Dave Kishpaugh's (Jeep West) geometry correction brackets are now available

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How much taller are the upper brackets compared to the stock brackets with a JKS angled relocation bracket for the TB? I know he mentioned a 1" BL needed to clear the tub and maintain 2" bump extensions, but was curious if I could get away with my 1/2" BL. I already have 2" bumps in the rear for the TB so it doesn't hit the rear cross member.
Ask Dave. He can probably come up with a solution. I think the upper axle mount is raised 2-5/8”. Here is a photo for reference.

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Your rig? Ha that’s great. What do you think of the results? Any other work done at the same time?
Dave did it when I was home in January, no other work was done.

I really like the GC. I can't comment on the off road differences, but it handles much better on the road. I'm not a fan of the OME Nitros, and I think I'm going to try some different shocks before the year is over.
 
Because it has been repeated so many times that there is nothing wrong with short arms on 4” lift. It works but there is a lot wrong with it. People start looking elsewhere for improvement. Shocks is the next thing. By the time you get a off the shelf shock soft enough for a decent ride it starts to show the poor handling from the bad geometry created by the lift. This is maybe why tuned shocks have such a big improvement.
I insert myself in this discussion because I think my needs are more the direction that Dave is going. He is trying to improve on road performance at the same time as offroad performance is improved. Its a delicate balance. Not everyone is looking for the ultimate rock crawler. Not everyone needs a midarm. Its good to have two different options for 2 different buyers and sets of needs. Due to lack of welding skills, I may never be able to install a set of Daves brackets, but I am glad he is out there looking for different ways to improve our Jeeps.
This is exactly what I'm planning to do when I switch over to 4" coils; add the geo correction bracket and the Savvy tuned shocks. I will then work with the rig and decide what, if anything, I want to do with the front. What I'm trying to do is improve the AS, get the rear wheel traveling up and down rather than arc so I can center it in the wheel well and clear the GTS, and get a better overall ride, especially onroad, but also to a degree offroad. Any changes to the front later will be directed primarily toward offroad improvement, which is what I think the front midarm helps with, including in the climb challenge between jjvw and starkey.
 
This is exactly what I'm planning to do when I switch over to 4" coils; add the geo correction bracket and the Savvy tuned shocks. I will then work with the rig and decide what, if anything, I want to do with the front. What I'm trying to do is improve the AS, get the rear wheel traveling up and down rather than arc so I can center it in the wheel well and clear the GTS, and get a better overall ride, especially onroad, but also to a degree offroad. Any changes to the front later will be directed primarily toward offroad improvement, which is what I think the front midarm helps with, including in the climb challenge between jjvw and starkey.
youre gonna love those savvy foxs. Hands down my favorite. Granted ive only been able to experience a handful of off shelf shocks, I think the savvy foxs are by far the best IMO
 
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youre gonna love those savvy foxs. Hands down my favorite. Granted ive only been able to experience a handful of off shelf shocks, I think the savvy foxs are by far the best IMO
All I've tried are Bilstein 5100's and Rancho 5000X, and so far Bilsten 5100 < Rancho 5000X, so I'm hoping Rancho 5000X < Savvy Valved Fox's 😁
 
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How much taller are the upper brackets compared to the stock brackets with a JKS angled relocation bracket for the TB? I know he mentioned a 1" BL needed to clear the tub and maintain 2" bump extensions, but was curious if I could get away with my 1/2" BL. I already have 2" bumps in the rear for the TB so it doesn't hit the rear cross member.
Daves brackets only require two inch bumpstop extension. The Nth bracket I have need a one inch BL or three inch of bumpstop.
 
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.... Any changes to the front later will be directed primarily toward offroad improvement, which is what I think the front midarm helps with, including in the climb challenge between jjvw and starkey.

How would a parallel 3 link front prevent the rear from hopping?
 
A "longer arm" that also has good geometry is going to climb with more calmness than a similarly lifted short arm. It will also put more weight on the front end during a climb than a typical long arm kit because the rear doesn't sink under load. All of that translates into improved traction and stability.
I think the importance of the front geometry isn’t to be diminished. I wonder why you changed your mind from this post to now.
 
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I think the importance of the front geometry isn’t to be diminished.
@JMT can explain how a front 3 link makes the rear not hop. I won't bother with any of it because I'm not a scientist nor am I am engineer. 😂
 
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Better geometry in the front, no doubt plays a role. How much of a role in wheel hop? I have no idea. In the climb itself I would think it does.
 
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