DrDmoney’s 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport
- Thread starter DrDmoney
- Start date
OP
I used two pieces of flat bar to take the place of the compressed shocks (16” eye to eye) I tacked a bar pin to the top and bolted it to the upper mount and drilled the bottom and bolted to the lower shock mount, then I took a measurement from the front and the back of the perch and averaged the two and came up with 8 inches (I should have just used the shorter dimension) I cut two pieces of 4 inch PVC pipe to 8 inches in length on my miter saw, I set those on the lower perches and put the upper perches on top and raised the rear end back up to where the flat bar held it at compressed length and that is what set my perch to height and square to the lower one.
OP
Flipped the tie rod after work today, it’s amazing how much bang you get for your buck, and since @Alex01 gave me the bushing it was practically free.
OP
I was able to relocate the links where they clear everything and cut the old ones off. Thanks again!
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OP
Tie rod flip complete, new RockJock front trac bar complete, centered front axle complete, moved/new sway bar links complete, lubed everything, garage wheel alignment complete (No pics), made rear bump shims complete, new front axle side bushings complete, now we just need the forest to open up, (not likely).
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It’s really awesome how much more clearance flipping the tie rod gives.
OP
There is more clearance at the diff cover when cycled. The RE bar had a little more droop but the heim was getting a little crusty. the RJ bar, with my lift was already part way into its travel down at ride height, a little friendly massage on the HF press fixed it. Finally broke down and bought a spring compressor too.
OP
It’s a huge Improvement and somewhat simple to do. I thought about it a long time ago using RHD components, but never sourced the parts to do it plus it adds more separation from the track bar on the axle side, then came the CE CurrectLink and I never thought about just flipping the one side.
OP
This is where the old RE bar would touch, the RJ bar has an offset that gives it more clearance.
This is the bend I added to give me a little more droop.
OP
Thanks to @Plumber1 taunting me with his York’s pressure and @Alex01 pushing me over the edge with his latest round of mods, I installed the ORO York Mini today. Another COVID-19 cancelled vacation left me with funds to spare so I spent it on the Jeep because...why not?
After initial demo; remove air box, remove belt, remove tensioner, remove alternator, and mounting bracket, I dry fit the bracket after chasing all the holes with a tap to make sure all the fasteners and spacers would work. The bracket hit on the front of the block not allowing it to mate flush.
I took the die grinder to it and removed a small amount of the bracket
then I hit it with some cold galvanize paint.
I bolted the bracket using the top four 3/8” holes where the plate mounts flush to the block, then I checked the two lower bolts that require the spacers. The short spacer was a perfect fit so I bolted it in using the supplied 10 mm bolts, the long spacer needed 3/32” cut off for a perfect fit. I bolted it up and torqued all six fasteners.
My alternator is a 200 amp unit that has a slightly larger case and it had an unused ear that I had to cut off. Also the AC hoses need to be bent a little to clear, one a little forward of the compressor and the other behind it.
I bolted the pulleys, compressor, and installed the new belt.
I put the air box back in and started it up to check the belt tension and pulley clearances. Then I filled the compressor with oil mid way in the sight glass using the supplied syringe and air line. The air box made it a little tight to put the airline in the fill hole but I used a small box wrench to guide the line in.
I’ll be plumbing and wiring it next week.
After initial demo; remove air box, remove belt, remove tensioner, remove alternator, and mounting bracket, I dry fit the bracket after chasing all the holes with a tap to make sure all the fasteners and spacers would work. The bracket hit on the front of the block not allowing it to mate flush.
I took the die grinder to it and removed a small amount of the bracket
then I hit it with some cold galvanize paint.
I bolted the bracket using the top four 3/8” holes where the plate mounts flush to the block, then I checked the two lower bolts that require the spacers. The short spacer was a perfect fit so I bolted it in using the supplied 10 mm bolts, the long spacer needed 3/32” cut off for a perfect fit. I bolted it up and torqued all six fasteners.
My alternator is a 200 amp unit that has a slightly larger case and it had an unused ear that I had to cut off. Also the AC hoses need to be bent a little to clear, one a little forward of the compressor and the other behind it.
I bolted the pulleys, compressor, and installed the new belt.
I put the air box back in and started it up to check the belt tension and pulley clearances. Then I filled the compressor with oil mid way in the sight glass using the supplied syringe and air line. The air box made it a little tight to put the airline in the fill hole but I used a small box wrench to guide the line in.
I’ll be plumbing and wiring it next week.
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OP
I’ll be keeping the ARB twin to run the lockers but this will be my go to for all other air needs.
I look forward to reading what you think of they new compressor from ORO. I bought one but it'll be a while before mine s up and running so your shakedown of it will be nice to read about. I think I have one of the very FEW Dodge magnum V-8 bracket kits that Kilby made years ago.
As I wrote in Alex's thread I've burnt up a compressor before when I cut a air bag and my compressor was running for 3-5 minutes I'd guess. Steve from ORO helped me rebuild it but it never really worked right after that. I think this is my number 3 or 4 compressor now. Another member has one also and he'd mentioned he was getting some oil in his lines which this new one isn't suppose to do.
OP
I wonder if that’s why the kit didn’t come with an oil separator/filter or at least mine didn’t. I was very pleased to get a hand written check from ORO for $89.00 in with the instructions, not sure what it was for as there was no explanation. I plan on calling them tomorrow to ask about it and the filter. Overall I’m very happy with the quality and fit in general, I have read that the spacers and the bolts at the bottom of the bracket are an issue but on mine all the hardware worked with exception of the large spacer and the bracket touching the block requiring minimal grinding.
You didn't get a filter like this in the kit?
When I talked with Steve this summer he told me I wouldn't need all the filters I use to run but I thought you still needed this one.
Be interesting to hear what they have to say and what they'll tell you.
OP
I'll have to go back and try to find the email he sent me about this new compressor. I'm going to mount a air tank as it says I need one for the AiRock. I guess if you don't have the AiRock you don't need the filter anymore?
Look forward to see how it works for you and hopefully it is everything they claim it is and you don't have oil being spit out.
Look forward to see how it works for you and hopefully it is everything they claim it is and you don't have oil being spit out.
OP
Finished the York install, I finally decided that I did not want to run the switch to the dash or the air coupler to the grill (only took a month to make my mind up). I’m just going to keep it simple and mount it under the hood with the winch control pack. I don’t mind popping the hood to air up and I already do that to power down the winch remote. If the hose gets too hot I might run the braided hose to a remote coupler but for now I’ll try it this way.
