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Daily Driver, Go Where I Want To Build
- Thread starter jjvw
- Start date
People generally do it to even out the throttle response when rolling over rough ground. Beyond that, I do not see any real value of one once you figure out how to control your foot from bouncing.
I almost exclusively used mine to increase the rpms for the York air compressor to fill tires faster. Though, the hand throttle never went back in after the transmission swap several years ago. And I no longer have the York installed. Occasionally, I would use it to get moving again after stalling the engine on a steep climb, but the transmission change eliminated that issue with having a clutch pedal. Engine rpms at idle during winching has never a problem, so I do not understand that as a rationale.
With a whole lot of hindsight, I mostly think people are dazzled by the mechanical whimsicallity created with hand throttles, more than any actual usefulness they provide.
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One more little thing out of the way. I drilled and tapped the new bumper to reattach the old Savvy steering gear skid.
Another small but important thing off the list is a quick release coupler for the new air compressor.
After months of occasional thinking on the matter, I decided the ARB manifold attached to the tool box was the quickest and most efficient mount for the coupler.
After months of occasional thinking on the matter, I decided the ARB manifold attached to the tool box was the quickest and most efficient mount for the coupler.
I've lost count how many times I could've used these! Thanks, added to my list of wants. (needs)
I've lost count how many times I could've used these! Thanks, added to my list of wants. (needs)
If you can combine them with a T handle, even better. No experience with this one but as an example.
https://drpd.cc/tool-shop/ratchets-...-tools/ko-ken-3-8-ratcheting-tap-handle-160k/
I usually use a 3/8 t-handle, especially on small taps. I go clockwise a bit, then 1/2 turn counter clockwise to break the chip. Keeps me from breaking the tap.
Not for nothing but we've all stashed the square sockets that came in our Craftsman socket sets because we didn't know what to do with them. They fit a lot of taps and when they don't, we use a 12 point socket on some of our big taps.
Blaine and I have talked about underhood lighting off and on over the years. My GM reel light quit working and the factory light has always been useless. So, I am in the process of making something with the same KC Cyclone LED discs as my rock lights.
This is the first test fit of one arm after roughing out the center mount.
The idea is to have a pair of lights near the front of the hood that point down into the engine bay.
But also have the ability to reposition forward to stay above the engine when the hood is back against the windshield.
The arms are 1/2" aluminum solid rod. The knuckles are made from GoPro aluminum mounting bits and pieces with a lot of mixing and matching.
The arm is too long and will interfere with the radiator. The light assembly needs to be parked somewhere above the fan shroud for the default location where the future catching mechanism will be.
This is the first test fit of one arm after roughing out the center mount.
The idea is to have a pair of lights near the front of the hood that point down into the engine bay.
But also have the ability to reposition forward to stay above the engine when the hood is back against the windshield.
The arms are 1/2" aluminum solid rod. The knuckles are made from GoPro aluminum mounting bits and pieces with a lot of mixing and matching.
The arm is too long and will interfere with the radiator. The light assembly needs to be parked somewhere above the fan shroud for the default location where the future catching mechanism will be.
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The hood light project is waiting for more parts and for Amazon to quit screwing up.
In the meantime, the Jeep gets very nice Holley Retrobright headlights to replace the always disappointing TruckLites.
In the meantime, the Jeep gets very nice Holley Retrobright headlights to replace the always disappointing TruckLites.
What didn't you like about the Truck Lites, specifically were there performance issues?
These are the Modern 5700k, which is far less blue than the TLs were.
And very close in color to the Baja Designs auxiliary lighting.
I need to do a tiny amount of aiming, but the cutoff is pretty crisp and stops right below the rear window.
And very close in color to the Baja Designs auxiliary lighting.
I need to do a tiny amount of aiming, but the cutoff is pretty crisp and stops right below the rear window.
My number one complaint about the TLs is that, while they were much brighter than the factory headlights, everything looked grey and washed out. I never thought they were a nice light to look through.
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TruckLites
Retrobrights
The Retrobrights throw much more light, and it is far nicer to look through. I now see a lot more color.
Retrobrights
The Retrobrights throw much more light, and it is far nicer to look through. I now see a lot more color.
I saw the lights in person beginning of November. They are really nice. 5700K is the better choice as well. Your pics show the difference very nicely.
The big push to change the Jeep was after I saw how good the Baja Designs light color was compared to the existing headlights. I know this already from work when I have to use other people's task lighting compared to my Milwaukee lights. They got the color temp right and it makes other stuff irritating to use.
FWIW, I researched the different off-the-shelf mixes, including what you listed, before I yanked my AEM W/M kit. Folks’ charts showed that the w/m ratios are not consistent batch-to-batch, and it was recommended to avoid the purple (de-icer) and green (bug remover) windshield washer fluids to avoid the additives. If I had kept the kit, I would have considered getting a 55 gallon drum of -20 ww fluid (about 30% methanol) from Napa or Oreillys (currently $140 w/ store pickup) and then adding some VP M1 from a 55 gallon drum to bump up my mix to 50/50.
Your Boost Juice numbers look close to what your ratio would be if the company mixed 50/50 by weight rather than volume.
I'm a bit late in realizing you have a SC. In case any of this is useful: For tracking AFRs, I ran a Ballenger Motorsport AFR500 v2 display (in Lamba for Meth) with an NTK calibration-grade sensor since its more robust for meth than the Bosch 4.2 or 4.9. I also used an Heat-Sink Bung Extender (HBX-1) to pull the sensor out of the exhaust stream. No issues to report other than the display being unsightly. I yanked it once the intercooler was installed and I no longer needed to modify the CARB legal tune to lower my IATs.
I have the discontinued Banks water meth kit (came with the turbo). It acts similar to the Snow Performance controller (and uses SP nozzles), which I now greatly prefer over the AEM kit that I installed. What size nozzle are you running and what psi do you have the spray come on at...and then bumping higher at?
What do your IATs look like, compared to ambient temps, when you are all warmed up and in the throttle at faster speeds?
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Did your trucklites have that ridiculous X or V artifact right in the middle of the beam? That is definitely something I find irritating about mine.
The Retro’s look interesting…
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