like Synergy or something of similar quality. The axle itself shouldn't be a problem but it is a valid concern about everything else. From what I've heard about this company their customer service is great and the fact that I can get a built out Currie housing dropped in my garage ready to bolt in is a huge plus for me, especially since they put their upgraded chromoly shafts in it. Seems like the best complete deal to me when it comes to bolt on axles.
CURRIE reccomends a 64 inch wide (wms) axle for 35’s and up to gain clearance and it will increase the turning radius. (More stress on components)I have been contemplating this same decision. Here’s my choice...
I’m going to stay at a 35” tire and run Currie Short Arms With my stock Dana 30/Dana 44 And 4.56 gears. I choose 4.56 because the PO swapped them in.
Reasons... Several On here run this combo with a few wheeling out in Johnson Valley , the hardest trails in the US.
They don’t experience much breakage and they have a lot of success.
35” is a very streetable tire and is big enough for anything I plan, for sure.
I’ve been down the 37”+ tire route. It’s not all it’s cracked up to be. Once you start swapping axles, extending wheelbases, and chopping up your rig it just turns into a nightmare of compromise, money, and effort.
I am going to stay within the parameters of the original vehicle this time...wheelbase, bracketry, etc etc.
And I’m going to be much happier with a very driveable and wheelable rig.
How is that measured? Who came up with that?Johnson Valley , the hardest trails in the US.
Its often repeated and claimed that a super 35 is stronger than a Dana 44. Go for it!Thank you I'll look for it. From what I've gathered it's better to build a Dana 44 than a Dana 35 and I don't mind spending some cash. I'd even consider a built 8.8 but I'll look into the super 35
So Synergy is hyped up BS then? I'd heard they were pretty good but I guess that wasn't trueContrary to the false rumor some cluelessly repeat, there's not a thing wrong with upgrading a Dana 35 with a Super 35 kit with 30 spline 1541H axle shafts. That combination is well known to work well, it was tested in Johnson Valley CA on some of the toughest trails in the US.
For ball joints to fit the Dana 30 (or TJ Rubicon front Dana 44) the LAST brand you want to install are Synergy which just cause problems. Not only do the Synergys not last, they are knurled which wrecks the C's for any future replacements. Go with the upgraded Spicer 706944X which is a direct fit/replacement for the OE Spicer ball joints the factory installed.
CURRIE reccomends a 64 inch wide (wms) axle for 35’s and up to gain clearance and it will increase the turning radius. (More stress on components)
How is that measured? Who came up with that?
If Johnson Valley is the hardest trail in the US, whats the second hardest trail in the US? seems likethe one who knows what the hardest trail in the US would also know the second hardest, or am I off here?
Its often repeated and claimed that a super 35 is stronger than a Dana 44. Go for it!
Minimum WMS?For 37s you'll need a wider axle, at least a Dana 60 front and rear,
Im not trolling. Currie does recommend a 64 inch wms when going to a Dana 44 and 35’s or bigger.Are you looking for an argument? Or just feeling like trolling on a Saturday Morning?
Again as I posted earlier, Currie reccomends 64 inches with their bolt in TJ/LJ Dana 44 with 35’s.Minimum WMS?
I look at it this way, Dana/Spicer engineers, researches, designs, and manufactures the Dana/Spicer Dana 30, 44, 50, 60, etc, right?So Synergy is hyped up BS then? I'd heard they were pretty good but I guess that wasn't true
Again as I posted earlier, Currie reccomends 64 inches with their Dana 44
with 35’s.
A factory SRW hubbed Dana 60 from Dana/Spicer typically is full width which equated to 69.5 inches +
That's a fair point. At times aftermarket companies can improve on designs, but sticking with stock axles it would make sense to use the manufacturer's parts.I look at it this way, Dana/Spicer engineers, researches, designs, and manufactures the Dana/Spicer Dana 30, 44, 50, 60, etc, right?
Typically Dana also makes the balljoints that work best with their axles. Not that it’s always true for all parts of the axle, but the u-joints, ball joints, and gears are usually the best fit when built by Dana.
Could be the same reason some rock sliders (Savvy) eventually went on to offer a “step,” on their slider. Customers “wanted,” it.they also sell a stock width Dana 60 with stock TJ outers.
You’re exactly right.That's a fair point. At times aftermarket companies can improve on designs, but sticking with stock axles it would make sense to use the manufacturer's parts.
Could be the same reason some rock sliders (Savvy) eventually went on to offer a “step,” on their slider. Customers “wanted,” it.
Or the same reason as to why the Johnny Joint evtually started coming with a grease fitting. Customer also “wanted,” it.
True, 35’s can fit on stock TJ/LJ width axles. We can agree to disagree. The same goal can be achieved with wheel spacers.And despite what Currie says about 35s and axle width, we know very well how to fit 35s on stock width axles.