65wms for 37s seems to be a good amount for lots of areas and what I used for my build. But look at what works well in the areas you want to go.
Currie Short Arm vs. Savvy Mid-Arm
- Thread starter jordans05tj
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65wms for 37s seems to be a good amount for lots of areas and what I used for my build. But look at what works well in the areas you want to go.
Muddyjeep276
Member
With the Savvy Mid-Arm, how much difference would the truss on the axle housing make for axle strenth?
Is the truss height and upper control arm mounts the reason a BL is used with the kit?
I don't mean to Jack the thread or anything. I think that savvy midarm is on my shortlist too$$ if funds allow
Is the truss height and upper control arm mounts the reason a BL is used with the kit?
I don't mean to Jack the thread or anything. I think that savvy midarm is on my shortlist too$$ if funds allow
The mini trusses are mostly there as a control arm mount and only bridge over the center section. Though the front has a small leg to support the long tube for the 3 link. It's barely noticable when looking from the outside.
The primary reason for the body lift is to make room for the frame side upper mounts. However, your overall build plan ought to take advantage of the added room for up travel gained by both the body lift (and the motor mount lift from the tummy tuck you better have).
No, JV is not the hardest trail, it has some of the hardest trails in the US for rock trails. There are trails out there that are only able to be done by rigs on 40's. There are harder ones that you need a buggy on at least 40's to have a chance. There are harder ones than that.
No it can't. Currie's recommendation is based on a correctly centered 35 for a proper scrub radius. You can NOT do that on a stock width axle with 35's.
OP
Lol that's what this thread was supposed to be about, it kinda got turned into an axle discussion and 35s vs 37s
To bring this back up, does anybody know if the mid arm trusses can be installed on a set of Currie Dana 60s or if they can be ordered with the brackets already installed, given the relationship between Savvy and Currie? Or if Savvy can provide the appropriate brackets with the mid arm kit? I've been contemplating the axle swap and mid arm upgrade.
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They can NOT be used on a 60 since they are nowhere near the same size and shape. Nor can they be ordered that way. There is also an issue of where to put the single front upper based on how much uptravel you have versus axle width. We custom locate each one that we do based on all of that.
Thanks. Just to verify, those axles that Currie sells as TJ bolts ins should just bolt up to my Savvy short arm, right? With the necessary adjustments to arms for pinion. Maybe I should just do the 60s, some good shocks, and call it a day. The front end gets light up hills, but I know I'm already compromising that with my 37s, so it's just compounding at this point. My other consideration was just starting over with an LJ.
I looked through probably half of it yesterday, found it because I was researching just that. Might have missed that part. I kind of figured the axle would need modifying. And worst case I could mock up the mid arm brackets on my Dana 44 per their instructions, note the measurements, and transfer them over to the D60s with custom brackets. Perhaps I'm in over my head but it seems like they should work one way or another. I'll go dig through your thread some more.
Don't just copy the position that Savvy places the front axle side UCA mount. You need to make sure it packages well by cycling the axle.
OP
I see why the kit wouldn't fit on the Dana 60, what about the bolt in Currie or some other brand of Dana 44's? Could some of the Currie bolt-in axles be modified to fit this kit?
I use it all the time with Currie axles, bolt in and otherwise. You just have to understand that it won't be a bolt in on the axle and the front and rear uppers will have to be dealt with.
OP
The kit uses LCA mounts in the factory locations on both axles doesn't it? I know the truss pieces need to be welded for all the uppers and that's not a really big deal to me. Cutting into 9 grand worth of axles may cause some hesitation but it's worth it in the end
You can see everything that needs to be done for the front and rear in my build thread. The rear is relatively easy but make sure you buy it with the bridge/truss which you'll need to lower. In the front you'll need to make your own plate. Savvy includes the 3 loose brackets for the UCAs.
OP
Would you mind linking that thread here? Not real sure how to find it I'm fairly new on here