Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build

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Halfway to a switch!

This is a rear door plunger switch from a 2001 XJ. I am nearly certain this is the same as the TJ door switch, but with a weather seal at the connecter and a slightly different housing to attach to the body.
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After a long search of where to build a mount and a pad for the switch, I found this existing hole in the grill that is both the right size and hides the switch body and wiring inside the grill.
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The hole matches up with this slot in the hood that I plugged with a piece of aluminum to activate the switch.
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Everything lines up and I didn't need to do any additional shimming to close (open) the plunger switch.
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I will try this out and if I don't like it, I didn't make any changes to the body this time!
 
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The under hood lights have been on hold due to weather and life and nice batteries dying a young death.

Last week Thursday, I decided to drive the Jeep into work and noticed a slightly slow starter upon start up after unplugging the trickle charger. At the end of the day, the battery was dead with only clicks. I got a jump start and drove home and plugged in the trickle charger. Friday afternoon, the battery was dead again.

This battery was an Advance Auto re-release of the Diehard Platinum from June 2021. It lived 3.5 years despite being plugged in almost every night and day that it wasn't on the road.

It seems Advance no longer has a group 34 DH Platinum available. So, I ordered an Odyssey Extreme from Napa that took all week to ship via UPS.
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Something that has changed on the Odyssey since my last one died is that the terminals are brass instead of lead.
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This is the fourth AGM battery in ten years, with an average lifespan of about 3.3333 years. I'll be doing this again summer of 2028.
 
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The under hood lights have been on hold due to weather and life and nice batteries dying a young death.

Last week Thursday, I decided to drive the Jeep into work and noticed a slightly slow starter upon start up after unplugging the trickle charger. At the end of the day, the battery was dead with only clicks. I got a jump start and drove home and plugged in the trickle charger. Friday afternoon, the battery was dead again.

This battery was an Advance Auto re-release of the Diehard Platinum from June 2021. It lived 3.5 years despite being plugged in almost every night and day that it wasn't on the road.

It seems Advance no longer has a group 34 DH Platinum available. So, I ordered an Odyssey Extreme from Napa that took all week to ship via UPS.
View attachment 591147

Something that has changed on the Odyssey since my last one died is that the terminals are brass instead of lead.
View attachment 591149

This is the fourth AGM battery in ten years, with an average lifespan of about 3.3333 years. I'll be doing this again summer of 2028.

What kind of trickle charger are you using on them? AGM specific?
 
What kind of trickle charger are you using on them? AGM specific?

A 1.5amp Schumacher thing. I have a new 2amp NoCo charger for AGMs that I will install in the near future.

I'm not sure it matters because the first DH Platinum never had a trickle charger and the first Odyssey didn't get one until a halfway through it's life.

They all lasted about the same amount.
 
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A 1.5amp Schumacher thing. I have a new 2amp NoCo charger for AGMs that I will install in the near future.

I'm not sure it matters because the first DH Platinum never had a trickle charger and the first Odyssey didn't get one until a halfway through it's life.

They all lasted about the same amount.

I’ve got a battery tender AGM trickler that has been unimpressive but I admittedly don’t take care of the batteries like I should.

Sams is easy to get replacements from so I’ve been going that route.
 
Jay Leno and I use CTek chargers. I only plug in the charger if I know it will be sitting for weeks at a time.

I have an 8 year old Odyssey that is still going strong. @jjvw, are you sure you don't have some issue with your charging system?
 
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How would I know?

Start by checking your charging voltage. And I haven't looked but there is probably some diagnostic procedures in the FSM. If my battery was dying that frequently, I would suspect the alternator or voltage regulator since you've sort of ruled out the trickle charger.

I know I've read where some with certain years install a separate voltage regulator because the PCM does it not so well in some cases. On my '05, I believe the regulator is built into the alternator. I've never had an issue with batteries dying. I put the Odyssey in when I first got the Jeep. I've been thinking it might be time for a new one just based on the age but it shows no signs of failing.

How is your voltage regulator configured? How old is your alternator?
 
Start by checking your charging voltage. And I haven't looked but there is probably some diagnostic procedures in the FSM. If my battery was dying that frequently, I would suspect the alternator or voltage regulator since you've sort of ruled out the trickle charger.

I know I've read where some with certain years install a separate voltage regulator because the PCM does it not so well in some cases. On my '05, I believe the regulator is built into the alternator. I've never had an issue with batteries dying. I put the Odyssey in when I first got the Jeep. I've been thinking it might be time for a new one just based on the age but it shows no signs of failing.

How is your voltage regulator configured? How old is your alternator?

Alternater is a 160a Durango. Last I checked in recent months, it was pushing the same high 13.x amps it always has.

The thing is that all batteries in all the vehicles I have attended to have all had batteries tire only lasted 3-4 years out here. The small fleet of box trucks I had during a different life would be lucky to get 2-3 years.

I have asked mechanics about it, and all say the same thing. The massive freeze/thaw cycles we have, often with 60 temp swings in a day during the winter, ruins batteries.

Coincidentally, we had a week like that just before this battery died with a big fast drop from t-shirt weather into the sub zero temps.
 
On my '05, I believe the regulator is built into the alternator.
It’s in the PCM, and there is at least one thread on here noting that the charging voltage is too low for AGMs. HPTuners allows you to change that charging voltage. I have HPTuners, but my LJ is not even close to drivable right now, so I haven’t tried that, yet. I did have a NorthStar that lasted only six months, so I’m keen to try upping the voltage.
 
Driving right now and voltage shows 13.6 at idle and 14.7ish while moving.

How do we identify a changing issue that extends the life of a battery from 3.5 years to 5-7 years?
 
It’s in the PCM, and there is at least one thread on here noting that the charging voltage is too low for AGMs. HPTuners allows you to change that charging voltage. I have HPTuners, but my LJ is not even close to drivable right now, so I haven’t tried that, yet. I did have a NorthStar that lasted only six months, so I’m keen to try upping the voltage.

IIRC, that is also tied into the random nature of whether or not there is a battery temp sensor installed. Around 05-06, they do and don't have them regardless of any other parameter. Without the sensor, the charge voltage is fixed and at a less than ideal rate. (IIRC)
 
FWIW, mine does have the sensor.

AGM max charging voltage is around 14.6, 14.7 for the AGM batteries I've seen specs for but that's only part of the story. If 14.6 is maintained after bulk charge has completed, it would beovercharging..
 
FWIW, mine does have the sensor.

AGM max charging voltage is around 14.6, 14.7 for the AGM batteries I've seen specs for but that's only part of the story. If 14.6 is maintained after bulk charge has completed, it would beovercharging..

This is feeling like it requires data logging while knowing what things are supposed to look like in order to identity if there is a problem to be solved there.
 
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This is feeling like it requires data logging while knowing what things are supposed to look like in order to identity if there is a problem to be solved there.

I have the same issue as you, JJ. I can’t get an AGM to last longer than about 3 years - and sometimes not even 2. And I’m in the South, not nearly your cold temperature extremes. I originally thought it was the much discussed issue with the Mexico produced Optimas, but now I have gone through an Odyssey Extreme in under three years, and now on my second.

I do have the temp sensor, but truthfully I don’t know if the Hemi PCM uses it or not. I have a bunch of data logs where I’ve also tracked the voltage. I’ll have to take a look, and do some research on target voltage for the AGM’s.
 
IIRC, that is also tied into the random nature of whether or not there is a battery temp sensor installed. Around 05-06, they do and don't have them regardless of any other parameter. Without the sensor, the charge voltage is fixed and at a less than ideal rate. (IIRC)

Yes, I’ve looked in HPTuners, and the charging table is temperature vs voltage. Mine has the battery temp sensor. I haven’t modified anything, yet.
 
I have the same issue as you, JJ. I can’t get an AGM to last longer than about 3 years - and sometimes not even 2. And I’m in the South, not nearly your cold temperature extremes. I originally thought it was the much discussed issue with the Mexico produced Optimas, but now I have gone through an Odyssey Extreme in under three years, and now on my second.

I wonder if the smooth-brained folks on social media will finally stop with the "oPtImA aRe JuNk nOw ThAt ThEy aRe MaDe In MeXiCo!!" (most of them not realizing that ~90% of the batteries in NA are made in Mexico and that Johnson started producing Mexican Optimas in 2007)...
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts