Downsizing and trying not to empty every pocket...

mobile chernobyl

mobile chernobyl

Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2019
Messages
52
Location
Denver, Colorado
Meet my 2000 TJ sport!

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  • 4.0 I6
  • 5MT (NV3550)
  • Dana 30/Dana 35 axles
  • Stock 3.73 gears
  • Almost no rust!
  • 200K miles on the dot when purchased
My goal is to build a Jeep that I can run some of the trails I used to do in my JKU Rubicon that had 35s and a 3" lift. I sold the Rubicon a year ago to get a more 'affordable' truck and do some dirt biking. I love dirtbiking but I also miss 4x4'ing and the fun social aspect of it. The truck has shown me that if you leave something stock it's very dependable and tame to drive on the road... but that's no fun! So I bought this jeep recently during the cold months here in Colorado for a relatively good deal (Just under $6k).

As a new user I've been diligently reading this forum in lieu of some of the other wrangler forums because I love the comradery in the TJ tribe!

I have a few questions and I'll start by explaining my goals:
  • I want to run trails that will be rated a 4 and maybe 4.5 in the 'Colorado Difficulty Rating' (see link below for what that means if out of state)
  • I want to run trails that will be 6 to 7 and maybe 7 to 8 in the 'Utah Difficulty Rating' (see link below for what that means if out state)
    • Poison Spider, Gold Bar Rim, Golden Spike, Metal Masher, Hells Revenge, and probably a few others I'm forgetting are ones I like to hit up with my buddies in their fancy new rigs (JKs and JLs mainly).
    • For the sake of this list - the Utah trail ratings guide - https://www.rr4w.com/ratings.cfm
  • I won't be daily driving this vehicle - but I will be driving it 1-2 times a week... definitely to pick up groceries because who wouldn't want to drive their jeep to do that?
  • I sold my JK after following the typical J.E.E.P. mantra and I'd like to build this TJ up on a relatively controlled budget - but maximize it's ability to drive off road while not looking like a monster truck. If I can get away with stock stuff (i.e. axles) I'd like to do that for sure.
  • My last jeep doing some crack:
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Proposed modifications (high level):
  • I have a set of the JK moab 17" wheels ($100 for 5 !) - my goal is to buy a used set of the JL rubicon tires (285/70R17) come up on craigslist (goal is sub $500 total for 33" wheelset).
  • I'm pretty much sold on doing a full Savvy/Currie johny joint setup (including the weld on front axle UCA mounts)
  • I'll be on the hunt for the NP241J t-case - I have a seller here in Colorado I'm working on a deal with
  • I want to only do as much as I need to accomplish my trail goals
Questions:
  1. Given that I have done all the trails already on a JKUR with 35s - Can I expect to run the same trails with the smaller TJ on 33's? I'm not too familiar with how much benefit in terms of breakover approach/departure angles I'll have by wheeling a smaller vehicle now - my hope is that I can scale just about everything including tires down and go 4x4'ing for less $$
  2. Can I get away with the Dana 30/Dana 35 I have and go the 'super' route - i.e. just throw in larger CroMo shafts with beefier (locking) carriers while on 33-34 size tires? I will not go to 35 if I don't have to - my goal is to stay in the 33-34 metric size equivalent range... I don't care about aesthetics when it comes to tire size.
  3. Will a full Johny Joint 3 inch lift plus 1" body lift be a good way to go to get the most articulation for the $$? Sub $3000 for a lift is my goal - and I like the 'low(er) center of gravity' concept with the 3+1 lift concept. I'm not opposed to the currie 4" kit - I've just been working on piecing together my own kit with Savvy control arms.
  4. For those that drive higher speed highways (75mph) on 33in tires - is the 4.56 gear ratio the best bet?
  5. With the manual NV3550 - is the NP241j a must-have? I will stick with the 5MT - I loved wheeling with the 6MT in my JK - but I also loved its 4:1 t-case!
  6. Can I go wheeling already?

Awesome forum - gotta say thanks in advance to everyone - this is a great place for information and tons of people with professional attitudes!
 
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A 4" suspension lift with 33s is pretty darn capable. I ran that combo for a few years and went everywhere the guys on 35s did. If I was starting over, Id begin with the zone 4.25 combo lift and tummy tuck. It allows you to build off that platform and is affordable at $450 or so.

Ive yet to see a documented super35 break. I wouldnt even think twice about getting it if I had a Dana 35.

Your articulation will depend on your shock lengths and your bumpstops. Cycle your suspension early and learn what to look for. This is a step that gets skipped more often than not and really defines what a quality build is.

With the steep passes thruout CO I would go a step deeper in gearing. 4.88 with 33s. Just my preference though.

Theres an active CO group on wrangler forum. We should get one started here though...

This was 4", a 1.25" BL, and 33s back in April on the Rock pile @ Chinaman Gulch

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What is the reason to put in the 241? A 231 can be modded to be more than adequate strength wise if that is what you are after.
 
tworley said:
A 4" suspension lift with 33s is pretty darn capable. I ran that combo for a few years and went everywhere the guys on 35s did. If I was starting over, Id begin with the zone 4.25 combo lift and tummy tuck. It allows you to build off that platform and is affordable at $450 or so.

Ive yet to see a documented super35 break. I wouldnt even think twice about getting it if I had a Dana 35.

Your articulation will depend on your shock lengths and your bumpstops. Cycle your suspension early and learn what to look for. This is a step that gets skipped more often than not and really defines what a quality build is.

With the steep passes thruout CO I would go a step deeper in gearing. 4.88 with 33s. Just my preference though.

Theres an active CO group on wrangler forum. We should get one started here though...

This was 4", a 1.25" BL, and 33s back in April on the Rock pile @ Chinaman Gulch
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response tworley - Saw your build thread and it looks like we ran a lot of the same trails here in CO! I would love to go wheeling with you guys when this TJ is a little more built.

Nice to hear about the super35 confidence - I plan on most likely just leaving both F&R axles as is - gusseting them a bit around control arm mounts as needed and throwing in the higher spline count axles and lockers when the time and $$ permits!

I do plan on doing the tummy tuck - I'd like to have the 241 in place beforehand so I can set it and forget it.

I'm going fully adjustable johny joints on all 16 pivot points (front UCA axle side currie kit as well) - so hopefully I can squeeze every bit of articulation possible out of this while keeping a low center of gravity... if it means some fender/quarter panel trimming so be it!

Would you still go 4.88 with the 4:1 in the 241j? I was thinking the same actually - I've just read some people find the higher revs on the highway to be a nuisance... but I don't plan on driving this vehicle very fast haha

And I guess last question - would you go full 4" spring + 1" BL with 33/34 tires? I don't want to do it twice so I'd rather just do it right off the bat haha.

Blackjack said:
What is the reason to put in the 241? A 231 can be modded to be more than adequate strength wise if that is what you are after.
Click to expand...

My main inclination for the 241 vs 231 is the 4:1 gears... I guess coming off my JKUR with the 4:1 t-case, 4.10 gears and 6MT - I got used to that crawl ratio and not having to beat on my clutch too much for the trails out here in Colorado (consistently steep at times!) I'll end up with a 73.1:1 (4.56 gears) or 78.3:1 (4.88) gears if I go with the 241j.

If I stick with the 231j the lowest crawl ratio I can achieve with 4.88 gears is 53.2:1 - which isn't too bad - it's a little better than the the JKU non rubicon model and 3.73 gears I believe (about 45:1) . I had a buddy with that setup and he did well without a regear but tons of stalling (we're manual masochists...). Right now with my 231j and 3.73 gears I'll be looking at a 40:1 ratio... a lot of numbers... being an engineer I think about them a lot - probably too much at times haha.
 
4.88 with the 5 speed manual and 35's are perfect. I can easily cruise around 70-75mph on the freeway. With the 4.88 my 231 transfer case can crawl up pretty much everything I point at with zero input from the gas or clutch. That said I would love to put a 241 under mine so I can crawl even slower up rocks and have a bit more control.

Looks like you have a fun project in front of you and seems like your going down a great path with the parts you have chosen.
 
mobile chernobyl said:
Would you still go 4.88 with the 4:1 in the 241j? I was thinking the same actually - I've just read some people find the higher revs on the highway to be a nuisance... but I don't plan on driving this vehicle very fast haha

And I guess last question - would you go full 4" spring + 1" BL with 33/34 tires? I don't want to do it twice so I'd rather just do it right off the bat haha.
Click to expand...

I suppose that small jump would be personal preference. The power to crawl would be awesome with 4.88s, 241 and 33s.

If you really are sticking with 33s, the nice thing about the zone 4.25 combo is that you can keep your stock control arms, as well as the slip yoke. Once you get into a tummy tuck things change (ie, arms) but you would have better angles at your pinon with 3" springs and a body lift. Plus the 241 is huge compared to a 231, at 4" your driveshaft is really steep and you are essentially limited on the amount of travel you have in the rear.
 
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