Drop pitman and crossover steering?

The drag link is different between TJ and ZJ. The OD is the same, the pitman arm's tierod end are the same, but they are bent differently... The TJ one fits much better.
Please a bit more detail. The ZJ tie rod I got for my TJ was significantly thicker and heavier. The rod ends also were much larger threaded ends. The taper shaft was the same so that everything bolted right up. The drag link has been often cited as being the same for the TJ and ZJ upgrade. I ordered the ZJ parts and got the same thing that I replaced the original drag link with. I matched everything up side by side to rough set the draglink and tie rod lengths before installing the ZJ parts.
If I'm in error of the draglink being the same please let me know how so I can better relay information. Thanks.👍
 
The best bolt on steering you can get is from Currie/Rock Jock. Then you can flip the tie rod for a high steer setup.
The PO installed the Off-Road Only U Turn on my TJR. I've messed around with it (new and bigger TREs and less toe) but could not get rid of the dead spot. As I made these adjustments, "road steering" became worse.

A new Currie Currectlync should be arriving next week (I'm taking the collective advice of the forum). I'm anxious to see what it does.

Can you elaborate on "flip the tie rod for a high steer setup"? I'd like to do that and maybe it will be obvious once it gets here but right now I'm not understanding how that works.

Thanks.
 
Can you elaborate on "flip the tie rod for a high steer setup"? I'd like to do that and maybe it will be obvious once it gets here but right now I'm not understanding how that works.
Basically moving the tie rod's mounting point from under the knuckle to on top of the knuckle. A little work is involved but not a great deal. It gives the tie rid a little more ground clearance. I planned to do that years ago but it slipped my mind. Which I'm finding is getting easier and easier to do.
 
Basically moving the tie rod's mounting point from under the knuckle to on top of the knuckle. A little work is involved but not a great deal. It gives the tie rid a little more ground clearance. I planned to do that years ago but it slipped my mind. Which I'm finding is getting easier and easier to do.
One of us is sure slipping. I distinctly remember doing it to one of your rigs.
 
The PO installed the Off-Road Only U Turn on my TJR. I've messed around with it (new and bigger TREs and less toe) but could not get rid of the dead spot. As I made these adjustments, "road steering" became worse.

A new Currie Currectlync should be arriving next week (I'm taking the collective advice of the forum). I'm anxious to see what it does.

Can you elaborate on "flip the tie rod for a high steer setup"? I'd like to do that and maybe it will be obvious once it gets here but right now I'm not understanding how that works.

Thanks.
There is a gent on FB recommending the ORO so strongly that I'm not convinced he isn't a shill for ORO. Perfect road steering, great steering feel, doesn't get any more awesome.
 
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There is a gent on FB recommending the ORO so strongly that I'm not convinced he isn't a shill for ORO. Perfect road steering, great steering feel, doesn't get any more awesome.
I bought my used '04 in '09 so I've had it for 11 years. It was highly modified so I didn't really want it but the price was right. It's taken me awhile to learn what needed to be undone/redone because I don't have any other reference points. The forum has been invaluable.

Anyway, I've driven the ORO for 11 years. I'll definitely post up my impressions of the difference.
 
Please a bit more detail. The ZJ tie rod I got for my TJ was significantly thicker and heavier. The rod ends also were much larger threaded ends. The taper shaft was the same so that everything bolted right up. The drag link has been often cited as being the same for the TJ and ZJ upgrade. I ordered the ZJ parts and got the same thing that I replaced the original drag link with. I matched everything up side by side to rough set the draglink and tie rod lengths before installing the ZJ parts.
If I'm in error of the draglink being the same please let me know how so I can better relay information. Thanks.👍

The draglink is essentially the same as far as strength but the V8 ZJ tierod is much thicker and is a great upgrade
 
Do you sell the tapered reamers or have one you recommend? Or do you need to drill it out and install a tapered bushing?
Tapered reamer won't work to flip the stock hole. I drill them straight to .750, ream them to .755, counterbore a shoulder seat, press in a straight bushing with a shoulder on it and then fusion Tig around the insert. I don't sell that bushing, I just have them made for my own uses. On the second batch of 100 now.
 
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Tapered reamer won't work to flip the stock hole. I drill them straight to .750, ream them to .755, counterbore a shoulder seat, press in a straight bushing with a shoulder on it and then fusion Tig around the insert. I don't sell that bushing, I just have them made for my own uses. On the second batch of 100 now.
Do the RCV friendly knuckles have the high steer already done?
 
Do the RCV friendly knuckles have the high steer already done?
It isn't high steer. It is the left side knuckle steering arm with the taper flipped so the tie rod is on top. No, they are not done. I order a quantity of each kit with a 1/2" straight hole so I can ream them from either side. If you want a flip, I ream it from the top for you. If I run out of normal knuckles before the next order shows up and I have some of the straight ones on the shelf, I ream them from the bottom to match the other side. All of the knuckles are RCV friendly and have the machining done.
 
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So curiosity has gotten the best of me. Am I understanding correctly that the reason no one on this forum likes crossover steering is it causes a sort of dead spot in the steering? Isn't it effectively the same system the JK JL JT uses?
It seems like a good opportunity to make a custom front trackbar the exact same length as the draglink and eliminate all bump steer.

There is nothing wrong with my Y-link steering on my TJ, this is just curiosity
 
So curiosity has gotten the best of me. Am I understanding correctly that the reason no one on this forum likes crossover steering is it causes a sort of dead spot in the steering? Isn't it effectively the same system the JK JL JT uses?
It seems like a good opportunity to make a custom front trackbar the exact same length as the draglink and eliminate all bump steer.

There is nothing wrong with my Y-link steering on my TJ, this is just curiosity
Tie-rod roll or heim flop creates that dead spot that makes steering systems like that poor for our knuckles. Jk and JL run different knuckles.
 
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