Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

Just the normal method of starting at the wheel furthest from the master and working to the closest. That doesn't change. The difference is to use the lockout tool
I wonder if it’s needed if you run a power bleeder? I don’t mess with the pedal when bleeding my brakes.
 
I wonder if it’s needed if you run a power bleeder? I don’t mess with the pedal when bleeding my brakes.
I have been using a Motive pressure tank about half the time. The most recent bleed before yesterday with a helper working the pedal.
 
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I wonder if it’s needed if you run a power bleeder? I don’t mess with the pedal when bleeding my brakes.
It is never "needed", it is just an aid. The later TJ combo valve has a lighter spring on the plunger switch that holds the shuttle valve in place. If you do a manual bleed, you have to have the key on so you can see the brake light turn on when the valve shifts. Then you have to shift it back.

If you want to know if a method is working, simply go to a caliper, put a clear hose on it and have someone push the pedal down when you open the bleeder. If no air comes out, the method works, if air comes out, it doesn't.
 
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I've been into Dodge D/W and RamChargers for a while and I see this ALL THE TIME! Forums, Facebook, whatever, people all come in complaining about how they can't bleed the system. So many poor suggestions as to the fix - from replacing the booster (on spongy brakes?? come on!) to going with mismatched master cylinders and everything in between. I explain, link, debate and 9/10 times the person doesn't listen, swaps a bunch of parts with no change, to them have them come back and say "hey, it was the prop (sic) valve stuck!"...

For those that don't understand what the Bleeding Tool does, here is a good video here showing where the bleeding tool goes:
 
I've been into Dodge D/W and RamChargers for a while and I see this ALL THE TIME! Forums, Facebook, whatever, people all come in complaining about how they can't bleed the system. So many poor suggestions as to the fix - from replacing the booster (on spongy brakes?? come on!)
That's one of my personal favorites. Brakes are spongy so lets replace the part that does the exact opposite of making spongy brakes when it needs replacement.
to going with mismatched master cylinders and everything in between. I explain, link, debate and 9/10 times the person doesn't listen, swaps a bunch of parts with no change, to them have them come back and say "hey, it was the prop (sic) valve stuck!"...
We've been telling folks to bleed with the key on for a very long time. The brake light will trip, you can hear the valve click, you can tell what is going on.
For those that don't understand what the Bleeding Tool does, here is a good video here showing where the bleeding tool goes:
We made our own using a bolt, drilling it and then threading that for an 8-32 screw with a point on it. I didn't know it was a product, when I found out they make them I tried to find one that fits the TJ combo valve. When I couldn't, I designed it and had a run done.
 
We've been telling folks to bleed with the key on for a very long time. The brake light will trip, you can hear the valve click, you can tell what is going on.
In all the brake bleeding I've done, this never occurred to me, i.e. the fact that I could have a visible and audible check! (y)
 
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Is this only for rear disc brakes or all years? Maybe that's why I got semi-squishy brakes 😬
Maybe a hint here...
If you want to know if a method is working, simple go to a caliper, put a clear hose on it and have someone push the pedal down when you open the bleeder. If no air comes out, the method works, it air comes out, it doesn't.
 
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Maybe a hint here...
I think I don't know enough about the brake system to be asking questions. I wasn't sure if this was specific to rear discs or if the valve is relevant to all 4 corners. For some reason I thought there was a little valve for rear drums that limits fluid?
 
I think I don't know enough about the brake system to be asking questions. I wasn't sure if this was specific to rear discs or if the valve is relevant to all 4 corners. For some reason I thought there was a little valve for rear drums that limits fluid?
Asking is how you learn...no shame there! ;)
 
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I think I don't know enough about the brake system to be asking questions. I wasn't sure if this was specific to rear discs or if the valve is relevant to all 4 corners. For some reason I thought there was a little valve for rear drums that limits fluid?
The combination block in all TJ models is very similar and all have the exact same functions. They have a proportioning valve, a shuttle valve, and act as a connection point for the master to the brake system whether it is from the combo block to the corners or to the ABS pump.

The rear of the combo block is nothing but a Tee to give the port on the master a way to deliver fluid to both front calipers. The shuttle shifts when differential pressure is high enough on one side due to low pressure indicative of a "leak" on the other which shuts off or restricts flow to the low side to maintain brake function in one circuit.

The proportional function allows pressure to build at the same rate as the front circuit until it reaches a certain point then it reduces the rate that the pressure increases.

The two different rates for drum and rear discs are not very different from each other.
 
The combination block in all TJ models is very similar and all have the exact same functions. They have a proportioning valve, a shuttle valve, and act as a connection point for the master to the brake system whether it is from the combo block to the corners or to the ABS pump.

The rear of the combo block is nothing but a Tee to give the port on the master a way to deliver fluid to both front calipers. The shuttle shifts when differential pressure is high enough on one side due to low pressure indicative of a "leak" on the other which shuts off or restricts flow to the low side to maintain brake function in one circuit.

The proportional function allows pressure to build at the same rate as the front circuit until it reaches a certain point then it reduces the rate that the pressure increases.

The two different rates for drum and rear discs are not very different from each other.
That makes a lot more sense, and a lot easier to visualize.
Thank you.
 
OMG! I'm finally caught up on this Epic. I've learned a bunch and changed some of my own plans, basic as they are, based on what I've seen and read. I need to get my Jeep built and start hitting trails again. It's been far too long! This has been an amazing read. Thanks for sharing all of it. Can't wait to see where it goes from here.
 
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OMG! I'm finally caught up on this Epic. I've learned a bunch and changed some of my own plans, basic as they are, based on what I've seen and read. I need to get my Jeep built and start hitting trails again. It's been far too long! This has been an amazing read. Thanks for sharing all of it. Can't wait to see where it goes from here.
I need to get my act together on a couple interesting things I want to do before the end of summer.
 
Spring Creek this morning
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